Pinning copper shield

Sean Yaw

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
Messages
417
Hi. I built a slipjoint a week ago with a copper shield that I pinned with 1/16" copper rod. When the knife was a completed, I could not see the pins (picture 1), but when I took it out today to gift to someone, they are pretty obvious (picture 2). Any idea what my issue is? My guesses are that I have a problem with either my plan (shouldn't pin copper because of differing patina behavior - I don't know if that's a thing), execution (didn't clean enough or something), or materials (I got 1/16" "copper" from AKS and "copper 110" from USA Knife Maker). Any advice for next time would be appreciated. Thank you.

Before.jpg

After.jpg
 
The problem is the pins are a different alloy than the sheet. It all gets called "copper", but the alloying for wire, sheet, and flat stock can vary a lot. Usually, zinc, tin, manganese ... and sometimes silver, are the alloy elements.
What I do with shields and other metal inlays is to braze the pins on the back of the shield (usually after the fitting work is done). Then there are no pins to deal with on the surface.
 
Stacy, Thank you for the reply. I have some more questions: Do you do that for stainless steel inlays too? Do you use the same material pins regardless of the inlay material, since it is not visible? Any tips for getting the pins to line up with the handle holes? It seem trickier than just drilling through both at the same time.
 
I mostly use gold or silver. Occasionally I use nickel silver or bronze. The brazing material is hard silver solder for all of these except gold, on which I use gold solder. I mark the spot on the shield from back through the holes in the scale. If there is any misalignment, I either move a pin, or enlarge/oval a hole.

I used to have a neat little jewelers spot/tack welder that would fusion weld a small object. It was originally used to repaid eyeglasses frames. I got it in a box a free equipment when an optician retired. It was very handy for tasks like welding gold and silver pins and posts on jewelry. I loaned it to a friend who was dying, and wanted to fiddle in his shop. After he died I found he had loaned it to another jeweler. I contacted the other jeweler and she said he had given it to her. I explained it wasn't his to give, but she got really defensive about it being hers. I told her to keep it and hoped she could sleep well knowing she had something that wasn't hers. She called a week later and said she would return it. When I got it I found out she had burned out the transformer, probably trying to weld something too thick or maybe stainless steel. I just sent he a smiley face message saying, "Thanks, works great". The new ones are over a grand now, so I never replaced it. I may try and re-build it someday ... if I can find where I put it.
 
A trick for getting perfect matches on rivet pins is to cut some square strips off the sheet the shield or bolster is made from and make matching metal pins. Round one end by eye and chuck it in a drill or flex-shaft handpiece. Use a needle file and turn it down to fit. I usually turn it with a very slight taper so it really seats tight before peening. It should be invisible when finished.
 
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