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POINTMANDDT · Apr 15, 2009

GregS · Apr 15, 2009

Typical of CE blades, not to worry. They rust a lot, I use Never Dull metal polish and/or some 2000 grit sandpaper for the heavier rust. Oil them before storage, a light coating of wd40 does the trick... for me.

Edit: Upon closer inspection of the pictures I have come to the conclusion that you had better send it to me, for further conclusions...

RoNNiE · Apr 15, 2009

It appears to be a stripped coated blade(could be wrong). The black looks like the decarb layer between the blade and the coating. Steel wool should remove it or fine grit sandpaper and store it with a light coating of oil.

UDDwaine · Apr 15, 2009

My Comp HR has the decarb (black stuff) but no rust, but my Comp Sarsquatch has no decarb but has some lihgt rust. You will see both with the comp blades.

grey menace · Apr 15, 2009

Use the heck out of it , it helps keep rust off!

kdstrick · Apr 15, 2009

RoNNiE said:
It appears to be a stripped coated blade(could be wrong). The black looks like the decarb layer between the blade and the coating. Steel wool should remove it or fine grit sandpaper and store it with a light coating of oil.

Negative. It isn't stripped. It came that way from Busse.

The 2008 Special editions had the "competition finish" which does indeed have the layer of decarb. The decarb will rust. It is very common to see this in the competition finished knives.

It is important to know that it is not the INFI steel that is rusting, but the decarb coating the INFI. The decarb can be removed with a bit 3M sanding wheel and some elbow-grease. Fine sandpaper will also work.

Still... I'd be kind of put-out if I bought a knife that wasn't aptly described. The seller should have informed you of the condition.

kdstrick · Apr 15, 2009

Here ya go... from the Janitor himself... http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=572366&highlight=decarb&page=2

Jerry Busse said:
The comp blades still have a layer of de-carb on them from the heat treat process. . . .That's the black or darker colored steel that you see above the edge. . . De-carb is very prone to rusting on pretty much any steel. . . If you remove it by either grinding or double cutting, then you have the real INFI steel surface and not the modified surface of the de-carb.

INFI has similar rust resistance to ATS-34 and D-2 due to the carbon to chromium ratio. . .

Make sense? If not. . . then you need to drink more!!!!!

Jerry

.

Bravado · Apr 15, 2009

I got a CFJH from someone that had similar rust, I wiped mine down with a Tuff Cloth and I could swear it diminished the rust and no longer is rusting.

dobywon · Apr 15, 2009

Like others have said it is the comp finish and it looks new to me. The comp finish blades are raw infi with little to no finishing to them. They tend to look a little rough but I can guarantee they are just as tough as the rest.

Use a silicone gun rag to wipe it down with and you will be gtg!!

Now quite worrying and go use your new Busse.

Jaxx · Apr 15, 2009

POINTMANDDT, Chuck wouldn't risk his very solid reputation trying to pull one over on you.

I also just sold one recently... But before I did, I wanted the Buyer to know what exactly the Comp Hell Razor that I was going to sell him looked like, and explain exactly why it looked this way. Others have already explained why yours looks the way it does, so I'll just post pix of the one I just sold, so you can see the similarities. The one in these pix is also new & unused/unsharpened. In the pix, you can see exactly where the de-carb ends and the real INFI begins. Note that the oxidation stops dead at this same line down near the edge where the grinding of the edge passes through this thin layer of de-carb and into the actual INFI steel, just as it does on yours. :thumbup:

These next 2 pix were taken just after working at removing the rust on top of the oxidation spots for a few minutes with 1500 grit sandpaper and Mother's metal polish for the new owner. I did what I could for him to make his task easier, then sent these photos to him with an explanation to show that the rust will not pit the INFI below the de-carb layer.

Seriously, I looked at your pix, and yours does look to be new & unused and also unsharped. Enjoy it, as it's meant to be used hard!

POINTMANDDT · Apr 15, 2009

Jax,

Thanks for the comments, I greatly appreciate them. I was kinda of feeling like I was mis-lead into thinking this was a mint cond knife. I think he should have followed your direction and told me what to expect. I just want to remove this black stuff and rust without hurting the blade. Also, this knife feels like it would be a nice thrower, being Apache Yaqui I like to throw my knives lol Is this safe to throw or could I break or chip the tip?

Thanks again

MustardMan · Apr 15, 2009

If you break a Busse doing something as tame as throwing it at a piece of wood, I'd say it is a pretty good bet it will be replaced. Their awesome lifetime warranty is one of the most appealing features of the Busse family brands.

Jaxx · Apr 16, 2009

POINTMANDDT said:
Jax,

Thanks for the comments, I greatly appreciate them. I was kinda of feeling like I was mis-lead into thinking this was a mint cond knife. I think he should have followed your direction and told me what to expect. I just want to remove this black stuff and rust without hurting the blade. Also, this knife feels like it would be a nice thrower, being Apache Yaqui I like to throw my knives lol Is this safe to throw or could I break or chip the tip?

Thanks again

I can't really blame Chuck (1whobuys), but I see your point. Sometimes we, and by "we", I mean those of us that are really into Busse knives and who frequent this Forum on a regular basis can occasionally forget when we list knives, that an interested Buyer may not know what we know, and so we forget to include more information that helps them to learn what we know. Also, this Competition-edge series is the first time Jerry experimented with leaving on this thin de-carb layer AFAIK, which again may cause us to forget to note this in our sales threads.

Basically, what we have here is a lesson to be learned on both sides...
The Buyer's side: Do your homework.
The Seller's side: Remember to be more descriptive.

You have a great knife. The Hell Razor is a fantastic model, and yours has an incredible edge and a unique look. You can leave it "ugly", or customize it to look any way you want... satinize it, put a patina on it, beadblast it, or leave it as is. Whichever way you choose, it's all Busse, and it's designed for hard use.

:thumbup:

As for throwing... It depends on what you throw it at, and what it hits. Wood? Shouldn't be a problem, If you were to miss and hit a rock? You might break a bit off the tip or take a small piece out of the edge. INFI is wonderful steel, but it isn't invincible... Just darn close!

Most throwing knives have a lower Rockwell hardness to withstand the occasional miss, but I know that a few Busse owners enjoy throwing their knives, and with good results. :thumbup:

To remove the de-carb, try hand sanding the blade with a fine grit wet/dry sandpaper, and finish it with some metal polish or Tuff Cloth. I use a Comp edge SARsquatch that I only used metal polish on a few times, and although all of the de-carb isn't gone, it has slowed the oxidation on those parts considerably. Keep the blade oiled in between use to slow down oxidation, and make it easier to remove when the occasional spot pops up. Remember, it isn't the INFI rusting, just this very thin de-carb layer. :thumbup:

Bigfattyt · Apr 16, 2009

I have seen a lot of people sell ce versions as mint with spots. I would not expect to buy one without spots, but I have seen them out there. I just know what the knives are, and would not expect anyone to have to tell me. However, I would not sell a knife with spots without good photos and at least a cursory explanation.

I think sometimes we assume that everyone knows what we know. If I bought a CE version, I would for sure remove all the decarb. That is one really great thing about infi is how easy care it is. You kind of loose that with the CE versions if you don't put in a bit of elbow grease. I hope they keep putting out ugly ce versions with the dimples. I would just like to see them make a few passes over a wire buffer, or something to toss all that decarb off.

Rat Finkenstein · Apr 16, 2009

Throw that sucker.

RoNNiE · Apr 16, 2009

Like I said "could be wrong",,,,,,,, and apparently I was. That comp finish just looks stripped to me. Probably why I don't own the hellrazor or jackhammer in that finish. Congrats on your score :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: sand an oil it,,,,,,,,,,, then beat the daylights out of it ,,,,cuz thats what it's made for !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Careful what you throw it at,,,,,,, might go right through,,,,,lmao

silverdragon33 · Apr 16, 2009

POINTMANDDT said:
Jax,

Thanks for the comments, I greatly appreciate them. I was kinda of feeling like I was mis-lead into thinking this was a mint cond knife. I think he should have followed your direction and told me what to expect. I just want to remove this black stuff and rust without hurting the blade. Also, this knife feels like it would be a nice thrower, being Apache Yaqui I like to throw my knives lol Is this safe to throw or could I break or chip the tip?

Thanks again

the HR is an amazing thrower