polishing a CRKT ryan model 7 k (black teflon)

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Feb 17, 2002
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CRKT recently came out with the "K" series of blades that come with the black soft teflon coating. I recently bought one, and Im planning on polishing the black finish off, and polishing the frame and blade to a fine satin/near mirror finish.

Ive been lurking on the forums reading about peoples mixed results with hand polishing a bead blast finish (only finish offered in the previous CRKT ryan model 7), I also read some where that the black coating off a Busse Basic 9 was removed with Klean Strip KS-3.

Is it possible to use a paint remover to remove the black finish on my crkt model 7? And work it through the various grits, 600-1500? Or should I just use Mother Mag and Aluminum Polish? (read on another thread, after doing a search on polishing)

Has anyone done any work on their CRKT ryan model 7's that they can share?

This will be my first customization attempt, any advice would be appreciated.
 
Didn't realize these were even out yet--gonna have to pick me up one. For the polishing, though I've never tried it, I don't think paint remover would do it (I'd hope not anyway). As for the Mother's polish, if you use it by itself, then expect to take a few months getting the teflon off. Artsig1 is the proponent of their polish, but I think in that thread he mentions that he started off with some sandpaper first (or maybe it was in another thread). Again, I've never tried this personally, so that should be considered when reading anything I write.

I think the main problem(s) with polishing a bead blast or some kind of coating is that a lot of the time the coating/blasting is applied to hide imperfections and removing the coating/blasting exposes those imperfections. Hope that helps somewhat.
 
As far as the black protective coatings the CRKT black teflon is supposed to be the softest and least durable, compared to the Benchmade and Microtech anyways. It works out better this way for me, hopefully it wont take too long to remove.

As the paint stripper, Im pretty sure it will work here is the thread where I read it from

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=209946&highlight=polish+black

The only reason Im getting the black model is because it will be easier to polish, I really dont want to deal with a beadblast finish.

Thanks for the input Zenghost.
 
anyone know about the effectiveness of methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or an alkaline based paint strippers effect on CRKTs black teflon coating?

I still think the Klean Strip might be the way to go...
 
No idea about how to strip the Teflon coating, but I thought you should've picked up the bead blasted Model 7 and you'd have an easier time trying to get rid of that finish instead of the Teflon.
I've removed the bead blast finish on a CRKT Carson F4 and turn it into somewhat like a brushed metal finish, it's not too hard to do so, but it'll take an effort.
 
Actually I have access to a beadblasted crkt ryan model7, I was going to work on the black teflon one because I thought the results would be better.

I don't think a mirror finish would work too well with the beadblasted AUS6 I think it would be more feasible to go with the satin finish

Can anyone recommend a good photo hosting service? I'll post pictures detailing the project.
 
I went to the store and picked up some sandpaper, 320, 400, 600, and 1500. I was about to start working on my CRKT ryan, but it looked like a lot of work...and I had already used a scotts scouring pad to give my Spydercard a brushed finish.

I decided to practice on the Spydercard instead since its mostly flats. Since I already used the scouring pad to take down the bead blasted finish, I started with the 400 grit and worked my way to 600. I glued the sand paper to wide popsicle sticks I got at a craft store for my sanding blocks. I spent about 2 hours with the 400 grit and another 2 hours with the 600 grit.

The only real problems Im having is sanding around the rivets, and getting everything to a consistent finish. Im almost done with the 600 grit, and ditched the popsicle sticks and went with regular sanding blocks...oh yah and THE SPYDERCARD LOOKS A MILLION TIMES BETTER!!! Hehe, this is my first hand polishing attempt and its not nearly as hard as it was intimidating. Spyderco should have offered a high polish finish on this knfe its a shame really.

The AUS6M does actually polish up quite nicely but it needs to be done by hand IMO, or at least at very slow speeds if done on a wheel.

Oh yah so far I have a high polish on the blade flats and the entire handle, I decided to leave the grind with the initial brush finish I
got with the scouring pad.

The only problem Im having is the knife isn't as smooth as it used to be, I think its because I couldn't remove the blade when I was polishing so the action is clogged with fine metal shavings...any suggestions about how to fix the problem?

I can't wait to start on the CRKT ryan.
 
so far I've taken the Spydercard as far as I can take the mirror finish with the 1500 grit sand paper, Im gonna start hand rubbing it with polishing compound.

Im starting to work on the CRKT Ryan Model 7. I have the knife completely disassembled and have polished the flat liner. I've taken the flat liner to a high polish from 400-1500 grit. Since the liners aren't completely visible through the zig-zag zytel handles it isn't so important that the finish be completely mirror.

Here's my question, now that most of the polishing is done I'm gonna start focusing on the blade. How do I remove the thumbstuds from the blade? Ive read on other threads that the thumbstuds were so loose they just fell off. Maybe this is a newer version of the knife so the thumbstuds are much more difficult to take off.
 
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