Pins and rivets

G

GRapp

Joined
Nov 14, 2022
Messages
197
I have been making the same pattern paring knife for a while now trying to perfect the craft. I've been using rivets because that's what my mother-in-laws favorite knife has and that's what I'm duplicating. I figure if she has several, we can swap dull for sharp when we see each other as I sharpen her knives for her. Anyway, these rivets seem like a pain in buttocks compared to straight pins, which I've yet to attempt. Can you confirm pins are easier than rivets, and equal in quality? When I see pictures of the knives you guys make, I see mostly pins.
Thanks,
Gary
 
Pins are for keeping the scales from shearing off. If the epoxy mounting the handle is still strong, they work. On a kitchen knife used by your MIL it would likely be in the sink and probably run through the dishwasher. This will lift the scales off the pins eventually.
Rivets are much stronger.
Corby Bolts are the strongest type, and once you learn to install them really easy to use.
 
Pins prevent scales from rotating or shifting in relation to the axis of the pin. This keeps the scale matching the profiles of the handle. As Stacy mentions, they are also critical for sheer resistance.

To secure the 2 surfaces (scale and handle) and “bond” them together , makers have several options and many combine them. Glue, peened/deformed heads, bolts, rivets are all options to keep scales attached. Rivets and glue are like wearing a belt and suspenders…your pants aren’t nearly as likely to fly off 😊 but there are many variables here that can’t really be covered “in general”. Testing your design with your materials will yield the best data.
 
Once you get used to riveting, it's really easy.
Most people use a hammer that is much too large, and they try to swell the entire pin.
The correct way is to use a small hammer and use many light taps to deform the head.
 
Pins can do more than just prevent shear, or twisting. If the pin hole is properly reamed the pins can be peened which will offer better holding. The Loveless bolt will be the strongest, followed by the Corby, and then pins. I've never used rivets, and wouldn't consider them.
 
Peened pins are rivets.

Cutler's rivets are a different thing, with hollow headed tubes that are forced together and wedge in the tang hole.
 
Maybe I could have been more clear. I'm using 2 piece cutlery rivets and wonder if the juice is worth the squeeze, or will a pin and peen be just fine. Seems the swelling of the cutlery rivet would yield better results but most of the knives I see on this forum have pins. There must be a reason for that.
 
I thought it must be easier. I'm going to switch and get away from the cutlery rivets.
Thank you for the responses folks.
 
One big thing people don't understand about Cutler's rivets is they are only solid if the tang hole is the right size. The tang hole MUST be just a tad larger than the female rivet - maybe .005". This allows the rivet to expand when the male is driven home and locks the rivets in the tang. They will have to be drilled out to remove them. Done with a tang hole too large and they can pull apart when the scales swell from getting wet.
 
If you want the larger bearing for clamping the scales, you could use pins through a washer and then peened into a countersink in the washer. Thats a lot of tedious drilling though. Pin hole, countersink washer into handle, countersink pin into washer, then peen. I’ve done it and it worked but to make it look good would be quite tedious.
 
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