Please help on hand polishing

D

David2584

Joined
Oct 10, 1999
Messages
593
I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers on hand polishing a blade. I already did a search and found great tips, but I've found that there are many conflicting opinions. In the Tactical Folder book by Bob T, it says to sand lengthwise only. However, others say to alternate directions on each level of grit. To make things more complicated, some say the final grit should always be only done lengthwise while others say start the short way and then go long.

In addition, how many people sand the blade with one sheet lying on the table and one on the sanding block? I read using double sided tape works, but I fear it will slide around.

I did a hand sand on my 710, but I'm not sure as to how close I am to finishing. It took forever and I finished with a 1500 grit but it still looks scratched.
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Heres a pic of it:
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Please give me some pointers, thanks.
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Dave

My collection

[This message has been edited by David2584 (edited 11-29-2000).]
 
Hi David, It's not that difficult. As a sanding block, I use an aluminum slat about 2" by 12" by 1/2" thick. On one side I glued a piece of 10oz leather. I start with 150 then 320 then 600 grit. Use the hard side of the block for a coarse cutting action. I sand lengthwise mostly. I check to see if the previous grits scratches are gone by sanding at a 45 degree angle. They show up quite nicely. To sand the plunge cut, I let the sandpaper overlap the end of the bar a bit and then while holding the bar at a slight angle, repeatedly push the end into the cut. When I finally get down to 600 grit, I start using the leather side of my bar. I spray a little wd40 or 3in1 oil on my blade and start rubbing using only one spot on the sandpaper until the portion is worn right out. Then I move to another fresh sandpaper spot and repeat the process. I've found that using the leather side of the block really brings out an excellent shine and eliminates "fishhook" scratches on the blade. Also, when you keep sanding on the same spot on the sandpaper, even after it seems worn out, you can achieve a finish that you can see your reflection in. Haven't gone over 600 yet. I imagine it would look nice. Sorry for the long winded reply!

Hugh

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President of Knifemakers Anonymous - "The sickness can be cured!" Call 1-800-cutfingers

[This message has been edited by 3/16th's (edited 11-30-2000).]

[This message has been edited by 3/16th's (edited 11-30-2000).]
 
I could write a book on this subject, There is really no correct way to polish a blade, with the qualifier being that you get the results you expect I use a surface plate or a block of wood that fits my purpose and kerosene with al/ox paper of diminishing grit then work to a finer finish with a business card and diamond paste, also in degrees of diminishing grits until I get the mirror finish I desire, then I find all the deep scratches and start all over again with the same routine. It sometimes takes me 2 weeks to polish out a blade and I usually could get away with most any crime where finger prints can incriminate onesself as most of mine are gone by then.
Ron Appleton
 
If you can handsand to 1500 grit, you can go to 12000 too. Micromesh makes sheeths till 12000, which is not noticably different from mirror polish.
Personaly, I only use micromesh for handle (pins). I start buffing from 800 or 1000 grit. Works easy to get a mirror polish, just check if the scratches of the bigger grit size are all goen like described above. A 320 grit scratch is small, but does stick out on a mirrorpolish.

greetz, Bart.

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"If the world wouldn't SUCK, we'd all fall off !"

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