Pocket Clip Drilling/Tapping

S

seanv1

Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
15
So, as a new poster, I'm sure this will have been covered to death elsewhere- I just can't find it. So I was curious about other people's thoughts on the matter.

Pocket clips: Why can't manufacturers drill and tap handles for pocket clips in a four-way setup? For left-or-right hand, tip-up/tip-down carry? I understand that occasionally there are design reasons; a thick handle scale that can't support clip contact in both directions, that sorta thing. I understand a designer's aesthetic reasons, too- especially on higher-end custom folders. But I don't buy the whole "framelocks and linerlocks aren't strong enough for tip-up carry" industry argument. It is selectively applied, at best. About 80% of the EDC or Tactical blades I've seen could support four-way drilling and tapping; does it save THAT MUCH money not to drill them?

Just curious what people think....
 
While many agree with you that they should do it as you say with four way mounting options others see it differently. End line users have complained of the 'swiss cheese' look with too many needless holes in the knives.

My take on this is that all the liners should be pre-drilled underneath for any mode of carry. If a manufacturer must sell it to feel good about the sale with right hand tip down carry so be it but if someone was left handed and only needed tip up left hand carry for themselves its a simple matter for most to take the scale off and simply drill out the holes in the spots that could be conveniently started or pre-marked on the underside of the scale once its removed.

Of course this would not solve all issues for knives with pinned handle scales and some do not take their knives apart as a general rule of thumb but its a start.

STR
 
Naturally, I forgot to mention that I'm left-handed. So, to be fair, it's a much greater nuisance for me than the bulk of knife owners. And I understand the aesthetics point you make, STR.
 
STR, that sounds like an excellent idea!

I'm all for ambidextrous clips being standard on knives. Not only does it make it easier for lefties but it allows more options for both parties. I think the aesthetics issue has been overblown, people complain about the extra holes but I don't think it really affects sales of any given knife.

Although for me the converse is true. I wanted to buy one of the new Gold Class M4 Griptilians just because it had the option for left-handed carry. In the same token, I've passed over dozens of knives because they don't have those three little holes in the right spot.
 
spoonrobot said:
STR, that sounds like an excellent idea!

I'm all for ambidextrous clips being standard on knives. Not only does it make it easier for lefties but it allows more options for both parties. I think the aesthetics issue has been overblown, people complain about the extra holes but I don't think it really affects sales of any given knife.

Although for me the converse is true. I wanted to buy one of the new Gold Class M4 Griptilians just because it had the option for left-handed carry. In the same token, I've passed over dozens of knives because they don't have those three little holes in the right spot.
Click to expand...

Yeah I understand. I just put those little holes where I want them on most anymore. I can understand a manufacturer not drilling and tapping a right handed liner or frame lock for left handed carry at all and would feel its a waste to carry and use when its a right hander but obviously many carry them anyways. I don't see any reason why the side that is tapped should not have both options available though. If they don't like the holes put screws in them and be done with it.

STR
 
I agree with right/left hand hole options on ambidexterous knives, such as the BM axis locks, but 4 sets is just too many.
 
I often add pocket clips to folding knives. Properly sized sharp drills are a requirement. Special geometries and/or coatings (like Titanium nitride) are handy for drills used for brass, Aluminum, Titanium, and stainless steel. If I am adding a pocket clip to a plastic handle, I insert a helicoil to keep the threads from stripping out. A small hand tapper helps to keep the tap straight. Proper lubricants also improve the results. Once I broke off a #2-56 tap in a Titanium handle. I used battery acid to dissolve tap. No harm was done to the Titanium. One of the touchier jobs was putting a pocket clip on a William Henry Titanium handle. The screws were #0-80. I have seen bigger screws on watches.
 
I wish they AT LEAST tapped knives on the left hand in addition to the right hand side for tip up carry. Tapping all four carry options would be better.

I will not buy a Millie (no lefty tip up) or a Kershaw Spec bump (no lefty option period) until this is resolved. And there are a million other knives that never even come on my radar due to them not being lefty friendly. I'll even use a righty liner lock, because it is easy for me to close one-handed.

Fine, I'll just keep my damn money!
 
The left-handed Military is still pretty available if you're interested. I love mine!
DSCF1557.jpg
 
Can an end user not drill and tap? I've never had to make such small hoes, so I have no idea if it can be done without knife-industry dedicated tools.
 
I've drilled and tapped a couple of titanium frame locks. One was to make it tip up, the other (Kershaw JYD 2) was to make it tip up AND remove the horribly ugly factory clip and replace it with something subtle..
 
You might get a better tapping job at home than a factory tap. Sometimes at the factory they don't change the tap often enough, and the resulting threads are oversize and prone to stripping. Tapped liners are often so thin that only a few threads are created. It is quite important that these few threads are deep (from tip to root) and well formed. A hand tapping operation allows more control over the thread dimensions. You can get small chucks with spindles on the back for small drills. The chuck can also be used to start the tap, turning it by hand. The most important considerations are the size, sharpness, material, and geometry of the drill. In shallow holes you need smaller tap drills. There are charts in the machinists handbooks. Small drills are not expensive, but they are hard to sharpen. Get good sharp (new) drills. For tough handles you need tough or coated tap drills. For brass and Aluminum special points and twists are helpful.
 
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