Polishing Bits for Safe Blade and Tool Restoration

[usframe]

As users of blades and tools we are more concerned with usability than collectible value, despite the piles of antique and vintage tools in the shop. But at the same time, taking care not to alter or destroy metal in the process is still important. An item we have found to be helpful in removing light rust and damage in the shop are diamond impregnated rubber bits, the sort that fit on a dremel tool. Early on, we used them for polishing out sharp edges on damaged bowls and such. Then, for cleaning up burrs and casting seams and defects on metal models and miniatures. From there, knowing that heat is negligible as well as being minimally destructive, the leap to tools was an easy one. As far as powered devices go, this is about it for what we use in bringing blades and tools back to use.

[video=youtube;xST0Cjl92L4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xST0Cjl92L4[/video]

 

[Jason B.]

Using a dremel on a knife or tool is never a good idea. As can be seen and heard in the video it bounces across the surface and leaves a uneven finish. Also, I don't know what the video was trying to show because the axe still needs to be sharpened and that would have removed the rust anyways.

 

[usframe]

I disagree, in this instance it was perfect for discovery, the bouncing didn't affect the metal at all and is the result of me just beginning to work with my hands again. I guess in the end it all comes down to user capability and understanding the materials along with experience. For this task, the rubber bits are just fine, actually unable to do damage or unwanted marring. I do absolutely at the same time appreciate your input.

 

[eKretz]

Commonly used in tool and die shops for rough polishing and removing tooling marks, a reputable manufacturer of these diamond impregnated rubber abrasive wheels is Cratex. The bouncing will definitely affect the flatness/uniformity of the metal surface, but the grits are very fine so it won't dig too deep too fast if you're careful and don't dwell too long. It may be a result of you not working with your hands for a while, but is more specifically a result of not enough pressure/rigidity in your holding the grinder. I would use these on a resto/de-rust but would definitely move to something else as soon as the rust is gone. Better yet would be a Scotch-Brite or similar wheel. I would never touch a surface that is clean steel with one of those in a hand grinder though. It would be counter-productive, IMO.