Please help on sharpening a Busse

[mike3]

Hi fellas, I could use some help here so I don't screw up my new Busse HR! I was checking a few sites on how to sharpen convex grind and basically it seems you draw the entire bevel over the strop lightly pressing the whole blade surface into the strop... as in this one from swiss army knives

http://www.mhcable.com/~yocraft/sosak/convex.htm

But on a Busse knife with a finish on it this will certainly wear off the finish over the whole blade surface (which might look even weirder on an HR with the corrugations)! I've read up other sites about acheiving the right angle (which is what I've always been concerned w/in the past, though I've often messed this up as well!) but on a convex grind you don't want to put an angle on it? This website discusses angling the blade, which sounds good, but maybe is a bad idea on a convex grind?

http://ludlowsurvivors.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=108

So basically, on a Busse, you wear down the whole bevel or do you angle the blade? I'm sorry if I sound like an idiot! Thanks again.

Mike

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Some convex knives have the edge not distinct from the primary grind so you can't tell where one stops and the other starts, if you want to maintain this profile you have to sharpen the entire the entire blade, it is really time consuming unless you have power equipment.

I have not handled a Hell Raisor, but you really don't want to try that type of grinding on INFI, and on any coated blades in general. Sharpen the actual edge bevel, the part that isn't coated. Matching the curvature isn't as hard as you might imagine on a flat stone, but is easier if you use something with some give like leather.

Busse sells a variable tension strop which is ideal for that kind of edge geometry. You can also just apply a v-bevel right over the top of the existing grind.

-Cliff