Pipe hawk too tight.

RemyKaze

RemyKaze

Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
2,177
It might sound kind of ridiculous, but I'm somewhat new to the nuances of tomahawks. My pipe hawk is fit onto the handle very tightly with about an inch or more of handle above the eye, and I was wondering if there were a simpler way than using a rubber mallet, to knock the head off so I could make some alterations to both it and the haft?
 
Holding the axe vertically, tap the pommel end, sharply on a hard surface (wood) and it should loosen and slip down.
(If you choke up the handle when doing this, say an inch or two below the head, it will 'catch' it as it drops).

To re-seat the head, slide the head into position and tap the head end likewise.

If you have a sheath, performing both these tasks with it on the head, is safest.
 
scruffuk said:
Holding the axe vertically, tap the pommel end, sharply on a hard surface (wood) and it should loosen and slip down.
(If you choke up the handle when doing this, say an inch or two below the head, it will 'catch' it as it drops).

To re-seat the head, slide the head into position and tap the head end likewise.

If you have a sheath, performing both these tasks with it on the head, is safest.
Click to expand...
Ha, I was hoping I wouldn't have to beat on it. It was unusually tight. I ended up using a steel hammer and a small block of soft wood. Once I got the coating off the inside, filed some of it smooth, and sanded that area of the handle, I could wiggle it almost back to the same position, then knock it into place. Worked out well enough. Thanks for the advice though.

OutdoorEnvy said:
What's the problem? Tightness is good
Click to expand...

Tightness is good, unless you have to beat the crap out of it to get the head off, which means it loses one of the advantages of being a tomahawk. Plus I wanted to be able to get the head off to strip the blade, and again later for filework and to stain the handle.
 
I received a new Riflemans Hawk this week that was also very tightly fitted.Looking at the painted head underside,it appears they use a pipe over the haft to drive the head on.Could see where the head was driven up shaving the haft,and then it set back leaving a ring trimmings.The set screw was run all the way into the wood and out of the threads in the head,so I could not get it out without removing the hawk head.

Kinda of wish I would have left it alone,but wanted/needed to refinish the haft since the lacquer had started flaking off and the surface was developing splinters/feathered from raised grain.Plus I wanted to know the integrity of the hawk as its going on my pack for camping and survival needs.

Anyway,as has been noted here many times,the eye had a ring of burs around the top and bottom that where so sharp it actually planed the wavy surface length and some of the crappy laquer finish off as I disassembled.There were also raised areas of metal inside the eye where it was punched/formed that were sticking up enough to groove the haft.Once I removed the hawk head and cleaned up all the burs and raised areas around and inside the eye,the head fits the handle with a nice tight slip fit.
The top of the haft is also abruptly formed with very little taper.So basically the top of the haft is almost bulb shaped.After setting the hawk head and trimming the shavings the haft got a even better purchase on the handle,but it took a few tries.

That said the haft on the cold steel hawk Ive got is about the worst axe/hawk/hammer haft Ive ever had.Its a real tight grain red/brown center wood with a soured scent,almost smells rotten.Grain orientation running exactly 90 degrees from bit direction.Its also bowed/twisted in the middle throwing the haft heel off center back and to the right.I actually thought the bit was crooked at first look its so bad.

The haft now has two splits at the heel of the haft in two places running up the grain about an inch.Im not sure if I did it removing the head from the haft as I normally do,moderate strikes of the haft heel on a pine plank,or if its from flex during use.But the haft has also developed cracks middle way up as well,flaking the laquer finish off and getting even more feathered where finish flaked off.

Called Cold Steel and they said to ship the haft back and they will replace it.But Im thinking rather than wasting another $10.00 in shipping for an unknown quality haft,I need to find a more reliable source for hawk hafts as this is going to be my pack/survival hawk.

So my question for the experienced members here:

1. Who makes a proper replacement haft that I can get quickly?

2.What wood is most recommended other than hickory?


ETA
To update my post quoted above,I called Cold Steel again to inquire about their replacement hafts and discuss what Im seeing with mine.Cold Steel customer service was extremely pleasant and helpful.In short,the CS rep simply said they were going to send me a replacement haft.Not what I expected at all.
So I thought I'd share my experience and appreciation for the excellent service from Cold Steel.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
DayGlo_Koolaid said:
For the love of Glob, tell me you removed the grub screw first!
Click to expand...

Yeap.As I said,the set screw was run all the way thru,counter sunk into the wood,and out of the threads in the head,so I could not get it out without removing the hawk head.Had no effect on retention of the head on the haft at all.
 
Believe me, leave your head on as tight as it will go, loose heads suck big time. You can always get it off but when they start coming loose when you throw it you will wish you had left it tight.

Regards

Robin
 
Pipeman said:
Believe me, leave your head on as tight as it will go, loose heads suck big time. You can always get it off but when they start coming loose when you throw it you will wish you had left it tight.

Regards

Robin
Click to expand...


Got it.
The head on my Rifleman hawk mentioned above,starts to engage the handle 2/3 of the way up the haft.Has to be pushed/drawn up and then the handle tapped on a solid surface to seat the head.Takes a few strikes to unseat the head and it can be wiggled off from there.So I think Ive got about the best fit I can on my Riflemans hawk and still remain utilitarian.
Certainly not seeing any wobble so far by any means.This is going to be a field hawk for me so it will never be thrown,but will see some good strikes chopping/hammering.

That said Ive not had any new hawks since the early 80's.Those that I still have from that time were made for me by a blacksmith in Alabama and are the old bearded wrap and welds.The hafts on those hawks were hand made and fitted by the smith,and I have not broken one of them yet.Fit is simply drop head on and tap a couple times and they don't move.
So for me this was a learning experience in what Im seeing,especially fitting a haft,even though I did nothing more than trim the shavings.I do know now that Cold Steel hawks can come with a press fit head to haft.Just not something Ive seen with my more expensive hand mand hawks.

So yeah,my advice to anyone who gets a Cold Steel hawk with a tight head to haft fit,would be leave it alone until it loosens.Its not worth the effort otherwise.
I wanted the Rifleman due to size,weight and hammer pole.I like the design extremely well and its going to be my worker.Otherwise Im staying away from the project grade hawks from now on.
 
Blankwaffe said:
Got it.
The head on my Rifleman hawk mentioned above,starts to engage the handle 2/3 of the way up the haft.Has to be pushed/drawn up and then the handle tapped on a solid surface to seat the head.Takes a few strikes to unseat the head and it can be wiggled off from there.So I think Ive got about the best fit I can on my Riflemans hawk and still remain utilitarian.
Certainly not seeing any wobble so far by any means.This is going to be a field hawk for me so it will never be thrown,but will see some good strikes chopping/hammering.

That said Ive not had any new hawks since the early 80's.Those that I still have from that time were made for me by a blacksmith in Alabama and are the old bearded wrap and welds.The hafts on those hawks were hand made and fitted by the smith,and I have not broken one of them yet.Fit is simply drop head on and tap a couple times and they don't move.
So for me this was a learning experience in what Im seeing,especially fitting a haft,even though I did nothing more than trim the shavings.I do know now that Cold Steel hawks can come with a press fit head to haft.Just not something Ive seen with my more expensive hand mand hawks.

So yeah,my advice to anyone who gets a Cold Steel hawk with a tight head to haft fit,would be leave it alone until it loosens.Its not worth the effort otherwise.
I wanted the Rifleman due to size,weight and hammer pole.I like the design extremely well and its going to be my worker.Otherwise Im staying away from the project grade hawks from now on.
Click to expand...
My next is a 2 Hawks. Checked them out yet?
 
SMKW dropped the price on the Pipe Hawk last week,so I could not refuse to get one.
I have to say Ive changed my opinion about these Cold Steel Hawks with the Pipe Hawk...overall excellent quality.
Haft on the pipe hawk is a nice blonde wood with proper grain orientation,nothing like what came on my Riflemans hawk.Looks and feels as if this haft was wax finished and very smooth.Bit cutting edge was rolled to one side but took a edge almost immediately with couple strokes with a file and lightly stoned.
Once again the set screw was run all the way thru the head and into the haft.Initial attempt to remove the set screw and it cross threaded,so I had to remove the head to get the set screw out again.
Head to haft fit is extremely tight and had to be driven off as the OP noted.Basically a force fit for last 6"-7" before its seat.Cetainly no fitting needed on this hawk either.Looks as if the head was driven on the haft with a pipe etc. as I noted earlier.
Of the hawks I have here,I'd have to say the Pipe Hawk is the best design,weight,feel and balance Ive had to date.Bit is wide enough to do any basic chore,with a nice curved beard.The hammer pole is about the size of a 16oz. claw hammer giving it enough surface and weight to be effective,without throwing balance of the bit off.
So I have say outstanding job Cold Steel on the Pipe Hawk.Absolutely fantastic Tomahawk.
 
Blankwaffe said:
I received a new Riflemans Hawk this week that was also very tightly fitted.Looking at the painted head underside,it appears they use a pipe over the haft to drive the head on.Could see where the head was driven up shaving the haft,and then it set back leaving a ring trimmings.The set screw was run all the way into the wood and out of the threads in the head,so I could not get it out without removing the hawk head.

Kinda of wish I would have left it alone,but wanted/needed to refinish the haft since the lacquer had started flaking off and the surface was developing splinters/feathered from raised grain.Plus I wanted to know the integrity of the hawk as its going on my pack for camping and survival needs.

Anyway,as has been noted here many times,the eye had a ring of burs around the top and bottom that where so sharp it actually planed the wavy surface length and some of the crappy laquer finish off as I disassembled.There were also raised areas of metal inside the eye where it was punched/formed that were sticking up enough to groove the haft.Once I removed the hawk head and cleaned up all the burs and raised areas around and inside the eye,the head fits the handle with a nice tight slip fit.
The top of the haft is also abruptly formed with very little taper.So basically the top of the haft is almost bulb shaped.After setting the hawk head and trimming the shavings the haft got a even better purchase on the handle,but it took a few tries.

That said the haft on the cold steel hawk Ive got is about the worst axe/hawk/hammer haft Ive ever had.Its a real tight grain red/brown center wood with a soured scent,almost smells rotten.Grain orientation running exactly 90 degrees from bit direction.Its also bowed/twisted in the middle throwing the haft heel off center back and to the right.I actually thought the bit was crooked at first look its so bad.

The haft now has two splits at the heel of the haft in two places running up the grain about an inch.Im not sure if I did it removing the head from the haft as I normally do,moderate strikes of the haft heel on a pine plank,or if its from flex during use.But the haft has also developed cracks middle way up as well,flaking the laquer finish off and getting even more feathered where finish flaked off.

Called Cold Steel and they said to ship the haft back and they will replace it.But Im thinking rather than wasting another $10.00 in shipping for an unknown quality haft,I need to find a more reliable source for hawk hafts as this is going to be my pack/survival hawk.

So my question for the experienced members here:

1. Who makes a proper replacement haft that I can get quickly?

2.What wood is most recommended other than hickory?


ETA
To update my post quoted above,I called Cold Steel again to inquire about their replacement hafts and discuss what Im seeing with mine.Cold Steel customer service was extremely pleasant and helpful.In short,the CS rep simply said they were going to send me a replacement haft.Not what I expected at all.
So I thought I'd share my experience and appreciation for the excellent service from Cold Steel.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

RemyKaze,
Sorry about the thread hi-jack on my part.Probably should have started my own thread on the topic.

But thought I'd finalize updates to my posts above.

Cold Steel sent me a replacement haft for my Riflemans hawk and I received it yesterday.Its a blonde wood with proper grain orientation.As I noted previously with my new Pipe Hawk, the haft is sanded smooth and looks/feels to be thoroughly wax coated/sealed.Overall excellent quality haft.

I can't say enough about Cold Steel.They sure have inspired my confidence with their "old fashioned" customer service.I haven't seen a company respond to my concern the way Cold Steel has in many years.Darn nice folks to talk to on the phone too. :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
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