"Poland" files?

[Doc Shipley]

I have 4 or 5 scrap files, stamped "Poland" at the tang. They were all worn out when I got them - part of an auction lot of hand tools - so I have no idea what the quality of the steel is. Will they make decent knives?

I'll be annealing these and heat-treating the ones I don't botch. What kind of heat-treat is recommended? I've seen posts that say files are similar to 1084, posts that say they're similar to 1095, and one that says Nicholson's spec is close to W2, so I'm officially confused.


Doc

 

[silver_pilate]

You and everyone else, Doc. At this point, unless someone has some really good information about these particular files, your guess is as good as mine. Without knowing the actual production steel, you are shooting in the dark. The good thing about that is that you *sometimes* hit something. So you'll be experimenting to see what works. And the only way to know if it really worked is to destroy sample pieces with various heat treatment protocols or destroy the knife you've worked hard to create. And there is the possibility that it's not even a hardenable tool steel, but rather a case hardened file that won't make a servicable knife.

It's been said before, and I hear that it may be true , known steel is a whole lot easier to start out with if you're looking to make a good knife, especially as a beginner. If you're looking to have fun working with something that you already have and experimenting, then there is nothing wrong with that either. I'm not trying to discourage you from your original intention, just pointing out the other side of things.

--nathan

 

[Doc Shipley]

You and everyone else, Doc. At this point, unless someone has some really good information about these particular files, your guess is as good as mine. Without knowing the actual production steel, you are shooting in the dark.

snip

It's been said before, and I hear that it may be true , known steel is a whole lot easier to start out with if you're looking to make a good knife, especially as a beginner.

--nathan

Thanks, Nathan! That's what I was afraid of.

I do have some bar stock from reputable dealers, but I'm getting accustomed to my belt grinder and making a lot of mistakes, and I hate leaving good steel in the rust bucket. These files came free, so if they're crap I still get good practice grinding. If they're good steel I get practice heat-treating too.

PS - I grew up in Lubbock. I got to shake Ralph Bone's hand once.


Doc

 

[silver_pilate]

Awesome, Doc. It is nice to know that there have been a couple of good bladesmiths come out of the Hub. Ralph Bone and Enedino De Leon are the two most well known I know of. I'd of liked to meet either of them (not sure if Enedion is still around...). I grew up in Hale Center, by the way.

If you're ever up this way, look me up.

--nathan

 

[Edro20]

PS - I grew up in Lubbock. I got to shake Ralph Bone's hand once.


Doc

Bone Knife Company? What was the Bone Knife Company is right next to where I work. The guy that has the building now still has a nice shadowbox of knives from Bone Knife. Good stuff!

 

[silver_pilate]

Hey, Ed. You need to get out to my shop sometime and see my new toys . I haven't seen you in while. Of course I know it's because you're too busy making knives...no wait, that can't be it!

--nathan

 

[godogs57]

I have made a number of file knives and love the way they turn out. If I have any questions regarding the suitability of the steel, I will heat the file to non-magnetic, quench in water and then strike with my hammer on the edge of my anvil. If it snaps, it generally will be OK.....bends? Trash can! I try this usually on the ends of the file and then save the remainder for my blade.

My favorites? Nicholson obviously. Stokes, Heller, Simonds. I steer away from Belotta...just have not gotten anything consistent from them.

I ht in my forge to non-magnetic and quench in Brownells quenching oil heated to about 115 degrees. Temper @ 375 degrees until I get a good straw color, usually 2 hours.