Planned BMK purchase. Too much M4?

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Aug 26, 2024
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I got a bit of a cash windfall this month and the better half had given her blessing for me to buy a couple of knives. I’ve been on a Microtech kick lately, and thought about an auto stitch or SOCOM, but I have a lot of blades in M390 now and would like to try M4. I see it as Cruwear with better edge retention (I know it’s a little less tough too). And I really love Cruwear!

I live close to the Utah bladeHQ shop so I figure I’ll go down and check out one of their exclusive 940’s in M4, I’m not too sold on the jade G10 scales, but I think I’ll embellish this knife with custom hardware anyway. I’m really after that M4 blade.

But I’ve also had my eye on the Freek for a long time, again in M4. It feels so damn good in my hand and I’ve wanted one for a while now.

I’m not too keen on S90V, so I’ll probably avoid those variants in either knife, and I’ve already got enough S30V blades in my collection (though I find it to be great steel too) so I’m less interested in an S30V Osborne.

Anyone have any important words of caution before I pull the trigger on 2 M4 blades?
 
Good to hear that you’re happy with M4, I just purchased the freak a few minutes ago at a local REI. I had a gift card from work, some leftover dividends, and a few gift cards with balances left on them. All told I got out the door for $109 out of my pocket. I’m pretty happy with that deal.
 
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But I’ve also had my eye on the Freek for a long time, again in M4. It feels so damn good in my hand and I’ve wanted one for a while now.

That makes two of us. The full sized Freek in M4 will be my next Benchmade purchase.
 
That makes two of us. The full sized Freek in M4 will be my next Benchmade purchase.
I got mine today, action was pretty rough out of the box, but a little lube and a pivot adjustment and it’s smooth and stop shutting now. Edge wasn’t the best finish either, but a few moments with the ceramic plate and a strop and it’s scary sharp now. Can pull it through paper with the knife laying flat in my palm. It’ll push cut through newsprint too.
 
I got mine today, action was pretty rough out of the box, but a little lube and a pivot adjustment and it’s smooth and stop shutting now. Edge wasn’t the best finish either, but a few moments with the ceramic plate and a strop and it’s scary sharp now. Can pull it through paper with the knife laying flat in my palm. It’ll push cut through newsprint too.

Love to hear you are happy with it. Have fun with it 🍻

You probably got the coated blade?

I will wait for the satin to come out this spring/summer.
 
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I got a bit of a cash windfall this month and the better half had given her blessing for me to buy a couple of knives. I’ve been on a Microtech kick lately, and thought about an auto stitch or SOCOM, but I have a lot of blades in M390 now and would like to try M4. I see it as Cruwear with better edge retention (I know it’s a little less tough too). And I really love Cruwear!

I live close to the Utah bladeHQ shop so I figure I’ll go down and check out one of their exclusive 940’s in M4, I’m not too sold on the jade G10 scales, but I think I’ll embellish this knife with custom hardware anyway. I’m really after that M4 blade.

But I’ve also had my eye on the Freek for a long time, again in M4. It feels so damn good in my hand and I’ve wanted one for a while now.

I’m not too keen on S90V, so I’ll probably avoid those variants in either knife, and I’ve already got enough S30V blades in my collection (though I find it to be great steel too) so I’m less interested in an S30V Osborne.

Anyone have any important words of caution before I pull the trigger on 2 M4 blades?
Maybe also have a look at the BM Bailout 537GY-1 while you are at BladeHq?
 
Maybe also have a look at the BM Bailout 537GY-1 while you are at BladeHq?

They’re out of stock at HQ, but I saw one at REI. Nice knife, felt great in the hand but I can’t get past the edge bevel on BM’s Tanto blades; every one is uneven and super wide. After having a Microtech Tanto I don’t think I could see past that edge.
 
They’re out of stock at HQ, but I saw one at REI. Nice knife, felt great in the hand but I can’t get past the edge bevel on BM’s Tanto blades; every one is uneven and super wide. After having a Microtech Tanto I don’t think I could see past that edge.
The widening of the tanto edge from where it starts at the main edge up to the tip is due to the blade geometry. The Bailout keeps a lot of its thickness all the way out to the tip. The stock thickness is .090in and it only drops down to about .050in at the tip. The thickness along the main edge is around .025in. So the blade is much thicker at the top than it is at the bottom, basically doubling in thickness along the short tanto edge. If you hold a consistent sharpening angle, the bevel has to get wider as the stock thickens. That's just geometry. To keep that bevel the same width across the tanto edge, the sharpening angle would have to get steeper and steeper as the stock thickened. So you'd have an even bevel but an inconsistent sharpening angle, which would not be good.

Other tantos with similar geometry also have the widening bevel. Check out a Chris Reeve tanto. Same story. Other tantos like the Microtechs you mention have tantos with a longer more triangular point that comes down to a thinner tip, keeping the edge thickness down and the bevel more even. Even some Benchmade tantos do this. Look at the Nimravus tanto with its even bevel. It all comes down to the design. On the Bailout, which is already a thin blade, keeping more thickness out to the tip makes sure the tip is strong. But if the aesthetics of it bother you, that's a perfectly valid opinion.
 
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The widening of the tanto edge from where it starts at the main edge up to the tip is due to the blade geometry. The Bailout keeps a lot of its thickness all the way out to the tip. The stock thickness is .090in and it only drops down to about .050in at the tip. The thickness along the main edge is around .025in. So the blade is much thicker at the top than it is at the bottom, basically doubling in thickness along the short tanto edge. If you hold a consistent sharpening angle, the bevel has to get wider as the stock thickens. That's just geometry. To keep that bevel the same width across the tanto edge, the sharpening angle would have to get steeper and steeper as the stock thickened. So you'd have an even bevel but an inconsistent sharpening angle, which would not be good.

Other tantos with similar geometry also have the widening bevel. Check out a Chris Reeve tanto. Same story. Other tantos like the Microtechs you mention have tantos with a longer more triangular point that comes down to a thinner tip, keeping the edge thickness down and the bevel more even. Even some Benchmade tantos do this. Look at the Nimravus tanto with its even bevel. It all comes down to the design. On the Bailout, which is already a thin blade, keeping more thickness out to the tip makes sure the tip is strong. But if the aesthetics of it bother you, that's a perfectly valid opinion.
This is correct. The widening at the tip on the bailout for example is intentional. Thicker behind the edge there, stronger tip.
 
This is correct. The widening at the tip on the bailout for example is intentional. Thicker behind the edge there, stronger tip.
I think it's a great design, too. Thin slicey blade that still has a tip robust enough to handle some harder use. I've got the 3V Grivory and M4 green aluminum and they are some of my favorites, especially the 537GY-1.
 
The widening of the tanto edge from where it starts at the main edge up to the tip is due to the blade geometry. The Bailout keeps a lot of its thickness all the way out to the tip. The stock thickness is .090in and it only drops down to about .050in at the tip. The thickness along the main edge is around .025in. So the blade is much thicker at the top than it is at the bottom, basically doubling in thickness along the short tanto edge. If you hold a consistent sharpening angle, the bevel has to get wider as the stock thickens. That's just geometry. To keep that bevel the same width across the tanto edge, the sharpening angle would have to get steeper and steeper as the stock thickened. So you'd have an even bevel but an inconsistent sharpening angle, which would not be good.

Other tantos with similar geometry also have the widening bevel. Check out a Chris Reeve tanto. Same story. Other tantos like the Microtechs you mention have tantos with a longer more triangular point that comes down to a thinner tip, keeping the edge thickness down and the bevel more even. Even some Benchmade tantos do this. Look at the Nimravus tanto with its even bevel. It all comes down to the design. On the Bailout, which is already a thin blade, keeping more thickness out to the tip makes sure the tip is strong. But if the aesthetics of it bother you, that's a perfectly valid opinion.
Excellent explanation, Delta V. Thanks.
 
The widening of the tanto edge from where it starts at the main edge up to the tip is due to the blade geometry. The Bailout keeps a lot of its thickness all the way out to the tip. The stock thickness is .090in and it only drops down to about .050in at the tip. The thickness along the main edge is around .025in. So the blade is much thicker at the top than it is at the bottom, basically doubling in thickness along the short tanto edge. If you hold a consistent sharpening angle, the bevel has to get wider as the stock thickens. That's just geometry. To keep that bevel the same width across the tanto edge, the sharpening angle would have to get steeper and steeper as the stock thickened. So you'd have an even bevel but an inconsistent sharpening angle, which would not be good.

Other tantos with similar geometry also have the widening bevel. Check out a Chris Reeve tanto. Same story. Other tantos like the Microtechs you mention have tantos with a longer more triangular point that comes down to a thinner tip, keeping the edge thickness down and the bevel more even. Even some Benchmade tantos do this. Look at the Nimravus tanto with its even bevel. It all comes down to the design. On the Bailout, which is already a thin blade, keeping more thickness out to the tip makes sure the tip is strong. But if the aesthetics of it bother you, that's a perfectly valid opinion.

That makes a lot of sense actually, I never noticed the tip thickness difference. I do prefer the aesthetics of Microtech’s thin edge bevels, but can understand the benefits of more material at the tip for a blade designed for piercing/stabbing.
 
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If you don't have a 940 already then just know they aren't a slicey kind of blade.

I now beg to differ. I put a screaming edge on it yesterday, then promptly dropped it while trying to close it, it sliced right through the bottom inch of my jeans from about table height; including the hemmed over cuff. Luckily I had shoes and thick socks on.
 
I now beg to differ. I put a screaming edge on it yesterday, then promptly dropped it while trying to close it, it sliced right through the bottom inch of my jeans from about table height; including the hemmed over cuff. Luckily I had shoes and thick socks on.
I recently had a similar experience. Put a fresh edge on my Griptilian then dropped it on my leg. Put a clean 1 inch hole in my jeans and shorts but luckily I was unscathed. I stitched up the jeans.
 
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