Pimped my Manix 2...and damaged it

[elkins45]

So I have three of these: a PE, a SE and the CF S90V version. THe CF is much lighter, partially owing to the skeletonized frame. I decided I would skeletonize my serrated G-10 model to get some of the same benefit. I disassembled it and drilled the liners: see below

Great so far, but when I was putting it back together I must have canted the thong hole tube and shaved off a little of the G-10 because now the end of the knife is loose on the thong hole. That tube is only held in place by friction, so once the tight fit is disturbed then the end of the knife really doesn't have much to hold it together. I can feel it move when I squeeze it.

It's probably not a big deal, but it definitely has changed the feel of the knife. I think I'll fix it by buying some really long 2-56 screws and run them through the clip mounting holes into the corresponding holes on the opposite side. Or I suppose I could epoxy it.

Anyway, let this be a warning to you. Be careful if you decide to take your Manix 2 apart. That thong tube fitting won't take much misalignment.

 

[orthogonal1]

Don't like the long bolt idea.

I take it the thong tube is stepped. Why not use a tube belling tool to bell the ends of the thong tube a bit?

 

[Haze]

You could make a CF back spacer of some sort that would take the lanyard tube and use longer clip screws to secure it.

 

[wally@ferguson]

Go to your local hobby shop and buy some SS tubing (alum if SS not available) cut to correct length and use centre punch or something similar to flare the ends. Removed the clip and screws from my Caly3 and made a lanyard tube using brass tubing.

 

[elkins45]

Don't like the long bolt idea.

I take it the thong tube is stepped. Why not use a tube belling tool to bell the ends of the thong tube a bit?

Yes, it is stepped. I thought about using a pipe flaring tool, but I want to try the screws first because they are 100% removable without damage. A screw up with the flaring tool could actually make things worse.

 

[orthogonal1]

I suspect the long bolts will require a spacer beyond the thong tube as Haze implied.

 

[FlaMtnBkr]

I can't sleep and was just checking mine out. The tube on mine has an almost matte (sp?) finish on the inside except the very end on both sides is shiny.

I would be willing to bet they are assembled as described above and once everything is where it should be a light tap on a tapered punch or something similar to just snug things up. I bet it takes suprisingly little force to hold it in place.

Just thought I would add my aggrement to the purposed method with my observation of the tube. Good luck!

 

[jylong_away]

I actually used the same 'fix' for my CF Manix 2. Lanyard hole is also loose.

The Long screws will work. I used a set of 2-56 scale screws from an old Kershaw Mini Cyclone. Only thing I've been worried about is sheer stress on the relatively thin screws. The other problem is that the screw head will only clamp on to the CF/G10 scale from one side, and it's the scale that is press fit onto the lanyard tube, not the metal liners.

My solution? Tiny backspacers! Have ordered some 'generic' prethreaded backspacers from knifeknits.com, and will fit one between a pair of clip-screw holes. That way, the CF scale will be 'clamped' down by a screw from each side, and the girth of the spacer will help to take up the shear stress, and give some additional rigidity.

Have measured, and a .156" backspacer should fit perfectly. Hope it works!

 

[bearcut]

So I have three of these: a PE, a SE and the CF S90V version. THe CF is much lighter, partially owing to the skeletonized frame. I decided I would skeletonize my serrated G-10 model to get some of the same benefit. I disassembled it and drilled the liners: see below

.

How much weight did you save?

I've been thinking about drilling out a Fallkniven folder.
I would like to pare at least an ounce.

 

[elkins45]

How much weight did you save?

I've been thinking about drilling out a Fallkniven folder.
I would like to pare at least an ounce.

I didn't weigh it before/after (I don't have a scale that sensitive anyway) but the difference is noticeable. It might be an ounce.

 

[riz_aaroni]

I didn't weigh it before/after (I don't have a scale that sensitive anyway) but the difference is noticeable. It might be an ounce.

Probably cut the weight by nearly half, though not sure if it had any holes before.

 

[cmott69]

did you leave any burr on the drill holes?
might be burr holding the scales out of place.

 

[dsmegst]

Probably cut the weight by nearly half, though not sure if it had any holes before.

I've done similar work on a different knife and it saved maybe 1/2 oz. It wasn't as much as I expected or desired but it made a noticeable difference.

Damn things are hard to drill, that's for sure.