Pin Peening Tutorial?

A

AlaskanHunter

Joined
Nov 23, 2013
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Bill DeShivs, in this thread you offered to share your knowledge on how to peen knife handle pins: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1362256-To-Peen-Or-Not-To-Peen-That-s-The-Question
Is it too late to take you up on that offer?
Specifically, I would like to know if, when, and how it may apply to kitchen knife handles. The set in question will be unstabilized black-and-english walnut graft that is a bit burled (Is this already a bad idea? :confused:) on AEB-L stainless. Since they haven't shipped out to heat-treat yet, I've got a bit of time before actually tackling the project.

Thanks,
Keenan
 
I'll try to help.
What size pins are you planning on using?
What pin material?
Are you planning on using heads on the rivets, or finishing them flush?
 
Hey, Bill, I find your "doing" threads great. They are clear and simple. Please do this one two.
Frank
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I'll try to help.
What size pins are you planning on using?
What pin material?
Are you planning on using heads on the rivets, or finishing them flush?
Click to expand...

Current plan is to use 1/8 brass rod for the pins, but I'm open to suggestions for a better size or material. I'm also planning on finishing them flush, unless there is a good reason to do them differently.
I would also be interested in general information on peening. Does one peen differently based on pin material, handle material, or tang type?

P.S. Thanks for the great info on buffers in your other thread!
 
i4Marc said:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1135046-Is-peening-the-handle-pins-necessary

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1141791-Hammers-pins-and-peening


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZjWkcHfYuE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mzIKuWkMaw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULWxdqEZqDg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0A_63OwdVM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YRZjM7ZqAM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQwcTroKL2U
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links, but it will take me quite a while to watch them all. Internet in my part of Alaska is sold by the megabyte, and videos use up my monthly plan incredibly fast. Not to mention that it takes 30 minutes to load a 5 minute video. Kinda stinks, there are a lot of great makers that put up video tutorials. I wish it were easier to watch them.
 
I generally use a 1.5 ounce cutlers hammer. This hammer has a flat head and a cross-peen head. 95% of the time I use the flat head.

When peening, you are not trying to swell the shank of the pin. You only want to distort the end into "heads." It doesn't take much of a head to securely hold parts together.
Use pin stock that fits the holes. Too small will bend-causing all kind of problems. If your pin stock is too large, you can chuck it into a drill and file it to the proper diameter.

If you are flush peening, you countersink your pin holes slightly, then peen your pins with light taps to fill these countersunk divots. You then file/sand/polish the excess pin head off. Flush peening should only be done toward the very end of the finishing process, as it's easy to grind the rest of the head away.

To peen a rivet, cut the wire to slightly longer than it needs to be. File the ends square. Place rivet into handle, and place handle on anvil. Tap the rivet squarely a couple of times using wrist action only. Let the hammer do the work with only a slight assist from you. Then, turn the work over on the anvil and give the other side a couple of taps. Continue doing this until the pieces snug together.

Hammering too hard swells the rivet further down the shank. This is the main cause of material cracking. Remember-upset the end of the rivet only

Then, start working your way around the pin heads at a slight angle so that the edges of the head move toward the surface if you want a raised head. This is not necessary on "inside" parts like liners-where the head will be filed flush.

Most raised heads on factory cutlery were simply buffed in all directions to smooth the head. Some factories used "spun" rivets. Spun rivets have heads that are formed by using cupped-tip punches in a drill press. Applying pressure to the spinning punch distorts the rivet into the head.

You can simulate spun heads and refine peened heads by using cupped punches. Using a punch that is sized for the rivet head, you simply tap the punch with a hammer to refine the head shape.

Practice on scrap materials and learn finesse with your hammer. Brittle materials require gentle peening. More durable materials can be done with less concern of breakage, but you really should use the same technique regardless of materials.

Larger stock, like 1/8" and 1/4 " can be peened with a larger hammer.
 
Here are my bench hammers. The largest is a 2 oz. head. I seldom use it for riveting.
Also, some home made cup punches in various sizes.
Then a few anvils. One from narrow gauge railroad track, one from mild steel, a custom-made cutlers anvil from D2 steel.
I buy pin stock by the yard!

Well, it seems Photobucket is down. Pics later. Got a couple uploaded.





 
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Bill DeShivs,

This is a little off topic but it made me think.
Since I have gotten into woodworking, quite a while ago now, I started to look at nails both wood and metal and the friction fit ALONE as opposed to say . . . a slip fit pin and peening the ends.

Adavantage ? ? ?
one can take it apart easy with just a press. Can even use the drill press in a pinch to assemble or disassemble.

So . . . finally . . . my point and question : for knives do you ever just press fit pins rather than pean ?

Two examples see photos :

The wood structures have press fit brass pins.

The all metal joint is aluminum solid rod into a cromolly super thin wall tube and a stainless steel pin (there are several in the structure). It is a fairly dynamic structure that can be prone to screws loosening over time. I left the pins long and flat on the ends during testing incase it was an unworkable combination and I had to peen or replace with a tighter fit. So far, with daily use they have all stayed in situ.

Advantage : I can press the pins out to replace components without much fiddle and ultra clean look on finished product.

To be clear I am not asking for advice on that project I am just directing my question to press fit pins in KNIVES specifically and using those as examples to try to get across what the heck I am talking about.

PS: one last example the machine drive chain like on a motorcycle or bicycle; the pins holding all the links together are usually not peened . . . are just press fit pins that can be pressed in or out for repair.





 
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I never use press-fits. I would think they would tend to "walk" on a knife.
 
Thanks Bill, this is great stuff. Subscribed and stalking. I've got my own wacky ways of doing this and really look forward to seeing the right way! Great info here already.
 
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