PM2 scale swap

S

smt5141

Joined
Feb 14, 2009
Messages
19
Any tips/videos that can assist in helping me do a scale swap/PM2 disassembly/reassembly?

And what tools are necessary?
 
Your going to need a good set of torx for starters. How old is your knife? You might also have red locktite to deal with. The other obstacle that can get a little difficult is the lanyard tube. The ends are flared out. Depending on how your knife was put together it can be moderately difficult or a major pain.
 
My 2 cents, Don’t cheap out on a torx kit and waste your money like me. A good kit like the Wiha set is worth the extra money. I find cheap torx kits will strip your PM2 screws because they’re not always the exact size they’re advertised.
 
As said, a Wiha torx set and also grab a soldering iron to heat the pivot and body screws if you detect their could be red loctite to deal with.
 
Can’t seem to get the screws off. Have used a wiha set, now I think they are stripped. Got out the majority but two were quite stubborn
 
If there is locktite don't try and force it. Defeat the locktite with heat or shock.

The other obstacle is the lanyard tube. Good luck cause it's a pain in the ass no matter how many times you've taken one apart.

This may help a little. Nick makes it look easy, but it's not the majority of times. Also avoid the Nano oil and liberal application of lube of any type.
 
Last edited:
Rusty_shackelford said:
^ is he using the same size bit for his pivot and body screws?
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Its likely. His disassembly and "maintenance" videos make me cringe. Seems like a nice guy and I enjoy a lot of his vidoes but I take what I see in these type videos with a grain of salt. He has no business telling people how to do those things when he clearly can't do it well himself.
 
I should have taken pics the last time I took one apart. I have a surefire, no-fuss-no-muss easy way to deal with the lanyard tube that has never let me down. It's a bit lengthy to explain, but very easy and quick to do once you understand the process.
 
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on_the_edge said:
I should have taken pics the last time I took one apart. I have a surefire, no-fuss-no-muss easy way to deal with the lanyard tube that has never let me down. It's a bit lengthy to explain, but very easy and quick to do once you understand the process.
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Yea anything would help.
 
on_the_edge said:
Got an email?
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Just posted it on your wall...


But I also found an igtv vid from the unofficial spyderco fan club page just now of how he does it.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/BqHOEf1BjaZ/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=uxo5u6klag3

He also has a vid on centering a spyderco

https://www.instagram.com/tv/BpPNb1FAOhj/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=8pji626qnawt

And his order of operations...
https://www.instagram.com/tv/BqHKfbfB2jF/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=zv3ktzax1gc3
 
Mo2 Mo2 , I sent you an email.

ETA: I just watched the video you found. Fairly close to what I suggested, though I think the 3/32" punch is a better choice to use than the Wiha bit. But whatever works in the end is what matters.
 
on_the_edge said:
Mo2 Mo2 , I sent you an email.

ETA: I just watched the video you found. Fairly close to what I suggested, though I think the 3/32" punch is a better choice to use than the Wiha bit. But whatever works in the end is what matters.
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Yea I'm gonna try and find the 3/32" punch. I think I might have one in the toolbox. I need to buy more bits too.

Anyone that's looking into new bits I recommend wiha align bits. They have a less rounded edge on the tip of the torx end. PB Swiss also make drivers that are excellent. Most of the brands from Sweden or Germany are better than most.
 
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