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Please help a Noob sharpen. (Seeking Advice)

heefageLA

heefageLA

Joined
Feb 2, 2015
Messages
1,783
Hello forum gods!
Ive been collecting Ontario's products for about two years now.

My list is as follows:

Air Force Survival (leather handle)
Trench knife (leather handle)
RD 9 (orange handle)
RD 7 (orange handle)
Afghan RBS (orange handle)
Little Bird (black handle)
Rat I (tan handle w/ black blade)
RD Hawk II (black handle)

I bought a Lansky sharpener with the rods and the vice that holds the blade.
It works really well on the thinner thickness blades. but the thicker 1/4'' blades, not so much.

My question is, is their a guided sharpener out there that works well on really thick blades?

The obvious answer is, Learn to sharpen yourself!
But, I really like the consistency of a guided system.

Please chim in if you have any suggestions or opinions.
Thanks fellas!
 
heefageLA said:
Hello forum gods!
Ive been collecting Ontario's products for about two years now.

My list is as follows:

Air Force Survival (leather handle)
Trench knife (leather handle)
RD 9 (orange handle)
RD 7 (orange handle)
Afghan RBS (orange handle)
Little Bird (black handle)
Rat I (tan handle w/ black blade)
RD Hawk II (black handle)

I bought a Lansky sharpener with the rods and the vice that holds the blade.
It works really well on the thinner thickness blades. but the thicker 1/4'' blades, not so much.

My question is, is their a guided sharpener out there that works well on really thick blades?

The obvious answer is, Learn to sharpen yourself!
But, I really like the consistency of a guided system.

Please chim in if you have any suggestions or opinions.
Thanks fellas!
Click to expand...

Edge pro apex:thumbup:
 
I use a sharp maker with the extra fine rods followed by a strop. I can't imagine needing it any sharper than that. I do all my blades on it with equal success.
 
Without seeing what is happening, this is just a guess; but perhaps you need to use a different angle on the thicker blades. Try using a black magic mark along the blade angle, to see if you are making proper contact as you sharpen (or attempt to sharpen).
 
hhmoore said:
Without seeing what is happening, this is just a guess; but perhaps you need to use a different angle on the thicker blades. Try using a black magic mark along the blade angle, to see if you are making proper contact as you sharpen (or attempt to sharpen).
Click to expand...


Thanks for the feedback. The problem with the thick blades on the lansky is that the vice doesn't hold them level, and the blade sits 'cocked' to one side or the other. So, every time I resharpen I have to find the old spot where the vice had hold of the blade.
 
If it's a thick knife and you're not following the factory bevel angle, you'll take a longer time to form an apex as there's a lot more material to take off with the thicker knife.

Are you using the sharpie method?

One thing I learned too with the Lansky is to not use too much pressure, just start with the right coarseness and make the back and forth take the metal off.

Good luck
 
I'm not sure I understand your problem. The lansky needs to be clamped on to the blade the same way every time to keep a consistent result, and that's kind of its whole point. Some blades are harder to clamp than others, but as long as you are careful in keeping the clamp halves parallel, you shouldn't be having the blades come off center. Next question, are you trying to clamp all you knives just at the spine? or are you coming all the way in to the bevel. That may be causing some trouble as you will be fighting against the leverage and weight of the larger knives.

There is no shame in using a guided system, free-hand isn't for everyone. If you do want to go towards free-hand, I would think a blade guide system like the edge pro or another similar one would be a good start as it shows you how the blade looks on a flat stone.
 
With the lansky, I try and clamp the spine of the blade as close to the edge of the clamp as possible.

Im really interested in the edge pro, but for $250 it seems a little ridiculous.
Hell, you can get a Grizzly grinder with jigs and a strop for that amount.
 
ah, with larger blades, the front edge of the clamp should line up with the start of the bevel. This is tough on full flat grind knives, but I don't think you have any really big ones. That will give the clamp more leverage. If you do that, you are also going to have the stone at a steeper angle than it was before, but in your place I would just work on the edge at the angle you've already chosen instead of re-profiling again, and just treat it like a micro-bevel for a while.
 
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