Plasti-Dip Izula results

[clintzero]

Just thought I'd share some pictures because I'd been curious about trying this for a while, but had never seen the results of someone else doing it.

First off, the $6 diving knife test subject:

As you can see, there are some tiny little bubble marks that I don't mind at all. It improved the feel of this knife dramatically, so I gave it a try with my Izula:

After two dips you can still make out the etched writing on the handle.

I like the feel, and it definitely improved grip, especially when wet, but I'm not too sure about the longevity. I was able to peel off some of the coating on the diving knife with little effort, but the Izula is much more textured and might hold a lot better. I guess time will tell. Also, it would be totally possible to cord wrap your Izula AND THEN dip it. I'd like to see that, but I'm too lazy to try it right now.

Nonetheless, I saw jvthor's friction taped Izula today (in this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=731620) and I'm kinda bummed I didn't try that first.

 

[Rockywolf]

So did you hang it after dipping? What's dry time? How many applications?

 

[samhain73]

Justabuyer did that with a Busse Sar5 a few years ago, and really liked the results. (Cord wrapped plasti-dip) http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=559087&highlight=sar5

 

[bladebuster]

That's a good idea...never thought of that. I have plasti dip that turned a bit hard - what do you use to liquify it again? Lacquer thinner or Acetone?

 

[hathegkla]

That's a good idea...never thought of that. I have plasti dip that turned a bit hard - what do you use to liquify it again? Lacquer thinner or Acetone?

Acetone might work but it may only swell the rubber (and not dissolve it) but THF or DMAC or Hexane would probably work a lot better, use a high speed mixer on a drill (or strap the can to your drill press) and even use a little heat if you can (like from a heat lamp, just not so hot you immolate yourself). Commercial Plasti Dip thinner is 65% Toluene and 35% Naptha by weight so if you can find those at your hardware store or in your garage you can make it.

EDIT: and make sure you read the MSDS for any solvent you are using, acetone, toluene and thf are ridiculously flammable while DMAC and DMF are much safer and are harder to ignite (the fumes are not safer). I'd also recommend at least 3-4 layers, just make sure its thick, plasti dip is a bit soft and will peel easily in thin layers. if you use thinner and mix it in don't use it right away. it will be full of bubbles and they will show up on your part. let it sit in as warm a room as possible (don't put it in the oven lol) for a day or so, at least overnight. then do your dipping.

 

[dcycleman]

I'd just buy new mix, why take the chance of having crappy rubber that you have to chisel off the handle afterwards.

 

[hathegkla]

I'd just buy new mix, why take the chance of having crappy rubber that you have to chisel off the handle afterwards.

yeah...honestly I don't even like plasti dip to begin with. I've only used it a few times but it always seems to peel and wear away. unless they've changed the formulation in the past 5 years or so its just too soft. But there aren't many other accessible options for dipping tools at home. I've been dipping medical devices in various kinds of polyurethane for the last 10 years or so, so I'm a bit biased when it comes to dip coating.

Plasti Dip is a 70A on the durometer scale, I think a good dipped grip for a knife handle should be around 55D. anything softer than that and you run into durability problems. obviously material choice also plays into durability but anything soft and squishy is going to wear out pretty fast on a knife or tool handle. if your willing to re dip it every once in a while its not a problem.

 

[marantz]

Thanks for the photos, and the experiment. I wonder if intentionally whipping air bubbles into the dip would give some extra grip, or wrapping the last dip in silicone sprayed rough cloth would transfer some extra texture.

I was also considering asking my local Line-X truck bed sprayer how much he would charge to spray a pretaped knife while he was doing a truck bed. Since they actually have to add the textured finish after the initial smooth finish, it might not be as cheap as I would like. The Line-X polyurethane is definitely harder than the Rhino polyurethane.

Or maybe we should just be happy with the micarta scales available. They're not really that expensive.

How good is the Plasti-Dip on heat transfer? I know my Line-X bedliner is warm to the touch on a hot day while my factory vinyl tailgate cap is too hot to touch.

 

[clintzero]

Thanks for the responses, everyone!

So did you hang it after dipping? What's dry time? How many applications?

I hung both of them from clamps suspended by cord from a beam in my basement over a pair of paper plates to catch drips. Surprisingly, there actually weren't any drips. The packaging said to wait twenty minutes between coats and the final dry time was listed as four hours, but I just let them hang overnight.

That's a good idea...never thought of that. I have plasti dip that turned a bit hard - what do you use to liquify it again? Lacquer thinner or Acetone?

I dunno. I bought this stuff new and used it quickly enough that drying wasn't an issue. But for $8 I could always get more.

Plasti Dip is a 70A on the durometer scale, I think a good dipped grip for a knife handle should be around 55D. anything softer than that and you run into durability problems. obviously material choice also plays into durability but anything soft and squishy is going to wear out pretty fast on a knife or tool handle. if your willing to re dip it every once in a while its not a problem.

Yeah, I think I agree. I'm glad I did it as sort of an experiment, but I'm not convinced it's the best option out there. Honestly, I wouldn't even buy a knife that came with a rubbery handle. I prefer slabs, but I'm not overly enthusiastic about the Izula scales available (some black or orange G10 would be great, though).

How good is the Plasti-Dip on heat transfer? I know my Line-X bedliner is warm to the touch on a hot day while my factory vinyl tailgate cap is too hot to touch.

Not sure. I didn't leave it out in the sun or anything, but I wear my Izula as a horizontal carry in the front, so when I bend over or sit down the handle makes contact with my gut. As I've been sitting here at the computer there has definitely been some heat transfer to the coating (definitely noticeably more than there was previously).

Justabuyer did that with a Busse Sar5 a few years ago, and really liked the results. (Cord wrapped plasti-dip) http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=559087&highlight=sar5

It's awesome that someone actually did it. I'm not as enthusiastic about trying it after this experiment, but that definitely helped satiate some of my lingering curiosity. FYI, I also considered making a checkered pattern across the handle using relatively small gauge wire and then dipping it to add a sort of homemade checkered grip, but I didn't really feel like putting that much work into the idea, heh.

 

[hathegkla]

Thanks for the photos, and the experiment. I wonder if intentionally whipping air bubbles into the dip would give some extra grip, or wrapping the last dip in silicone sprayed rough cloth would transfer some extra texture.

I was also considering asking my local Line-X truck bed sprayer how much he would charge to spray a pretaped knife while he was doing a truck bed. Since they actually have to add the textured finish after the initial smooth finish, it might not be as cheap as I would like. The Line-X polyurethane is definitely harder than the Rhino polyurethane.

Or maybe we should just be happy with the micarta scales available. They're not really that expensive.

How good is the Plasti-Dip on heat transfer? I know my Line-X bedliner is warm to the touch on a hot day while my factory vinyl tailgate cap is too hot to touch.

sorry for the long post, I think I drank too much coffee this morning

I would not recommend mixing air into it, mechanically introduced bubbles in your dipping solution never coat on evenly and create weak spots, besides that, foam makes a terrible handle material. if you really want to make a foam you should buy a foaming material and use it inside a mold (not dipped). if you really want to dip coat foam (I've done it but its tricky) mix about 70% table salt by weight into the solution (this is assuming the solution you are starting with is around 20-25% solids, which plasti dip is), keep it in suspension while dipping! be sure to dip right after you mix, don't worry about the air bubbles. Then fully dry and dissolve the salt out of it using hot water, you have to squeeze and manhandle the material in warm water to dissolve the encapsulated salt out but you will be left with an open cell foam with uniform bubble size (I wouldn't recommend this for a handle though).

you can texture the handle surface if you want but wait until it starts to set up a bit before you press anything into the surface. but I would recommend wrapping the handle with something grippy before applying the plastic coating instead of trying to texture it, like wrapping the handle in course twine or cotton string and then coating over that. plasti dip is too weak to take a deep texture and still be durable.

The Line-X or Rinoliner stuff is an interesting idea. guaranteed its going to be a lot more durable but the grit size may be a little rough on your hands. just be sure to check out the grit size and make sure you like it. it might make an ideal grip for a dive knife or anything you want to use in a greasy, muddy or slippery environment. you can always sprinkle sand over an epoxy covered part to make your own. definitely post pix if you try line-x though!

there are a lot of options for dipped handles if you are willing to do a little searching. I'd look for a rubbery 2 part epoxy like coating, you'll get better chemical resistance and if you buy a specialty material like that you'll likely be able to choose what durometer hardness you want.

if anyone is seriously interested in making higher quality dipped handles shoot me a pm and I can help you, like I said I do this stuff for a living and can help you choose a material and coat/dry it properly

 

[texastonydobbs]

Dip Izula get base coat & before second dip sprinkle sand on the handle aera and the let it sit and then dip again to cover over rough feel.

 

[Vic303]

You could even use Glo-powder as the top coat of texture if you want to find the knife in the dark.

Seriously though, I did see an old thread a couple days ago about someone who made full length micarta scales for the Izula...is anybody here making full size scales now? These covered the ring-end fully, not like the mini scales currently sold.