Pivot system; bushing or screw?

ToyKnife

ToyKnife

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Nov 19, 2006
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Basically, when it comes to frame/liner lock folding knives you have two options when it comes to how the blade is attached and operates/pivots. Option A, is a pivot with a separate bushing and screw/bolt. Option B, is the all-in-one pivot screw.

Option A - allows the user to tighten down all the screws evenly which means you get a consistent fit/lock up each time. But you can’t adjust the pivot to be tighter on the blade which affects how much pressure is needed to move the blade and will aid in fixing blade play. In addition, generally, one doesn’t have to continually adjust the pivot with this system (coming from Sebenza owner). All you have to do is tighten and use, the screw doesn’t loosen/back out, etc.

Option B - allows infinite adjustment; loose, tight and everything in between. The upside is you can custom tailor the feel of the blade movement. It is generally cheaper to build and has fewer parts to deal with. The downside is the user has to continue to adjust the pivot for a consistent feel and blade play. Now the only experience I have is from Benchmade. BM is no custom or high production. With the BMs I have noticed that the screw/pivot bolt likes a particular “setting”. Tighten the screw and it backs out to that setting or leave it at that setting and it loosens more. You need to play a little dance with the pressure once a month (depending on how much you use your knife).

On with the questions.

Which system do you prefer? Have you had the same experience?

Is there a difference with better built folders regarding the pivot screw/bolt option? Think customs, Strider, Hinderer, Emerson, etc. Do they have the constant adjustment problems?

What maker/manufacturer uses a pivot bushing system for their folders besides CRK?
 
Believe it or not, the Buck 110 uses a bushing similar to the one used in a sebenza. I own both, and the Sebenza bushing is made to much closer tolerances. The bushing on the 110 relies on the lock bar to "lock out" a certain amount of built in play that is apparent in most 110s when the knife is closed.
 
The last time I took my BM 710 apart for a cleaning was probably 4 months ago. When I put it back together I used blue loctite on the pivot screw. It hasn't needed an adjustment since and it gets opened and closed about 5 or 6 times a day.
 
I like the bushing system but lack of one is not too big of a problem to me either. Having the bushing means it is very easy to quickly take apart and put together a knife with little adjustment, but I've also never thought "wow, this is so great it should be on every knife."
 
KeithAM - I never would of thought that the Buck 110 would have such as system. Good to know. Interesting that I would bet that a lock back doesn't have this problem because how it locks...think about all the Spydercos. The last one I had didn't have a problem but then again it would it would develop some play.

theonew - I was thinking about the Loctite but for me it just doesn't seem right. I feel that a multi- hundred dollar knife shouldn't rely on such a, in my opinion, halfa$$ fix. Nothing against you and the many people that do this. I bet that I may start using this method in the future because it is the best and/or only reasonable way to fix the inherent problem.

carrot - I don't feel that the bushing system should be on every knife because of its greatness. The only problem I see with just using a pivot screw is the small problem with the screw coming loose/backing out. I would bet that one could machine a pivot just the right length so when it full tightened there would be optimal room for the blade and washers with no play. Use the right thread cut and I bet it would stay in place. But that is just a guess.
 
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