Polishing a stripper?

E

emt1581

Joined
Dec 28, 2011
Messages
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I got a Dog Soldier as part of a grab bag a few years back. First I tried citristrip then I think I used sandpaper. Also tried etching the Busse logo with a 9 volt and some alligator clips (I honestly forget how I did it) and I don't think that worked. Then it was stuffed in a homemade kydex sheath and has been forgotten about for years. So now it has rust/stain spots all over it and just looks like the abused mess it is. I do not blame Busse in the least, this was all my own doing. However, I'd like to try and bring it back to life and finish what I started. I've got plenty of tools including bench grinder, electric sander/multi-tool, vehicle polisher/buffer, dremel, files, etc. I'd like it to look as beautiful as my TGLB and Basic 8.

How do I go about cleaning it up and polishing it?

Thanks!!

EDIT: Pics....


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With the tools you've listed... it may be beyond this suggestion, Flitz and paper towel have cleaned up the very worst I've seen, sure, takes some elbow grease but unless your knife is bad enough to cut sections out and weld in new ones like a rusted out quarter panel... which is obviously a joke...
Flitz, paper towel/shop rag, elbow grease
 
Jameson77 said:
With the tools you've listed... it may be beyond this suggestion, Flitz and paper towel have cleaned up the very worst I've seen, sure, takes some elbow grease but unless your knife is bad enough to cut sections out and weld in new ones like a rusted out quarter panel... which is obviously a joke...
Flitz, paper towel/shop rag, elbow grease
Click to expand...

I can buy some of that and give it a try. Maybe I'll throw some pics up to see if the advice is the same. Again, I need it cleaned up AND satin/polished. If liquid and a cloth will do that I will be impressed and grateful. If not, I'm open to suggesitons.

Thanks
 
I would start with Scotch Brite pads and oil, CLP Breakfree works great. You can get a drum type wheel of Scotch Bright for your drill that worked really good. You should end up with a nice satin finish. If you want it more of a mirror finish work your way up from 600-2000 wet sanding by hand with a soft rubber block ( like those rubber work pads for you shop floor)
 
All good advice here. I’ve taken rust like that off a satin blade with Mr Clean Magic Eraser and Hoppe’s No. 9 bore solvent. One nice thing about the Magic Eraser, it leaves a finish similar to Busse original satin. Blends in and looks like new. Not sure it will blend as well on whatever grit finish you’re working with there, but if it was me I’d give it a try.
 
Ironic said:
All good advice here. I’ve taken rust like that off a satin blade with Mr Clean Magic Eraser and Hoppe’s No. 9 bore solvent. One nice thing about the Magic Eraser, it leaves a finish similar to Busse original satin. Blends in and looks like new. Not sure it will blend as well on whatever grit finish you’re working with there, but if it was me I’d give it a try.
Click to expand...

That's easy enough to try. I mean I don't have the Hoppe's. I use Break Free. But we have plenty of those magic erasers.
Thanks
 
I recently used these, they work well.

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Google “Dome Mounted Sanding Mop Polishing Pad Nylon Fiber Buffing Wheel” if you are interested. And don’t cut yourself.
 
Just a quick update....

I used CLP/Breakfree with a Scotchbrite pad and a magic eraser last night. TONS of elbow grease as well!! The magic eraser really didn't do anything. But the Scotchbrite pad got around 60-70% of the stains off and gave a slight polish to the steel. Nowhere near the satin or comp. finish of the factory though.

When I get a chance I'll post update pics.

Need to figure out how to get the deeper stains out and how to shine it up.

Thanks
 
Actually the fastest and best way would be to get a coarse waterstone that is rather muddy and just grind the primary bevel under it disappears. You just press down on the primary bevel on the opposite side you want to grind and work it back and forth all along the blade. Take care at the plunge line that the corner of the waterstone doesn't gouge there, you can round it off on the corners to prevent this also. In Japanese tradition, one would always plane down the primary bevel along with the edge bevel at most sharpenings. It both cleans the blade and keeps/restores optimum cutting geometry.
 
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