Pictures of D2 with Patina...?

[pertinux]

Inspired by Frank's pictures of his Queen (and because nothing makes him happier than discussions of patina ):

I've read here that D2 has some ability to form patina, yet don't recall seeing any pictures.

A search revealed this old thread which discusses D2 patina and pitting, but without images.

If any of you have pictures of "used" D2 that evinces changes in appearance, or a link to a thread with pictures of the same, please post away.

Thanks!

~ P.

 

[knarfeng]

Inspired by Frank's pictures of his Queen
~ P.

A minor correction:
This is my knife...

[/URL]


This is my Queen...

 

[markksr]

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

There was a thread in the Maint forum a while back, featuring a non-traditional D2-bladed knife (Benchmade) with a vinegar/mustard forced & patterned patina. Not as a result of use, however. I'll link it here if you're interested in seeing it, but I don't know if that's what you're looking for (let me know, Sarah; I'll add the link to this post if you'd like to see it). Don't recall if I've seen any pics of 'natural' patina on D2 blades. I'd think more harsh/aggressive 'use' would be necessary (acids/chemicals/etc) to significantly alter the color of D2, in most cases.

One thing that will affect how easily it may happen is the finish on the blade. Queen's D2 blades are polished to a pretty high degree, and that'll slow the formation of noticeable patina on any steel.


David

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

There's a couple pics of a Queen canoe with a forced patina in this thread (pertinent post is quoted in the box below):

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Have-you-ever-had-a-problem-with-D2-staining?

D2 will patina, but the process is slower due to the higher chromium content. This Queen Canoe has a forced patina. I sanded the blade before doing it, and when I did there was a very slight patina from previous use that was being removed. I imagine it would take quite a bit of normal use before being really noticeable.

I never considered it to be a problem, though. No issues with rust in my experience either.

David

 

[shrapne1]

oooh, thanks P for making this thread; i've had the same though lingering in my mind but never had the courage to ask it!
Its kind of weird, because i praise D2 highly, yet ive never had the pleasure of owning a D2 knife; i really want to get one sometime.

I really love the grind on that canoe, not to mention the attractive contrast between shiney and dark.

 

[pertinux]

A minor correction:

Point taken!

There was a thread in the Maint forum a while back, featuring a non-traditional D2-bladed knife (Benchmade) with a vinegar/mustard forced & patterned patina. Not as a result of use, however. I'll link it here if you're interested in seeing it, but I don't know if that's what you're looking for (let me know, Sarah; I'll add the link to this post if you'd like to see it).

Thanks for the thought, may it perish p ). It's traditional knives I'm after, and the evidence of use on D2 blades in the same. Still, I appreciate your locating the link just in case.

(Just so you know, I'm laughing at myself as I write this, contemplating "Benchmade"-- and dismissing it even though I know the steel is the same and the evidence might be helpful! Idiosyncratic, I. )

Besides, the post you've found and linked next is more to the point (below).

In the meantime, this image is the most helpful so far:

Thanks, Mark!

One thing that will affect how easily it may happen is the finish on the blade. Queen's D2 blades are polished to a pretty high degree, and that'll slow the formation of noticeable patina on any steel.

Hmmm.... So, satin-finished D2 blades would more readily incur/evince change? This makes sense.

There's a couple pics of a Queen canoe with a forced patina in this thread (pertinent post is quoted in the box below):

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Have-you-ever-had-a-problem-with-D2-staining?

D2 will patina, but the process is slower due to the higher chromium content. This Queen Canoe has a forced patina. I sanded the blade before doing it, and when I did there was a very slight patina from previous use that was being removed. I imagine it would take quite a bit of normal use before being really noticeable.

I never considered it to be a problem, though. No issues with rust in my experience either.

That looks great! Thanks.

I've been reading about the virtues of D2 in edge retention (a plus once there's an acceptable edge to retain!) and durability. However, I'm also aware that I am far more attached to my 1095 and O1 knives than the stainless ones; I'm of those who welcome patina and evidence of use.

D2 is often mentioned as "not stainless, able to form patina," etc., but I want to better understand what that means.

Hence, my wondering about how D2 does and does not visibly "age" over time, especially as a result of regular use and non-heroic measures (forced patinas and the like, although the canoe above looks "organic").


Thanks, guys.

~ P.

 

[knarfeng]

D2 is often mentioned as "not stainless, able to form patina," etc., but I want to better understand what that means.

To me it mostly means that if one wants a "patina" on a D2 knife, one is going to have to work at it. (e.g. dip in hot vinegar as opposed to cutting an apple.) Without aggressive treatment, I don't think you are going to get a patina. I have some D2 blades that have a few dark spots on them, because I don't oil them. None with an even dark haze.

The minimum chromium content necessary to be called "stainless" is 12%. The AISI specification for D2 calls for a chromium content of 11-13%, which makes the nominal content 12%. So D2 is actually "stainless", but just as its chromium content is at the bottom end of the stainless range, so too is its "stainlessness", more properly termed, "corrosion resistance". The low chromium content is exacerbated by the high carbon content. Some of the carbon reacts with some of the chromium to form chromium carbides (just as some of the carbon reacts with the Vanadium to form vanadium carbides). Chromium that is in the form of chromium carbide does not contribute to corrosion resistance.

 

[markksr]

...
Thanks, Mark!
...

You are very welcome.
I don't "talk" much, but I'm always happy to take a new picture.

I was the second owner of that knife and it *might* have had some patina when I got it. I stuck it in a potato overnight and it darkened up quite a bit.

Also, there are other theads about D2 and patina in which I have posted other shots of that knife as well as another Queen Congress which was also very well patinaed. Unfortunately, I no longer have that one.

Ah-ha! I still have one picture of the Congress...

 

[FLymon]

Here is my Queen Canoe, I etched this one with ferric chloride.
Before etching the blades were in original condition. Very well finished and smooth.

After etching the steel took on a look and feel that was kind of surprising. When I etch 1095, or Case CV I get a uniform finish that remains pretty smooth to the touch, just darker. The D2 formed "scars" all over the blades. These grooves were certainly not present before etching.

 

[Thomason]

Here is a saddle horn with an etched D2 blade, made by Gene Wiseman.

 

[Will Power]

You are very welcome.
I don't "talk" much, but I'm always happy to take a new picture.

I was the second owner of that knife and it *might* have had some patina when I got it. I stuck it in a potato overnight and it darkened up quite a bit.

Also, there are other theads about D2 and patina in which I have posted other shots of that knife as well as another Queen Congress which was also very well patinaed. Unfortunately, I no longer have that one.

Ah-ha! I still have one picture of the Congress...

That Congress must've seen a lot of use to get that colour! The handles on that WCSB of the knives have also aged very nicely too.

D2 will patina but you've really got to 'work' on it in my view (probably adding to it) to get it like that. If you wipe it down after use, some spotting may appear after a while. So you could say it offers the best of both worlds: it will patina if you work on it but it won't if you don't want it to. Plus it can really keep cutting a long time, that's the real beauty

Regards, Will

 

[MarkPinTx]

I don't consider D2 to acquire a real patina. It just gets dull looking, not much character and it doesn't change.

That etch above is really cool! You are seeing the crystal structure of D2 right there! I'm surprised its that coarse, especially at the surface. That grainy looking stuff is the carbide that makes D2 so hard to sharpen (and makes it wear well). One might think that a finer grain would be necessary for a knife steel.

 

[quattromori]

My experience with D2 is very recent (the last few months with my CSC pinch lockback), and I'm quite interested in this topic. At first, I thought it wouldn't take any patina with "normal" use, but after one or two afternoons of intensive vegetable/fruit cutting away from home, the shadow of a patina has started to appear, and I have to say that it does look fine (and it matches the chestnut scales quite well).
I'm thinking about trying to force the process a little bit, and see how it goes. From what I've seen so far, I have to agree with Will's thought

Fausto

 

[black mamba]

My most carried Queen #06L teardrop has just gotten slightly grayer over time.

 

[MT Damascus]

I like the D2 in my CSC Pinch, it has a slight patina. I prefer CPM D2, when available.



Kris

 

[puukkoman]

I have several D2 knives, and my experience is similar. The more finely-polished the surface is, the less it takes any noticeable patina. My Queen Mountain Man has a little bit of color in places, while my 2009 BFC barlow has very little. Both knives have seen similar use, and are of comparable age. On a Queen canoe that I used to own, I used sandpaper to fully convex the main blade, and afterward it took a pretty even food-based patina. Still took way longer than 1095, though.
Now that I think about it, this Mountain Man's blade has had the sandpaper-convex-treatment as well, which may be why its surface will now show some color (the factory polish is gone).

 

[Fanglekai]

I have a mini trapper I've carried quite a bit over the past two years. The clip blade has a patina because I forced it by cutting limes and letting the juice sit on the blade. It took some effort to get it to patina. The secondary blade has a couple spots but that's it. I've never oiled the blades, only wiped them off after use. D2 will take a dark even patina but you have to force it. The clip blade had virtually no patina after a year of carry. I can post a picture later but it looks similar to the other patinas shown here. D2 doesn't patina much over time. I have a Queen fixed blade I got probably a year and a half ago that has seen little use, never been oiled, and is stored in its leather sheath. The finish still looks perfect, no corrosion, no patina.

 

[greg c]

Here's a pic from another thread I started. The ivory knife has Queen's D2- it started to gray after cutting some limes. I let the juice sit a while as I enjoy the patina color more than the bare white steel.

 

[Will Power]

My most carried Queen #06L teardrop has just gotten slightly grayer over time.

Always good to see that one Jeff! One of my favourite knives and I'd be horrified if it got lost.... Mine has lost its blade etch, more or less, and become greyer with age (like most of us ) I'd buy another if they chance presented itself.:thumbup:

Thanks, Will