Plasma cutter?

R

RobertHankins

Joined
Jun 10, 2001
Messages
1,385
I am pondering getting a Plasma cutter to cut out swords and medieval axes.
How much extra do I need to leave to compensate for the Carbon burn out?
I am getting some wide stock in and spending hours at the bandsaw or doing a waterjet cut for each single pattern doesn't make sense.
Besides it would be fun to cut out some really cool fantasy Axes and such...
 
at least a 1/4" - 3/16ths" it would depend all so on the thickness of steel that you are burning through.a water jet would be less waste but i think they are a lot more $$$. i have my rhino chops laser cut by admiral steel. but they won't cut any steel over 5/32" with their laser. sounds like fun , keep us posted on the cost etc, of a plasma cutter.
 
The little bit I know about plasma cutters is you don't damage the steel. I almost went that route a few years ago but hear your alway replacing tips, you may want to check on what the tips may run you before you get one. Something else to consider is the thickness of the steel you'll be cutting. Here they work really slick on really thin stock, but the thicker the steel the slower you have to go. If you do get one I'd like to here what you think about it. Maybe another option would be seeing if you could rent one before you buy it...... Ray
 
Greeting's All I Have Been Very Lucky to Actually Use Plasma A Couple of Time's Here is What I Find !! On Stainless it is Great Cut's up to 3/8 Fairly Quick Little Clean Up Like a Gas torch / Cutting Hardened M-2 D -2 is Great / Cutting High Carbon It Does Not do Well Trust Me !! Lot's of Clean Up the Carbon Steel / Damascus act's Like Stainless does With a Gas Torch Lot's of " Slag " Hope this Help's !! :D ;)
 
The thickness of the metal that you can cut depends on the power of the plasma torch. If you are at all carefull tips last a good while. There are a few pieces that are considered consumables in the torch, but most of them last a long time. They are a major investment upfront, but not bad to operate. Make sure you put an air filter right before the intake. Oh yea the little o-rings in the torch are very important. Bad things happen when someone leaves them off. <--This wasn't me

WS
 
Robert, really interested in one of these too. Please keep us posted on your progress. The little research I have done just reflects what has already been said here. Like a lot of other things, you gotta spend a little extra to get the one that will work. Don't think I would consider the Harbor Frieght unit for this tool. LOL.Terry
 
Sorry About The Delayed Reply Guy's The Stainless I Have Cut Was Most Likely 400 Series- Stainless Deli Blade!! But i Have Also Used it on " Normal " Stainless with no Problem's The Thinner the Stock the Faster it Cut's!! I Cheat and Use a Steel Straight Edge In " Freehand it Get's a Little "Tricky" But With a Little Practise No Problem !! I Think This Would Be Very Beneficial in Those Who Work Stainless !! For Me The "Hammer" Has Ruined My Life I Can't Just Stock Remove Anymore "I Must FORGE" Feel Free to E- Mali Me if Any Question's Matt /http://www.pinoyknife.com
 
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