PLaten wear or avoiding it.

F

Frank Niro

Joined
Sep 10, 2000
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After reading Rober Hankins comments about his platen I decided to post this info. again Get yourself a piece of neo ceran glass at a glass shop probably about 3/16 in. thick and ovaerlay your platen useing either some silicon , J.B. Weld or what I like best is two layers of two way tape that does not contain the cloth material. It will really last and will take heavy grinding of all sorts. If your platen has wear areas (just use a straight edge to find out )and you aren't dealing with it you are going to have all sorts of wonderfully ugely problems trying to grind a flat blade. Sure hope this helps someone. Frank Niro
 
Thanks Frank,

This really will help not only with making sure the platen is flat but I was also wanting to make the platen just slightly thinner (not as wide) to cut down on changing the tracking from side to side.

Great suggestion,

Bob Sigmon :D
 
Thanks Frank,

This really will help not only with making sure the platen is flat but I was also wanting to make the platen just slightly thinner (not as wide) to cut down on changing the tracking from side to side.

Great suggestion,

Bob Sigmon :D
 
Get yourself a piece of neo ceran glass at a glass shop
Click to expand...

Having looked for nero ceran and several glass shops and none knowing what I was talking about, I found that asking for the glass that is in furnaces or wood burning stoves usually gets you what you are looking for.
 
Yep, just got back from the local glass shop and they had no idea what neo ceran glass was. I'll try again with the fireplace glass concept. They tried to use tempered glass but the edges are very touchy with tempered. Oh well......

Bob Sigmon
 
Sorry guys. Yes the thing to ask for maybe even first is the fireplace glass, and by the way it will be a little yellow or orange color.Frank Niro
 
It is called Cero Ceran in my area, but all the glass shops have it.

I bought the first two pieces at one shop, they charged me $7 for the pair, because they slightly relieved the ends for me.

I bought the next piece at a different shop, and thinking it was cheap, didn't ask the cost. The fella went and cut it, relieved the ends, and brought it back with a bill for $32.

Be sure and ask if they have SCRAP pieces.

The first piece broke and cracked at the first use, and tiny pieces broke away. The platen wasn't completely flat, and I must have stressed it a little clamping it for the epoxy to dry.

The second piece went on a friend's platen, and is still working fine.

The third piece went on my platen after paying a machine shop $50 for milling it flat. I attached it to the flat platen with JB Weld, and it cracked after the third use. This time you can't feel the crack even with a sharp scribe, it just makes me nervous being cracked. I have been using it cracked for about a year, with no signs of wear or dips.

Good stuff, in my opinion.

Dave
 
... or what I like best is two layers of two way tape that does not contain the cloth material.
Click to expand...
Frank,
Are you using the clear or the foam(vice cloth)two sided tape?
Thanks, Greg
 
When you guys are placeing this glass on your platens, are you setting the platens back to account for the thickness of the glass, or are you just letting the belt bow out over the glass?

Thanks
Bill
 
Even with a horse and a half dc motor anytime I did some grinding with my platent it slowed the grinder down and I could easily stop it if I pushed hard. I all but quit trying to flat grind till I took a 2" wide by 1/4" thick piece of 440c and sanded it thru 600 grit, drilled and counter sunk holes to attach it to the platent with flat head screws, and then hardened it. Works great without dragging down the speed and since it's the same width as the belt I don't waste lots of time playing with the tracking.
 
The tape I am using is white color. But as I said does not have the fabric or cloth in it. Like other people I smetimes run my grinder for hours.I have been running this piece for a couple of years. My knife making friends are using the same with the same success. By the way I tried the 440-C hardened thing years ago. Not even near the lasting life of the fireplace glass. Yes Bruce I adjust my belt position to allow for the thickness of the glass but it still drags over the top and bottom edges. Frank Niro.
 
Interesting, a while back I tried normal glass and both pieces I tried cracked. I'm tapering tangs with a magnet, and my 100 lbs pull magnet gets attracted to the platen when using 220-grit belt, and it jams the belt and stops the motor. :mad: Hopefully I won't burn my motor out by tapering tangs with that magnet. It isn't bad when I use a thicker belt, but with the thinner weight belts, it pulls to the platen. Time to get some neo ceran I guess.
 
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