Pivots, Stiff action, Breaking in

J

jceckrosh

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Mar 2, 2016
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So I jumped in pretty hard on Emersons since deciding to take the plunge. I have bought 2 Customs with a third on the way, and 2 Signatures, plus 4 production models. I know, I went crazy.

My first Emerson, a production Roadhouse has "broken in" quickly without doing anything. I can shake it closed now and it opens smooth and easy.

Everything else is tight, and a couple the centering is a little off. I got a Super CQC 7 and the Super Roadhouse and both seem unreasonably tight, and despite quite a bit of opening and closing they don't seem to be breaking in. Additionally, they both favor the lock side, the CQC 7 to the point that I feel the blade touching the liner as I use the thumb disc to open it. Both of these are chisel and are the ones with centering issues. The knives I got with standard V ground blades are all centered.

I read one of the sticky threads, and was wondering if I actually need to take them apart to adjust the pivot and centering? I have had/have other knives where I was able to adjust the centering just with the pivot screw, but from what I read that does not seem to be the case here. Will taking them apart and cleaning out the special grease/lube help?

Any insights?
 
Interested to hear opinions on this as well. Exact same issue with an older Super Roadhouse that I own. I have been recently considering stripping it down, cleaning, and reassembling.
 
I highly advise stripping them down (always use good quality drivers). It is a lot like hand washing your brand new car - a true bonding experience. I fall deeper in love with my Emersons every time I take 'em down and do my own spa service. I like to check the condition of the detent bearings, which is easier to do if disassembled. On more than one occasion I have removed-rotated-reinstalled bearings that had developed a bigger "flat" spot than I like to see (light tap on a punch thru the back of the bar/tab, pushing the ball into a piece of soft wood such as a paint stir stick) - of course one should pay attention to the depth the ball is pressed. Don't over torque the screws on reassembly - they are intentionally fairly "soft" and the threads can be damaged fairly easily (this makes the relatively inexpensive screws the sacrificial part rather than damaging liners). It really is a way to know your Emerson, and keeps me coming back to this brand.

If you really don't want to dissassemble, then at least loosen the pivot to sloppy, and run hot tap water thru it, blow it off (canned air works well if no compressor handy) and re-tighten. The sticky method of centering your Emerson usually works quite well, and if it doesn't reveals some component may be out of spec or damaged. Stand-off models may vary from screw-thru (backspacer) in so far as the exact method for centering/tuning. On stand-off versions I am actually fond of using low strength "purple" Lock-Tite on alternate screws so they can be taken down and tuned like a backspacer model, leaving the Lock-Tited screw attached to the standoff (thru the scale/liner obviously). In this method the liner/scale/standoff assembly behaves almost like a solid framelock.
 
Officer's Match said:
I highly advise stripping them down (always use good quality drivers).

Don't over torque the screws on reassembly - they are intentionally fairly "soft" and the threads can be damaged fairly easily (this makes the relatively inexpensive screws the sacrificial part rather than damaging liners). It really is a way to know your Emerson, and keeps me coming back to this brand.

If you really don't want to dissassemble, then at least loosen the pivot to sloppy, and run hot tap water thru it, blow it off (canned air works well if no compressor handy) and re-tighten. The sticky method of centering your Emerson usually works quite well, and if it doesn't reveals some component may be out of spec or damaged. Stand-off models may vary from screw-thru (backspacer) in so far as the exact method for centering/tuning.
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Good drivers - check.
Don't overtighten - check.

Got the first part on the pivot. But I wonder about running water through the custom, since the Micarta seems very porous - in fact I've never seen micarta that looked so "unimpregnated". It's another concern. I actually don't have any micarta handles except the customs, but previously I had a few fixed blades with black micarta and the maker just said he used Rem Oil on them. Any advice on treating this micarta?

And by "sticky" method do you just mean what you described? Loosening the pivot and cleaning it out, then retightening?

I'm not super obsessive about blade centering, but I don't want things rubbing the liners. But I really don't want that Custom Super Roadhouse on the liner.
 
Officer's Match said:
Also, I personally prefer to run my Emersons dry, as in no lube. If I do lube, I use a grease (usually CRK) rather than an oil, and VERY sparingly at that.
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Good to know this as well. I used some techno knife oil on that SRH and it weaseled its way onto the micarta which changed color. For now. As I already mentioned, the porousness of the micarta was surprising to me.
 
Production Emerson falling shut? Didnt think that could happen with nylotron washers and double detents. My Emersons are hydraulic smooth not zt ball bearing smooth. Cleaning a new emerson is a good idea.
 
115Italian said:
Production Emerson falling shut? Didnt think that could happen with nylotron washers and double detents. My Emersons are hydraulic smooth not zt ball bearing smooth. Cleaning a new emerson is a good idea.
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Yeah, once I have the lock broke I can shake it closed. Easily. It doesn't drop like a rock like a couple flippers I have, but a little shake will do it. I was surprised by this.
 
115Italian said:
Production Emerson falling shut? Didnt think that could happen with nylotron washers and double detents. My Emersons are hydraulic smooth not zt ball bearing smooth. Cleaning a new emerson is a good idea.
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If it is the newer single detent/small lock face set up, absolutely yes sir. Older double detent - no chance without having a faulty closed detent. The washers get too much credit (or blame) for pivot action - the lock bar and detent tab tension (and aforementioned detent bearing surface condition) are much more important if the pivot is at the proper tension.
 
jceckrosh said:
And by "sticky" method do you just mean what you described? Loosening the pivot and cleaning it out, then retightening?
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Here it is copied and pasted from this thread (which is a "sticky" at the top of the subforum): https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/a-basic-owners-guide-for-emerson-knives.1222632/

How do I center the blade on my Emerson?
From Rachael Emerson:
1) Loosen the handle screws until they are very loose but not falling out. If you have a backspacer model, you will need to loosen the handle screws from both sides of the knife.
2) Loosen the pivot 1 1/2 times from where you prefer it tightened to.
3) Open the knife.
4) Tighten the handle screws from bottom up, then tighten the pivot.
5) Close the blade, your knife should be centered
 
Officer's Match said:
Here it is copied and pasted from this thread (which is a "sticky" at the top of the subforum): https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/a-basic-owners-guide-for-emerson-knives.1222632/

How do I center the blade on my Emerson?
From Rachael Emerson:
1) Loosen the handle screws until they are very loose but not falling out. If you have a backspacer model, you will need to loosen the handle screws from both sides of the knife.
2) Loosen the pivot 1 1/2 times from where you prefer it tightened to.
3) Open the knife.
4) Tighten the handle screws from bottom up, then tighten the pivot.
5) Close the blade, your knife should be centered
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Ah. Got ya. Yeah, I had read that.
 
Officer's Match said:
If it is the newer single detent/small lock face set up, absolutely yes sir. Older double detent - no chance without having a faulty closed detent. The washers get too much credit (or blame) for pivot action - the lock bar and detent tab tension (and aforementioned detent bearing surface condition) are much more important if the pivot is at the proper tension.
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Im out of the loop. Which models have single detent and small lock face? I haven’t heard of this until now
 
115Italian said:
Im out of the loop. Which models have single detent and small lock face? I haven’t heard of this until now
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First one I saw was the uber-rare Headless Horseman. Since then, most new models, such as the Aftershock, and select older ones. I've seen CQC-7's that are "new spec" (small lock-face & single detent, although the opposite liner still has the tab, just not bent out and no bearing), Commander and a few others. The smaller lock-face is very easy to spot if you look at it with the knife closed.
 
jceckrosh said:
But I wonder about running water through the custom, since the Micarta seems very porous - in fact I've never seen micarta that looked so "unimpregnated". It's another concern. I actually don't have any micarta handles except the customs, but previously I had a few fixed blades with black micarta and the maker just said he used Rem Oil on them. Any advice on treating this micarta?
Click to expand...

I enjoy the grippy texture of rough sanded canvas micarta. That said, over time the oils in your skin will change the color of the handles to a darker appearance unless it is black already. I have not had any issues with water on that material and it will dry quickly after wiping down with a towel. Dish soap and a toothbrush will help restore the handles to their original look and you can sand it to regain the texture. A few light swipes in one direction with 120-220 grit sandpaper will restore the grippiness, but you can always use higher grits if you prefer polished micarta. Unfortunately, I don't have any opinions or advice for oiling or impregnating the material.
 
I took the production Super7 apart completely and cleaned the old (2012) grease out and tried the centering trick after I had it mostly put together (meaning the screws were loose). Blade is centered, but the pivot is not all the way cranked down (and maybe it's not supposed to be - since at full tight you can barely open it), and I can still hear the faintest scrape as the flat side of the blade touches the liner while opening with the thumb stud.
 
jceckrosh said:
I took the production Super7 apart completely and cleaned the old (2012) grease out and tried the centering trick after I had it mostly put together (meaning the screws were loose). Blade is centered, but the pivot is not all the way cranked down (and maybe it's not supposed to be - since at full tight you can barely open it), and I can still hear the faintest scrape as the flat side of the blade touches the liner while opening with the thumb stud.
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I have some more suggestions - be back in a bit.
 
I also run my Emerson's dry.

You can adjust blade centering. Just loosen all of the frame screws and close the blade. Then tighten the pivot down so the blade won't open. This should center it while allowing the liners to adjust position. Now with the pivot still tight, tighten the frame screws one by one, starting at the bottom working your way up. Be sure not to over tighten and strip them... but when you are done just loosen the pivot a little bit and it should stay centered.

Another thing you can do if you are so inclined is adjust the locklbar and detent tensions. Basically bending the lockbar and detent in/out to get the desired performance you want. This requires full disassembly. I always lighten my lockbar a bit, and the detents are usually fine the way they are but I've stiffened a couple of them.

If the tip of a chisel blade is touching the liner when using the thumb stud then either tighten the main pivot a bit, or loosen the frame screws and open the blade with the pivot at an operational tensioon and you can then manipulate the liners with your hand to adjust them a bit. Hard to describe, but slide them against eachother with presentation side moving up and lockbar side moving down. They will move a hair or two, which is enough in most case. Then hold this position and tighten the frame screws one by one, bottom to top. This should solve the problem.

If not then your knife is garbage and you can send it to me for proper disposal ;)

PS: on a custom your frame screws are under the presentation side scale.
 
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^ A lot of what I was going to say. One thing that is really helpful is if you have a vice or other apparatus to hold the blade. I use my Wicked Edge as a vice, which is nice as it holds the blade straight up vertical. If I don't want to tinker with lock/tab spring tension on a difficult centering knife (not just Emersons), I'll clamp the blade, slightly unlock the pivot so the adjustment isn't (1.) inhibited by the lock/blade interface, & (2.) is under the lock-bar pressure. Then, with the body screw and pivot loosened a little, I'll apply a little torque to the handle in the direction I need to move, and tighten the body screws from the rear. For example, say your blade is favoring the lock-bar side. With the blade clamped, edge up, and the lock disengaged & pivot and screws loosened (be CAREFUL obviously), pull the handle gently to the right (towards the non-locking liner) as you tightened the screws starting from the back. Then take off the vice and adjust pivot. May take a few tries to tune to preference, but should work (absent some more fundamental problem).

The best true fix however is adjusting spring tensions to achieve balance with easy "normal" re-assembly. However that is definitely a riskier procedure.
 
Thanks mt666tm mt666tm and Officer's Match Officer's Match

I've messed with it enough today. It's acceptable at the moment, but I will try some of your further suggestions as well.

I'm only tinkering with the production model for now. Want to get a little more experience before I mess with the one custom with a centering issue.
 
Keep in mind that there may be that one knife that you will just never be able to center no matter what you do. Perhaps the pivot holes in the liners are drilled off enough to prevent a perfect center. I've got one, and after hours of prying, bending this and that, I've made my peace with it. As long as the blade does not touch the liner at all then it's good... or so I tell myself to keep my OCD in check.
 
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