Recommendation? Plunge Line Grind Issue

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KillerGriller

Joined
Sep 4, 2018
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Long story short, tried to create a plunge line like the picture on the upper left, but messed up on the other side and ended up with one side as almost a full grind (lower left).

32486338147_d0bf799d92_o.jpg


I'm looking for suggestions on how to fix or equalize them to match nicely, I'm not sure if I've gone too far with the grind to get back to the original idea or not? Blue - line curved plunge, green - full grind, yellow - reverse curve grind? Other?

What do you think?
 
I would just turn it into a full height convex grind then try again on another knife. Use this as a learning experience instead of chasing your original design.
 
ChristoDart said:
I would just turn it into a full height convex grind then try again on another knife. Use this as a learning experience instead of chasing your original design.
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I hadn't con sidered that, thanks for the feedback.

It's DEFINITELY a learning experience...:D
 
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If you have a surface grinder or surface grinder attachment use it to grind the flats back on the one side. That will bring the grind line down on the one side that's higher.
If you don't have either of those you can grind the flats back by grinding the blade length wise on your flat platen holding the blade with a handle magnet like this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magne...53102807&rnid=2941120011&s=industrial&sr=1-27
 
I use a welding magnet and the platen. Dont take much to drop the grind back down
 
Dont know how much time you want to put in to it but you can make a jig to do anything. I made a jig that hovered over a belt grinder.

With out making a jig I can't keep ANY thing straight
 
Frozen Bear Trading said:
Dont know how much time you want to put in to it but you can make a jig to do anything. I made a jig that hovered over a belt grinder.

With out making a jig I can't keep ANY thing straight
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I would love to see a picture of that hover jig.
I got a woodworking background so a jig seems normal to me but for knifemaking you will always be limited to what the jig can do. Get a handful of belts and a few bars of steel and give freehanding a shot, be willing to throw a bunch in the junk drawer. It will come to you after a while and once you get the hang of it you can probably go back and fix most of the ones in the drawer. I started with a jig but am so glad I was talked into trying it freehanded.
 
I tried using a shop magnet to hold the piece, however it wasn't strong enough to maintain decent pressure and I ended up gouging the blank when the connection let go, I could give it another (more cautious) though.

I'd rather go freehand than use a jig, the learning curve is hard but worth it in the long run from what I've read.

Thanks for the help folks; practice makes perfect, but the suggestions on how to work with/around certain situations is helpful as well.
 
practice, flat-grind handle w/ magnet, or adjust design. You've got all the options. And practice is going to be a constant. You'll get it.

Looks like that blade might have an edge or proto-edge on it? You want to keep the piece dull while you're working on it. If those are just lead-in bevels, no worry. Edge is the very very very last thing you want to do to the piece. Even after the sheath is a good idea.
 
Yep, I'd say just finish it up as best you can, heat treat and throw some wood slabs on for a handle and just use it as a shop knife or as a testing knife. Test edge retention with different edge geometries, and after testing it you could even break it to check for grain refinement. all good things can be learned by messing up.

Cheers
 
daizee said:
Looks like that blade might have an edge or proto-edge on it? You want to keep the piece dull while you're working on it. If those are just lead-in bevels, no worry.
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Cheers, I'm trying to keep an edge off until after HT, but I'm sure while trying to finesse the bevel I've gotten closer to it than intended.

tr3yanderson said:
Yep, I'd say just finish it up as best you can, heat treat and throw some wood slabs on for a handle and just use it as a shop knife or as a testing knife. Test edge retention with different edge geometries, and after testing it you could even break it to check for grain refinement. all good things can be learned by messing up.
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Good points, it'll keep the ball rolling too
 
Robert Erickson said:
holding the blade with a handle magnet
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Do most grinders use aluminum for their platens then? I have an OBM grinder with a 1/4" piece of tempered glass JB welded to the platen (steel) and a couple of years ago when I used a strong enough magnet to do this, it just pulled the magnet into the platen, the blade slid out and I ended up just grinding my magnet. I would have loved to see a video of that.
 
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