Platen Question

Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,189
Well, I dont know why it took my slow brain to heat the back of my old platen to release the pyrocream SP? piece from it.

No I have a new platen for my KMG!
Question is this. I left the shoulders on the glass piece at hard right angles. Should I round over the edges slightly? I do want crisp plunge cuts. Just looking for input.
Thanks.

By the way. My control is getting better! Chck out the straight bevel!
Ready.jpg

now to work on my weak side...arg... :D
 
What was wrong with the old pyroceram? Was it cracked in three places like mine, heheh?
 
Lookin good B,

Just round the edges to your satisfaction. One thing to consider; when you leave a hard edge or angle in steel, it can cause problems when you heat treat. A 1/8" wide radius on the edge looks good to me.
 
jhiggins said:
What was wrong with the old pyroceram? Was it cracked in three places like mine, heheh?
It was on the wrong grinder. I took it to Lowes and they cut it down for free!!

I may round just a hair. I was thinking the same thing Mark. Stress points?
 
Personally, I would leave the edges(right, and left sides) alone. You won't get them the same, and your belt will make the curve. Just round the top, and bottom to help the belt on, and off the platen.


I'm a bit confused by your first post also. Are you replacing a broken pyroceram liner, or are you just taking yours off for some reason?:confused:
 
Thanks Mike. I had a piece epoxied to my old Craftsman grinder. I have been using my KMG with the platen that came with it.
I dont know why I didnt think to heat the epoxy switch the platen material to my KMG.

I can get confusing posting sometimes. I am not always clear. I hunt and peck and I am at work so my mind wonders off course alot ;)
 
blgoode said:
........I dont know why I didnt think to heat the epoxy switch the platen material to my KMG.

..............
That happens to all of us at times.

Is the platen material the same size as the KMG's platen? I would think a craftsman platen way smaller.:confused:
 
I had a 2 x 42 craftsman. I'll just contact cenent the pyroceram to the kmg's steel platen. All I use the craftsman for now is putting the final edge bevel on and sharpening.

I'll leave the edges the way they are and see how it goes.
Thanks for the opinions.
 
I rounded mine slightly and it worked good. However, I was disappointed in the overall effectiveness of it because after profiling six blades it was just as worn as the steel face of my platen that I covered with the pyroceram! What do most folks profile their blades with? I assumed the flat platen and the work rest....is there something I don't know about this?? I was told by many that the pyroceram would last at least three lifetimes before it was worn out, but mine only lasted 6 blades. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Profile with a contact wheel Hank preferably serrated. Save the platen for the bevels. Or get one of Rob Frink's rotary platens.
 
Any one have any feedback on using the graphite coated canvas on the platen compared to pyroceram?

GARY
 
What do most folks profile their blades with? I assumed the flat platen and the work rest....is there something I don't know about this??
Like Mark said, the contact wheel. Profiling on a platen is a study in misery, wasted time, and lots of noise.


Any one have any feedback on using the graphite coated canvas on the platen compared to pyroceram?

GARY
It doesn't allow you to get flat bevels, and can actually leave dished out spots on your blade.
 
Thanks Mike. I just got my KMG the other day, have nothing backing the platen yet. Ordered some graphite Wednesday, I probably will get the pyroceram ordered the first of the week. I am going to weld up another platen this weekend so I will have a spare for different types of materal.
Getting some lighting and rain here in the San Diego area, very rare lightning!!
Got to unhook.
GARY
 
I have used the graphite tape save your money it will get uneven and then it’s a mess spend your money on the fire place glass it want change and it lets the belt run cooler the heat is not a problem like steel slicker less load on the machine and longer belt life and you want have ( graphite slim every where )

It feels like its not touching compared to just steel platen

Bowie ! day Damascus free
 
Alright Mark and Mike...so what happens when I round off one side of my serrated wheel? This happened to me and I had to buy a whole dern new "tire". I don't pretend to know all the answers about knifemaking because, to put it simply, I am not at your level of expertise yet.

When I bought my Wilton Square wheel grinder 10 years ago, I was told by some to use the serrated wheel and some to use the platen. Using the wheel, it took no time to round it off but good and afterwards it was useless. Using the platen, like Mike says, was/is an exercise in misery and it is damn loud as well. Most of my education in all this has come by hard knocks and I don't want to buy another tire.

Seriously, thanks for any tips shared...they are very much appreciated.

Mark: Still want me to look for some sheds? Found one this week...dropping a little early this year for some reason.

Hank
 
I had some of that graphite tape stuff and if I was really hogging off some steel it would dish it out and leave the blade looking pretty sorry. I went with the pyroceran and never have had a problem with it.
 
HEll... I profile on my flat platen but I use a 3" contact wheel at the same time for the inside curves.
 
godogs57 said:
Alright Mark and Mike...so what happens when I round off one side of my serrated wheel?

When I bought my Wilton Square wheel grinder 10 years ago, I was told by some to use the serrated wheel and some to use the platen. Using the wheel, it took no time to round it off..........
Hank

Rounding off an edge of your contact wheel can happen, you just have to be watchful, and careful. Know where your blade is hitting all the time.

Some people use a serrated wheel, some a solid, amd some a platen. Well, you've experienced the platen, and it was about the same as the rest of us had. It's just not practical. Use the wheel.

If you have a wheel in need of repair, no need to get a new one, you can get it recovered, or just trued up, your choice, and a lot cheaper than a new one.Here's the place.
http://www.contactrubber.com/

You can also buy new wheels from them, probably cheaper than you're used to paying, also. Just make sure they know what type of grinder it's going on, and ask if they know the correct spacing etc.
They're good people to work with.
 
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