Pocket Knife Blade Opening Force - Some Numbers

dsutton24

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How much force does it actually take to open a pocket knife blade?

I didn't really know. I knew that some blades are hard to open. Some open easily, and some are thumbnail busters. I think that GECS tend to be on the heavy side. You often see people rating blade opening as 'pinchable', a '7', and what have you.

But how much force is really required to open a blade?

So, in the interest of something or another, I rigged up an apparatus:

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It's Wheeler trigger pull gauge and a sling made from one of those Amazon envelopes that can't be opened without power tools. The knife pictured above is my every day knife, an old Henckels 1901. I opened it several times, trying to find the lowest opening force, and found that it took 2 pounds, 4 ounces, or 36 ounces, to open it. This knife is my ideal, and I was surprised that it took over two pounds of force to open it.

Next, I tested an old, well used 2 dot Buck 110. It measured 24 ounces.

What does it take to actually break a thumbnail? I tested the cap lifter blade of a Camillus Scout knife, one that has actually busted my thumbnail. It came in at an impressive 91 ounces.

What about others?

I used my sling and scale gizmo to measure a few more knives. I centered the sling over the nail nick of the knives that had half moon nail nicks, and over the tip end of those with long pulls. I found that by holding the scale still with my right hand, and rotating the body of the knife with my left hand I could produce reproducible results. I measured the force from fully closed to the 45 degree open point. All measurements were converted to ounces for simplicity's sake. Each knife got a fresh drop of oil in the pivot, and was opened and closed five times to work it in. I measured only the master blade.

I tested all 10 of my GEC 71s. Not picking on GEC, I just happen to have a bunch of 71s, and it was interesting to see the variation on a number of the same knives. I generated ten random numbers and tested six more traditional pattern GECs, and did the same with six more traditionals from other manufacturers. I measured six out of ten because a few knives would pinch the sling against the liners and give false measurements.

So, what did the numbers say?

First, the Bullnoses. They are snappy. They ranged from a low of 35 ounces to 72 ounces, averaging 56.1 ounces. The 35 ounce knife was an outlier, most were well above that number. One of the knives was rated a '7' by a previous owner, and came in at 72 ounces.

The six GEC traditionals ranged from a low of 28 ounces to a high of 66 ounces, for an average of 39.67 ounces.

The six traditionals from various manufacturers ranged from a low of 24 ounces to a high of 42 ounces, for an average of 35.33 ounces.

So, of the knives tested, Bullnoses are really snappy. GEC averages about 4 ounces above the others, and most traditionals come in around 35 ounces.

The numbers:

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Lastly, I took a brand new Case 6292, it measured 42 ounces. I left it partially opened at the point where the backspring was stressed the most for two weeks. Measuring it several times over the period didn't show a marked change.

The small ample sizes probably influence the numbers some, but I found this to be an interesting exercise.

Anybody care to add to the data?
 
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Nice study, dsutton24 dsutton24 !! I like your methods and the care you have taken! You have measured the pull at the nail nick, and found it relatively repeatable, so it appears you have come very close to real world effort to open a blade regardless of spring strength!
Well Done!!!:thumbsup:
 
Interesting. I think knifeswapper knifeswapper is doing something similar. Spring pressure in pounds is in the description of newer knives on his site.

Although there are many variables to contend with; I found measuring from the closed blade to be cumbersome. Thus I have a Digital Peak Force Gauge that I use to move the blade from full open to half open from the front edge of the nail nick. So, I provide a "pull" rating from 1-10 (really only have had results in the 4-8 range); and a spring strength (from the gauge) in lbs/ozs.
 
As as adjunct, the shape of a nail nick can affect the effort!! If a nick has a nice square shelf with a soft edge to accept your nail, it should be straight forward! I have had nail nicks that are too shallow, others that would routinely tear my nail!! A deeper study would be a lot of effort!!
Maybe not worth it!!:rolleyes:
 
Great idea! :thumbsup: The first thing that I thought of was to subjectively rate them by our 1-10 pull strength scale (5 the typical 93mm SAK) before measuring them, and see how they correlate. The one example you gave of a "7" being an actual 72 oz. was pretty instructive. The newer 2017 release of the #66s were notoriously light on pull strength, and your example measured a very low 28 oz. What would you rate it, a 3 or 4? I would love to know what an SAK would measure on your apparatus, to give a force number to the ubiquitous "5" rating. GEC's #44 Buffalo Jack pattern have about the most consistent and pleasing pull strength of the many knives I own, and I call them a 5½ to 6, I'd love to measure one or several of those.
 
While your method is admirable, Mike, I sure like dsutton 24's method of measuring the opening strength!!
The closing-the-blade-measure of yours is a great safety-in-use measure!!
 
Although there are many variables to contend with; I found measuring from the closed blade to be cumbersome. Thus I have a Digital Peak Force Gauge that I use to move the blade from full open to half open from the front edge of the nail nick. So, I provide a "pull" rating from 1-10 (really only have had results in the 4-8 range); and a spring strength (from the gauge) in lbs/ozs.

Do you attach the gauge to the blade, or are you just pushing on the back of the blade with your gauge? I mulled over some kind of clamping arrangement that would mimic how you engage your thumbnail into the nail nick, but couldn't come up with anything sensible and simple that would work on most knives. Thus the plastic sling. If someone has a good design, I'd like to see it.

I measured from closed to 45 degrees because that's where the challenge really is. Once the thing is partially open it's a natural thing to rearrange all the contact points to the easiest configuration. Also, stopping my measurements at 45 degrees takes a half stop, or lack thereof, out of the equation.
 
It’s not simply about spring strength. A nail nick’s placement can make the difference between a manageable and nail breaking pull.

You're right. Knives like the GEC 792312 have the nail nick very close to the pivot. Interestingly, that knife came in at a light 30 ounces.
 
My gauge can be setup for pull or push. I use the pull and a hook attachment (wrapped in tape) and set the spine of the open blade in the cradle of the hook and push down until the blade moves to at least half open. The max pressure is always prior to 45 degrees whether it is rounded or square tang. I originally used a trigger gauge and just found the readings to be all over the place; my guess was due to the fact that both parts are moving. So my force gauge is mounted to my work desk.
 
While your method is admirable, Mike, I sure like dsutton 24's method of measuring the opening strength!!
The closing-the-blade-measure of yours is a great safety-in-use measure!!

That may be a better measure for sure. But I don't know how to make it work on a new knife. Either A) a new knife should slice his holding plastic with just a few ounces of pressure and B) anything stronger would probably roll the edges.

I did try a pull digital pull gauge with a peak reading and a clamp on the spine of the blade; just couldn't get consistency I was happy with.
 
Great idea! :thumbsup: The first thing that I thought of was to subjectively rate them by our 1-10 pull strength scale (5 the typical 93mm SAK) before measuring them, and see how they correlate. The one example you gave of a "7" being an actual 72 oz. was pretty instructive. The newer 2017 release of the #66s were notoriously light on pull strength, and your example measured a very low 28 oz. What would you rate it, a 3 or 4? I would love to know what an SAK would measure on your apparatus, to give a force number to the ubiquitous "5" rating. GEC's #44 Buffalo Jack pattern have about the most consistent and pleasing pull strength of the many knives I own, and I call them a 5½ to 6, I'd love to measure one or several of those.

I'm not sure about a 1 to 10 rating related to the 28 ounce measurement. The old 110 that I referenced measured 24 ounces, and I think that's probably the minimum that most would consider to be safe for pocket carry. If you call that a 1, then I guess that 28 ounces could be considered a 3 or so.

I think I found that 4 ounces was about as precisely I could measure with just my hands. A variance of 2 or 3 ounces seemed to be more or less negligible. A 1 to 10 rating scale probably isn't linear.

I pulled out a random Swiss Army knife, a Victorinox Tinker. The master blade measured 46 ounces. The most difficult blade, the can opener, measured a hefty 68 ounces.
 
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That may be a better measure for sure. But I don't know how to make it work on a new knife. Either A) a new knife should slice his holding plastic with just a few ounces of pressure and B) anything stronger would probably roll the edges.

I did try a pull digital pull gauge with a peak reading and a clamp on the spine of the blade; just couldn't get consistency I was happy with.

I tested 26 knives total, all new or mint. All had cutting edges. I went through a total of five plastic slings. As long as the sling doesn't slide as the blade opens, it doesn't cut through as easily as you'd think. I tried cutting through the sling by slinging the master blade of the Puma listed above, pulling straight on it, without letting it slide. My scale maxes out at 8 pounds (128 ounces), and the sling survived.
 
I tested 26 knives total, all new or mint. All had cutting edges. I went through a total of five plastic slings. As long as the sling doesn't slide as the blade opens, it doesn't cut through as easily as you'd think. I tried cutting through the sling by slinging the master blade of the Puma listed above, pulling straight on it, without letting it slide. My scale maxes out at 8 pounds (128 ounces), and the sling survived.

Yes, most knives would probably give no problems. But, since I need something that works the same for everything, there are some that would slice it quickly (and why I don't open them with my thumb). Also, having just used the Lyman as you use the Wheeler I tested one knife and got readings in the 2lb 4ozs range and then tested on the scientific gauge and got readings in the 1.4lbs range. But as long as all your readings are using the same equipment, method, and process - it will be very useful information for mapping open pull.
 
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