PM2 break in or...?

S

SuzukiGS750EZ

Joined
Dec 30, 2008
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4,563
Hey guys. Bought my PM2 Wednesday and I thought the action was good. After a bit of playing I noticed blade play side to side. I took a 1/4" T10 bit and checked how tight the pivot was. The lock side was able to be removed by finger with the bit, the non lock side took a good amount of torque from a driver to break free. I removed the body screws on one side, cleaned everything up and put some hoppes gun oil on my finger and dabbed the washer in it. Reassembled that side with some loctite on the pivot screw and used the bit with my finger as tight as I cloths get it. Did the same to the other side. The blade has no play but is a bit stiff. Most of my knives whether spyderco or not when you find the balance point between no play and play are flickable. Being finger tight I cab flick it with a vigorous flick with no wrist, but when disengaging the lock it goes 1/4 of the way down with a wrist flick and I have to close it with my finger the rest of the way. Does this sound normal? How long do they take to break in? I don't like blade play, it drives me crazy. And with both screws being tightened as they are, I'd rather not loosen then. To loosen them though I did have to use a driver because even though they were "finger" tight, they still locked into the threads. Any opinions accepted!
 
Mine has taken several break downs to get smooth and solid. It still has a minimal amount of play when forced. I polished my washers on ceramic and with my strop. Makes a huge difference. The action should smooth as time goes by though

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When I get to the point your at and still not totally happy.
I'll tighten the pivot down, so the action is stiff. Then I work the blade open and closed, till it feels a little better..
Loosen the pivot up, find that happy medium and should be more to your liking.

It's helped on a few of my Spydie's, anyways..

Either way, it will smooth out with use.
 
SuzukiGS750EZ said:
You mean tighten it to a point where the washers and liners basically Polish and wear into one another?
Click to expand...
I think that's what he means. That's kind of what I did with mine. When I initially out it back together I tightened it to tighter than I would like. Over the past few days it has become increasing more free.

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You all were holding out on me! I found a thread that said not only do the pivot screws set the blade tension, but so do the stop pin screws. All 4 screws are to the point where they're snug with no blade play, it flicks open and closed with no tightness in the action.
 
My PM2 opens somewhat smoooth, but won't flick.. been using/wearing it for 2 weeks.

Figure it's a pretty easy fix? I'm just new to Spydie products.
 
Personally, I don't like the blade to swing freely when I unlock it; but I know I'm in the minority around here on that.
 
Yes this is valid, although some of my PM2s never needed this adjustment. They tend to loosen up with use in my experiences.


QUOTE=SuzukiGS750EZ;15968368]You all were holding out on me! I found a thread that said not only do the pivot screws set the blade tension, but so do the stop pin screws. All 4 screws are to the point where they're snug with no blade play, it flicks open and closed with no tightness in the action.[/QUOTE]
 
Sounds like you figured it. Some PM2's need a little break in time. In the past I have set mine on the tighter side and let the action wear in. You also may need to play with the stop pin screws.
 
I did the process a bit different (only because I found the thread after loctite). I tightened all the body screws down tight as you normally would on any knife. Adjusted the pivot until no play. It would open smooth with my thumb but when you got almost to the lock engaging it would have some drag. I loosened both stop pin screws (one at a time though) and got them just to snug and voila, it's smooth and I can disengage and flick closed, but it doesn't slam shut and bounce open.
 
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