Please Help-Need some quick responses

brewcitymike

brewcitymike

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Aug 26, 2011
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I just bought a can of Klean Strip to strip by BK9 and I chose this stripper because I saw it strip the head of a C.S. Trailhawk like it was hot water washing ketchup off a plate(pardon the analogy). The guy let it sit for about 15 mins and then tossed it in a bucket of water and the coating just slid right off. He hardly had to even touch it to remove and stubborn areas. Well I let my BK9 sit for that same amount of time and tossed it in my basement sink full of water and NOTHING happened! I can see through the coating at the grind lines and thats it. I even used a scraper on it a bit and nothing came off. I cleaned it up and sprayed it again with the stripper and its been on now for about 20 mins. Should I leave it longer? What else can I do afterward? Am I missing a step or an ingredient or something? Let me know what to do, Im new at this and I sure as hell don't want to ruin my Becker.
 
You won't hurt the knife. You might have to let it sit overnight even.
 
When I stripped my 9 I used the Klean-strip and let it sit for about 20 min. A wire brush will help break up stubborn coating. Then you can use your scraper, no problem. Inhale....exhale....inhale...now you're on your own with the breathing, but don't be scared to use the stripper more than once and let it sit for extended time.
 
I don’t think you’re going to ruin your knife by scraping the epoxy coating off. Patience is a virtue when modding. Fast work = fast mistakes. Slow and steady (especially if you take a Dremel to it). Even after stripping my 7 there was a “film” on it that is easily taken off by some light sanding. I did notice that if you go slow most of the mistakes you make can be fixed. Haul ass with a Dremel tool and you get to look at the giant scrape down the side of your knife. Food for thought.
 
Stripper won't do anything to steel. Just let it sit and do its work.

I just tried to strip my EDC flashlight, a Fenix LD10 a few hours ago (I have a can of FLUX here, which is basically the nastiest industry grade stuff I could find at work), and the stripper didn't do jack sh*t to the coating. I guess it's hand stripping on this one :(
 
Well its been 'stripping' for about an hour now. I guess I'll let it sit quite a while and then wash it off again. I sent a buddy to get me a wire brush and some extremely fine grit paper to hand sand it. I'm actually waiting for a call from a guy on whether or not he will make me some nice g10 scales for my bk9, though I may change my mind if the price if too high.
 
When I stripped my 2 I dropped it in and used an old knife to barely scrape off the coating while it was in the solution and it sped up the process a lot.I'm sort of impatient..
 
yeah brother I'd say it's impossible to predict how stripper will work. I used the same can on a trail hawk, warthog, bk2, and bk11... in each case with drastically different results. several I had to finish off with sandpaper.
 
What grit paper did you use? My closed store with a hardware section is Wal Mart and the finest they stock is a variety pack of 220/300/400, yet one guy said he used 1000 which I can't say I've ever even seen. Also what can I do to somewhat get a shine or like a dull satin finish? Any specific polish or something? Has anyone ever had the idea to paint the blade to make it a cooler color, like a slate blue? I wonder is Rusto would work and how long before it would start coming off. I saw a blueish gray knife with the same color handle scale and it looks so sweet, but I'm sure they did it with some high end coating or something like that
 
Ace hardware around here has 1500 grit, which gets pretty close to mirror finish. You may want to order some finer grit online if there's no hardware stores around. It's useful stuff. I use a piece of old mousepad to assist with my sanding.
 
brewcitymike said:
What grit paper did you use? My closed store with a hardware section is Wal Mart and the finest they stock is a variety pack of 220/300/400, yet one guy said he used 1000 which I can't say I've ever even seen. Also what can I do to somewhat get a shine or like a dull satin finish? Any specific polish or something? Has anyone ever had the idea to paint the blade to make it a cooler color, like a slate blue? I wonder is Rusto would work and how long before it would start coming off. I saw a blueish gray knife with the same color handle scale and it looks so sweet, but I'm sure they did it with some high end coating or something like that
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Wal-Mart usually has some wet-dry sandpaper in 400,800,1000,and 2000 back in the automotive section with the bondo.
 
maethor said:
I just tried to strip my EDC flashlight, a Fenix LD10 a few hours ago (I have a can of FLUX here, which is basically the nastiest industry grade stuff I could find at work), and the stripper didn't do jack sh*t to the coating. I guess it's hand stripping on this one :(
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those are anodized, and sometimes, hard-anodized... it's bonded to the metal in a way that a chemical agent is likely to not remove. hah.

if you can remove it, you risk damageing the metal and nubs...

on the flip size, good project to use some of those extreme gun paints on. might as well just leave the base coat for added insurance...

there's a gun company that parkerizes and/or phosphate-bronzes everything THEN ceracoats it. extreme :) acid or base shouldn't bother that i would think.
 
I just striped my 7 with clean strip and it worked like a dream. It did take a few applications to get the job done and I let it set for a half hour each session, plastic scraper in between. I used a different striper to strip my 2 and it didn't even make a dent in it, I ended up sanding almost the whole finish by hand. Ya know sometimes the ones that come the hardest you'll appreciate the most when they are done...
 
brewcitymike said:
Well its been 'stripping' for about an hour now. I guess I'll let it sit quite a while and then wash it off again.
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I used the same stuff to strip my BK2 and was also disappointed after the 15 minutes I waited, per the instructions on the can. In my limited experience with the stuff the longer you let it sit, the shorter the time you'll spend fussing to get the rest of the coating off. I used a wire brush after I got the majority off and it was pretty simple, think I let it sit for a good hour or more. Like others have said, I don't think you could ruin the knife despite how nasty the stuff is for you body.

For me the only PITA part was getting around the skeletonized handle -- of course now I know better and will just leave the coating on the handle for any future projects.

Out of curiosity, what's your plan for the finish once it's stripped? Patina? Mirror Finish?
 
i let mine sit in the stripper for bout 20 mins, then hit it with a paint scraper, almost no trouble at all, couple stubborn spots but a little more stripper and a couple minutes , hit it with a dremel with a wire tip, it was stripped clean.
 
maethor said:
I just tried to strip my EDC flashlight, a Fenix LD10 a few hours ago (I have a can of FLUX here, which is basically the nastiest industry grade stuff I could find at work), and the stripper didn't do jack sh*t to the coating. I guess it's hand stripping on this one :(
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That'd be the anodization talking, it's not a coating, it's basically polished, colored, intentional rust. Stripper doesn't affect it at all.
Bladite is right though, good excuse to try Duracoat.
 
Use that sprayable stripper stuff by Klean-Strip (it's a type of gel), and it shouldn't take more than once. That stuff is crazy strong.
 
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