Platen Angle?

D

Dav

Joined
Mar 19, 2000
Messages
94
Got a question regarding the setup of the platen. My normal procedure is to use the steady rest as a base, place the base of a machinists square on it and adjust the platen to ensure that it is square with the right angle. Lately I've been getting grooves caused by the top roller area contacting the handle area while trying to taper the blade. Is this lack of experience, stupidity or have I set it up wrong?

I remove the steady rest after setup and I use bare hands to hold the blade to ensure that I don't overheat the stock.

Which brings me to the next question...what is the best way to hold the blade stock for tapering and stock removal?

Note to Jerry; No, I haven't given up on hollow grinding. Hell, I haven't done enough of it to get fed up with it yet. Besides, I like a hollow ground blade and the way it moves and catches the light. While each discipline has its' own attributes, I hope to learn enough about flat and hollow grinds to be able to do both, well.

I'm just a little slower than most...comes from sucking in too much gunsmoke as a youth!

Look forward to your suggestions and directions.

All the Best

Dileas Gu Brath
 
Dav, what grinder do you have?? On a Wilton, the two wheels on the platen can be adjusted to sit in front of, parralel to, or behind the platen.Maybe your's needs to be set back a tad.

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
L6;

Thanks for the quick come back! I have a Bee which is very similar to a Wilton and low and behold!! the platen rollers are mounted on offset bearing mounts. I just tweeked the rollers so that they run slightly behind the platen and that should do the trick!!

I'm embarrassed to say that I should have known my euipment a little better but then I drove a car once and knew it to be a simple thing and then someone mentioned that perhaps I should turn the wheel...!

Many thanks.

Dileas Gu Brath
 
Dave, you left out a couple critical words in your email. "Tapering Tangs" Now I understand. L6 answered your question, but by all means get a magnet for holding the blade. I happen to like the one sold by K&G. No wonder you get distracted; pain does that to you...
smile.gif


Good luck!

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
dave
here is a trick I do to hold my blade
it drill two holes in the tang part and
tap them both,the I use two long bolts
screw them in and you have a good handle to
hold on to and you have alot of control
it also makes you handle lighter and it lets the epoxy go through the holes when you set up your handles
 
I have the same magnet Jerry is talking about and it works great. I also took a stick of ironwood, drilled a hole in it, and pressed a 3/16" pin into it. With that, I just put the pin into the rivet holes in the tang and grind away. I like this because I don't have to pry the magnet off every time I want to dip the blade (I suppose you could just dip it too). If the block of wood is long enough, it's very easy to apply even pressure. If you use a small piece, it's hard to apply even pressure to the tang.

The easiest way to do it and not mess up is the magnet.

Nick
 
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