- Joined
- Jan 18, 2004
- Messages
- 1,135
This is actually on a great thread on the knife forum. I couldn't figure out how to bring the entire thread here, so here's just my part. This is a jig for doing the plunge cut. I know, it's not for everyone, most prefer to use the traditional methods, and I do that also. However, I just tried this today, and got great results, so all I'm doing here is passing on the info on the jig I made. For more info, check out the other thread on the knifeforum.
This is the jig I made. It's just a block of wood, cut at an angle, with a piece of micarta epoxied to the block. The wood is lag bolted to the "small wheel attachment" of my KMG. Note that the edge of the micarta does not extend quite to the roller, this makes it easier on the belt, as it takes a beating being used this way. Also note that the micarta is angled so that when the blade is placed on it, the tip (which would be away from you) would be hanging out in the air, above the belt (hope that makes a little sense). The other photo is of a D2 blade that's been heat treated (Thanks Roger), and then the plunge was cut in. Next time I'll do most of the plunge first, then heat treat, then plunge some more.
NOTE: This is NOT my idea, it belongs to the guys that wrote the original thread on the other forum. Ron Claiborn (Bowie) was very instrumental in the design. What you see here is just my take on the whole thing. It works very well, but because you can't see the actual plunge line being cut by the belt, you have to learn to "feel" where the plunge actually is. It takes a little practice believe me. To make the plunge, you place the blade on the belt (in line with it), with the tip towards the machine, and the handle towards you. A little before where you want to end up at, you start making the plunge cut, first one side, then the other. As you develope the groove, you can start working on making each side even with the other. The blade in the picture was hand sanded with 600 after the plunge cut (the belt was 220, then 400).
This is the jig I made. It's just a block of wood, cut at an angle, with a piece of micarta epoxied to the block. The wood is lag bolted to the "small wheel attachment" of my KMG. Note that the edge of the micarta does not extend quite to the roller, this makes it easier on the belt, as it takes a beating being used this way. Also note that the micarta is angled so that when the blade is placed on it, the tip (which would be away from you) would be hanging out in the air, above the belt (hope that makes a little sense). The other photo is of a D2 blade that's been heat treated (Thanks Roger), and then the plunge was cut in. Next time I'll do most of the plunge first, then heat treat, then plunge some more.
NOTE: This is NOT my idea, it belongs to the guys that wrote the original thread on the other forum. Ron Claiborn (Bowie) was very instrumental in the design. What you see here is just my take on the whole thing. It works very well, but because you can't see the actual plunge line being cut by the belt, you have to learn to "feel" where the plunge actually is. It takes a little practice believe me. To make the plunge, you place the blade on the belt (in line with it), with the tip towards the machine, and the handle towards you. A little before where you want to end up at, you start making the plunge cut, first one side, then the other. As you develope the groove, you can start working on making each side even with the other. The blade in the picture was hand sanded with 600 after the plunge cut (the belt was 220, then 400).
