Plumb Michigan Cruiser 3.2 replacement

[mnblueliner]

Hi Folks,

I own a 3.2 Michigan Cruiser made by PLUMB and it was my Grandpas. My Dad remembers it being around as a kid and he's now 86. The head is in great shape and it is by far my favorite axe. Believe it or not, the handle is original but it is giving up the ghost. So I am beginning my mission to replace the handle.

I have not removed the handle from the head yet (this is going to be a chore, someone who shall be unnamed put epoxy around the head near the handle). Initial measurements look like the top of the eye is 3" on the button and on the bottom, something like 3 1/8" ...

Has anyone gone through this recently (with this model)? Is there a preferred handle supplier or a known to close handle for this head? I wish there were more stamps on the head so I could learn more but I see very little. Any and all helpful advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for due consideration.

 

[Hickory n steel]

How long is the handle?
If the head is marked 3.2 that's not typically going to be a cruiser , they're typically 2.5lb

 

[mnblueliner]

How long is the handle?
If the head is marked 3.2 that's not typically going to be a cruiser , they're typically 2.5lb

The current handle, from top of the head, to toe is 35.5" The term "michigan cruiser" was just what I was told but nevertheless, advice appreciated on securing a handle.


I'll include a picture.

 

[rjdankert]

88-year-old ad:

Bob

 

[garry3]

Ignore the epoxy and drive the head off the old haft the same direction it went on, out the top of the head. Heat will soften epoxy, but it just fails anyway.

 

[Hickory n steel]

The current handle, from top of the head, to toe is 35.5" The term "michigan cruiser" was just what I was told but nevertheless, advice appreciated on securing a handle.


I'll include a picture.

Okay, yes this is a full sized felling axe.
A cruiser is a 2.5lb double bit axe with a handle that's typically 28" long.
You'll want a handle for a full sized axe, and a handle you find will need to be fitted to the eye.

 

[mnblueliner]

Ignore the epoxy and drive the head off the old haft the same direction it went on, out the top of the head. Heat will soften epoxy, but it just fails anyway.

is this done by striking the head? if so, the bottom is quite rounded. Or striking the handle from the top of the head?

 

[mnblueliner]

88-year-old ad:

Bob

that looks spot on except the handle on mine is flush cut. the handle shapre otherwise is also a mirror'd copy. neat. it's hard to tell from that pic if the marking on the head in the center is a sticker or brand of some sort. mine does not have that. but the lower brand is exact.

 

[mnblueliner]

is there a source people trust/prefer for this kind of handle replacement?

 

[Hickory n steel]

is there a source people trust/prefer for this kind of handle replacement?

For a single bit handle House handles and beaver tooth should be good options.
You might even find an OP Link handle at your local hardware or lowes...etc.
I'm less picky when it comes to single bit handles.

 

[garry3]

is this done by striking the head? if so, the bottom is quite rounded. Or striking the handle from the top of the head?

I cut it off a little proud of the eye and strike the haft and then switch to a bolt just big enough to fit into the eye to drive it on through.

Mr Weisberger's "An Axe To Grind" is the best how to ever made.

 

[Old Biker]

Your picture.

 

[crbnSteeladdict]

Hi Folks,

I own a 3.2 Michigan Cruiser made by PLUMB and it was my Grandpas. My Dad remembers it being around as a kid and he's now 86. The head is in great shape and it is by far my favorite axe. Believe it or not, the handle is original but it is giving up the ghost. So I am beginning my mission to replace the handle.

I have not removed the handle from the head yet (this is going to be a chore, someone who shall be unnamed put epoxy around the head near the handle). Initial measurements look like the top of the eye is 3" on the button and on the bottom, something like 3 1/8" ...

Has anyone gone through this recently (with this model)? Is there a preferred handle supplier or a known to close handle for this head? I wish there were more stamps on the head so I could learn more but I see very little. Any and all helpful advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for due consideration.

What is the reason you think you need a new handle? Can you elaborate what do you mean it is giving up the ghost, please. I have looked at your pic and I suspect new handle will be probably worse than this original one. There is still some space to drop the shoulder and rehang it on the original one. Pictures of whole handle and top down view of the eye would be helpful

 

[dirc]

C crbnSteeladdict just made the same point I was about to... the wood looks solid, if it's just drying out a bit, I suggest some full tung oil (it will penetrate & restore & perhaps darken it somewhat) or BLO

if the head is loose, you may just need a new shim in the top