Please educate me about Case CV

Mongo

Mongo

Joined
Nov 5, 2001
Messages
8,969
Greetings all, I recently acquired a Case Russlock with yellow delrin scales and CV blade steel, courtesy of the generous Leatherbird's pirate contest.
So, this being my first Case AND my first CV blade... I've attempted to do a little research. I had some poor luck trying to navigate Case's website for some reason, and couldn't find enough here and at KF.
What models/patterns come in CV? What IS CV? (or close enough to it). It seems to sharpen like a combination of 1095 and D2 to my uneducated senses. I was able to put a pretty good edge on it, and it absolutely sailed through a stack of cardboard the other garbage/recycle night.
As far as the actual knife goes, the Russlock pattern is kinda growing on me. I originally didn't care for it when I saw pics, but I kinda like it now. It's easy to open, and I like the looks of the yellow delrin. The Walker liner lock is very secure, with no blade play. The blade is not centered when it closes, but I am not bothered by that.
I had a sheeple moment today with this knife... I used it to open a box in front of one of my employees. She remarked in an incredulous tone: "You carry a knife?" I replied "Yes, how else am I going to open this box? God didn't bless me with fangs or talons":rolleyes: :(
 
How much extra care do you need to take with a CV blade in comparison to stainless (as far as rust protection, sharpening, etc)?
 
sci said:
How much extra care do you need to take with a CV blade in comparison to stainless (as far as rust protection, sharpening, etc)?
Click to expand...

Not a great deal, the best thing to do with Case CV is use it. Case CV doesn't tend to rust as easy as straight 1095. Let it start naturally turning a darker color which is called a "patina" once it does that it resist rust even better...my favorite way to help this alone is use the knife to cut apples to eat.

CV will usually sharpen a little easier than stainless and depending on the stainless might not hold an edge as long, but in real world use I doubt it's enough to notice.
 
CV's a great user because it takes and keeps an edge better than nearly all SS! OH and congrats BTW!. Just wipe it down with 3-in-1(or any decent tool lube)a little more often than you would SS. You will see a silvery~grey patina after some use which is desired and normal.. Enjoy it!
 
Perfect timing on this thread for me. i just received a Case CV slim trapper single blade with red jigged bone scales. I had all the same questions about CV. Thank you all for the info!
 
sci said:
How much extra care do you need to take with a CV blade in comparison to stainless (as far as rust protection, sharpening, etc)?
Click to expand...

The amount of extra care in real world conditions is very, very neglegable. Of all the old watermen I knew back on the bay, I knew alot that would force a patina on a knife soon as it was bought. The patina would work to protect the steel the same way a good blue works to protect a gun. It's actually a thin layer of controled corrosion, and one other anology would be it works like a good suntan will protect you somewhat from a bad burn, unlike a pale turist going to Florida for a winter vacation and staying out on the beach without a ton of sunblock.

Theres many ways to patina a knife overnight, the mustard treatment, vinigar, apple slicing, and stuck in a potato overnight.

Look at alot of very old butcher knives at flea markets. Some have blades ranging from medium grey to almost black, but very few are rusty. Let it stain and darken with time. All you have to do to maintain a carbon blade is to just wipe it off now and then. Think of it like this, all the ancient explorers and sailors, with very little effort kept their old carbon steel swords, knives, flintlocks, from rusting on a sailing ship crossing the oceans of the world. Talk about a corrosive environment! Let alone the old mountain men of the west in the 1820's engaged in the fur trade. When I was at the fur trade museum in Colorado in 2000, I saw alot of old Russell, IXL, and other brand old skinning knives that were all a dark charcoal grey, as well as some very good examples of Samual Hawkins rifles on display. All were in good condition considering the conditions they were used in. I guess they just wiped them down now and then. Thats all we have to do.

Last summer I used my yellow handle carbon soddie as my fishing knife on the outings with my grandkids. Between the fish guts and water it's turned a real nice grey with irridasant blue streaks on the blade. Makes for a nice contrast with the yellow handles.:)
 
I hear it said (either here or another forum that you can accelerate patina formation by sticking the blade into a potato and leaving it at least 24 hrs. I have never tried it on my own though. Just another thought....but yup I agree daily use is best for any knife...that is why I rotate what I carry
 
I tend to put a patina on my carbon blades as opposed to keeping them oiled. If I have a blade that seems to love to take on rust, I treat it with heated apple cider vinegar. This will pretty much turn the blade black, but the darkness dissipates somewhat with use.

If I don't need to be that extreme, I just use it as a fruit knife for a little while. After cutting through a half dozen apples and/or pears, it's got a nice mellow patina. I have a little girl who likes her fruit sliced for her so I have plenty of opportunity in this regard.

Incidentally, Case CV is my favorite steel. The combination of sharpenability and edge holding are unmatched in my opinion.
 
I don't buy Case knives anymore unless it has CV blades. They are traditional and beautiful when used and a natural patina is formed. My yellow handle Sodbuster Jr. is one of my all time favorite knives. I wipe mine with 3-n-1 oil usually twice a week since I use it alot.
 
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