Pivot bushing question

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bladeboss

Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
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I have a Native 5, that has the pivot bushing.
I have heard on here, that some people say with pivot bushings, you tighten it down all the way and thats right where your tension should be.
If that is true, there is something wrong with my Native 5.
If I tighten it down all the way, the bladeplay is gone and theres no grittiness etc. BUT... the handle detent is %100 nonexistent.
If I mess with it like a normal male/female pivot, theres still no bladeplay, still no grittiness, but it then has handle detent.
Ive never even had to turn the other side of the pivot.
And it should be mentioned, that I took out one side of the screw one time, and it still didnt have any horizontal play.


Obviously not an issue, but just a question. I know the PM2 has a bushing too.
Do you tighten it down all the way, or do you have to do the same thing as me?
 
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In an ideal world, it would be true, but it's not - the realities of production tolerances don't permit that in this price range. Adjust it as you would a normal pivot. You'll be good to go. :thumbup:
 
JNewell said:
In an ideal world, it would be true, but it's not - the realities of production tolerances don't permit that in this price range. Adjust it as you would a normal pivot. You'll be good to go. :thumbup:
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I have been good to go so far. Ive used it pretty hard too. Like you said, nothing is perfect, Im just seeing it the-"tighten it down all the way is right"-was really true.
 
JNewell said:
It only works with the Sebenza - as Sal himself would tell you. :) :thumbup:
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This. The tighten it down all the way philosophy works with the Sebenza. I've disassembled my Para2 (shh, don't tell anyone ;)) and the bushing that is used in that model is not exactly the same type as in the Sebenza. So, beyond production tolerances, the difference in bushing style means that even with the Spyderco bushing being present, you'll still need to adjust the pivot of the Native5 and Para2 as you would with a normal pivot. However, the bushing should allow for a smooth opening and closing and should give some leeway so that you don't have to fine-tune the pivot quite so much to find the "sweet spot."
 
MaxFisher said:
This. The tighten it down all the way philosophy works with the Sebenza. I've disassembled my Para2 (shh, don't tell anyone ;)) and the bushing that is used in that model is not exactly the same type as in the Sebenza. So, beyond production tolerances, the difference in bushing style means that even with the Spyderco bushing being present, you'll still need to adjust the pivot of the Native5 and Para2 as you would with a normal pivot. However, the bushing should allow for a smooth opening and closing and should give some leeway so that you don't have to fine-tune the pivot quite so much to find the "sweet spot."
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I did notice that it didn't take as much tinkering to find the sweet spot.
 
JNewell said:
It only works with the Sebenza - as Sal himself would tell you. :) :thumbup:
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It works on my Sage 3. Zero blade play with the pivot tightened all the way yet the blade swings freely [when the lock is held back]. It's my only knife that can be "adjusted" like intended.
 
Cereal_killer said:
It works on my Sage 3. Zero blade play with the pivot tightened all the way yet the blade swings freely [when the lock is held back]. It's my only knife that can be "adjusted" like intended.
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Fair enough - I should have said it only works reliably and consistently with the Sebenza (and its close kin, the Mnandi and Umfaan). Because of normal production tolerances, some of the Spyderco knives with the stepped pivot will work exactly as you describe. Others will need to be adjusted like a traditional pivot, and there are some that have dimensions at the long end of the range that cannot be tightened enough to eliminate lateral play because the pivot dimensions are slightly too great.


bladeboss said:
So it's fairly normal that I have to tinker a tad....yes?
Click to expand...

Yes. :thumbup:
 
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