Plumb Scout Axes

[boykinlp]

I just got a couple of Plumb Boy Scout Axes and thought I’d show them here.

From what I can tell, this Plumb Scout Axe is from around 1934-35. The axe head is painted black, and the Plumb logo is back by the poll, while the Boy Scout Fleur-De-Lis is stamped on the same side just above the nail slot. It has a square poll. I believe it still has its original hickory handle because it has the words "Official Scout Axe" along the side, and it uses a screw wedge. It also came with a leather sheath with “Plumb” on the snap. It is in poor condition, but I’m happy to have it anyway! I believe it’s in pretty nice condition considering it belonged to and was used by a young Boy Scout, and is around 90 years old. The handle has a little damage near the head from an over strike or two. What do you folks think I should do to it, if anything? I was thinking about wrapping the top section of the handle with paracord to cover the damage and strengthen the area. Here are some pictures of it:
Larry

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Doesn't look like it needs much done to it other than cleaning up the nicked edge!

 

[boykinlp]

I forgot to say that I guess the scout that originally owned this axe must have carved his initials (I.S.) in the handle and the sheath as well. As you can see, the sheath has some pretty severe red rot. I do like the “Plumb” snap though.
Larry

 

[boykinlp]

Here is the second one, and am very happy with its condition. I believe it is all original.

After reading the “Plumb Scout Axe Timeline”, I have gathered the following information on my new to me Scout Axe. It appears to be a 1942 Model, because at this time, they changed the word "Guaranteed" to "Genuine". So now the cheek reads "Genuine Plumb" instead of "Guaranteed Plumb". It still has the jagged line around the circle that is around the BSA stamp near the poll. This Version of the Scout Axe, known as Pattern 7, Variation 1 ran from 1941-50, continued to use the handle that got a drastic make over a few years back. That make over included the words "Official Scout Axe" being kept on the side of the handle, but the font was changed to be a little more fancy. They added paint as well: a red painted knob with a green line between the red stain and the red paint. The knob was painted red but the shape changed as well. This was the first year Plumb went to the rounded end knob. The head was black as usual with gold paint filling the stamps. Plumb continued to use the patented take-up wedge in this model until 1942 when they decided to ditch the screw wedge and just use a wooden wedge like this axe has. This was right in the middle of WWII which might have played a role in this decision. Plumb began advertising a cheaper canvas infantry sheath option alongside the leather sheath as well, and that is the sheath that this axe has.

Since I am a newbie in dealing with these, please let me know if and where I am wrong in my description. Also, is there something else that I should add to it. Thanks.
Larry

 

[boykinlp]

A few more pictures, you can still see the gold color filling in the axe head stamp.
Larry

 

[boykinlp]

Doesn't look like it needs much done to it other than cleaning up the nicked edge!

I was thinking the same thing. Would it be best to use a sharpening puck or a file?

BTW, unfortunately, the leather sheath has severe red rot, but I really like the “Plumb” snap! The sheath is already cracked and torn. A large section of stitching has ripped through and can’t be fixed, but I still like having it. I would guess the leather wasn’t as quality as the vintage holster leather that I am accustomed to. I’ll do some work on the sheath.
Larry

 

[boykinlp]

On the first axe, I definitely wouldn’t get rid of the initials on the handle, but should I sand the damage on the backside of the handle near the head, or just leave it alone? Also would hitting it with some boiled linseed oil do anything positive for it? Thanks, in advance, for any advice.
Larry

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

It looks fine to me. I wouldn't oil the wood unless you plan on actively using it. It doesn't really need it.

 

[catspa]

That’s a nice pair of hatchets you’ve got there.

If the first one was mine, I’d file it back to a fair curve and then use a stone or puck to refine the edge.

As for the overstrike damage, I’ve repaired similar with a small carving knife or trim chisel, paring off just enough to blend it into the original shape. Then I’d smooth it with a steel scraper.

Of course that would expose a stripe of fresh wood, which you’d probably try to finish to match the existing, which a close examination would discover.

I’ve worked on users this way, I’ve never had one with historical value, so you may not want to alter it from “as found”.

Parker

 

[boykinlp]

I was thinking the same thing. Would it be best to use a sharpening puck or a file?

BTW, unfortunately, the leather sheath has severe red rot, but I really like the “Plumb” snap! The sheath is already cracked and torn. A large section of stitching has ripped through and can’t be fixed, but I still like having it. I would guess the leather wasn’t as quality as the vintage holster leather that I am accustomed to. I’ll do some work on the sheath.
Larry

I worked on the sheath, and got it looking a little bit better. There’s not enough room to re-sew the sheath and be able to have the axe fit back in it. So this will have to do. I will at least keep them together.
Larry

 

[Brent Halverson]

I like the one with it's original screw-wedge. I don't actively collect boy-scout hatchets, but if a hatchet I pick up locally has the BSA markings on it that does make it more interesting. Three of the BSA hatchets I have here are Plumb and I would not use them, there are too many non-collectible old hatchets laying around that make good users, so beating up something with historical value does not make sense. I pretty much leave most of my old hatchets/ axes in as-found condition unless they are in danger from some rust or rot. I read that linseed oil can actually degrade old wood in the long run, so I quit using it on old tool handles and switched to something actually made to enhance and protect wood, it is called butcher-block oil and is available at hardware stores, but at a premium. If you want it for cheap then buy a gallon of food-grade mineral oil, same stuff but without the marketing and branding, and it is great for wood and also will protect metal.

Also on my old Plumb tools with the screw-wedge, I make sure the screw is a bit loose while it is in storage and not being used. This is because if you keep tightening it then as the tool goes through humidity and temperature changes, the wood will expand and contract and chronically need tightening. I also leave the screws for the handles on old iron wood-planes and hand-saws a bit loose unless they need to be used.

Try to find out who's initials those are. It is always cool if you know who used a tool when it was new. I have been able to find quite a bit of history of a lot of old tools that have past owner's markings, some of them I have even been able to give to the descendants of the original owner of the tool. Of the three BSA Plumbs I have here, one of them was owned new by an old friend I used to work with who was a boy-scout back in the 1940s, I got it after he passed away a few years ago. Another one belonged to my late father, he was not in the boy-scouts, but just liked old tools and sometimes picked them up if he ran across them at a yard sale etc.. And the third is just something that was laying at a yard sale I stopped at. They are from three different eras from pre-WWII to maybe the late 50s or early 60s, I have forgotten a few things about them.

 

[Old Axeman]

Linseed oil can degrade old wood ? What is your source on that misinformation ? The U S Forest Service, Forest Products Lab scientists developed a wood preservative to be used on old wood called FPL. FPL is made up of three components - Linseed Oil, Turpentine, and Wax. I like a combination of Raw Linseed Oil, Pure Gum Turpentine, and Bees Wax.

TRY NOT TO POST SO MUCH MISINFORMATION ON THIS SITE !

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Mineral oil is non-drying and you do NOT want to use it on old tool handles--it will forever feel wet to the hands and can cause the wood to go spongey if used excessively. Furthermore mineral oil should not be used on any wood that you want to preserve for posterity. It is used for cutting boards and butcher's blocks because it is food-safe and won't go rancid, and helps keep the wood from becoming worn from frequent washing but it has almost exclusively negative effects on tool handles, which are much longer-lived when properly cared for than the expected service life of a cutting board. Completely different context of use, and a drying oil like linseed, tung oil, etc. are going to be better choices, as once the oil dries it locks in the passive moisture in the wood to keep it from becoming overly dried out and brittle with age.

 

[Brent Halverson]

Mineral oil is non-drying and you do NOT want to use it on old tool handles--it will forever feel wet to the hands and can cause the wood to go spongey if used excessively.

Ooooh, then I guess the big secret would be not to use it excessively huh? If the handle needs oil, and you do not put it in excessively, there is no problem then. I guess you should stay away from using it though if it is that hard for you to figure out.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

The secret is to not use it at all. As I said, it's a non-drying oil. A drying oil is better. Mineral oil will always remain wet to the touch, so even when not used to the point where it causes the wood to go spongey it's still FAR FAR inferior as a handle finish to drying oils. I cannot in any circumstance recommend it as a finish for tool handles. I'm unsure where you got the misinformation about linseed oil being damaging to wood but this is simply incorrect.