I have an Mcusta Take with a VG10 and layered damascus blade, and I'm wondering if you can put a finer polish on the blade without ruining the etch? The etch leaves a texture on the blade which isn't necessarily bad, but I think I'd prefer a mirror polish, or at least something that'll cut down on the texture.
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Polishing damascus
- Thread starter Brutus013
- Start date
Re-etching will just make it textured again. Ferric chloride, used to etch pc boards, is usually diluted with distilled water (3:1 water to acid). The acid eats away at the softer metals that make up the damascus faster than the harder ones. This leaves behind the pattern that you see.
When you polish the blade, you remove the pits and basically "erase" the damascus pattern. Make sense?
When you polish the blade, you remove the pits and basically "erase" the damascus pattern. Make sense?
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2005
- Messages
- 2,531
Am I correct in assuming you want the blade to look more like the fully open knife pictured, rather than the almost closed knife above it, which appears to show more contrast ?
If so, you can just buff the blade until the black oxides are gone. Pretty simple operation.
If you'll notice on the bottom knife, (which appears to have had the buffing done to it) the contrast in the touchmark has also been reduced.
Without careful masking (or maybe nail polish) you'll have to accept the fact that it will probably happen to your knife during buffing too.
FWIW, something else I notice about the 2 knives shown, is the fact the top one appears to be flat ground, whereas the bottom polished one, appears to have a hollow grind. Could just be the pictures
To get the best results, disassembly of the folder would be advantageous.
Not only to allow for access to the entire blade, but also to prevent damage, if the knife were to be pulled from your hand during buffing. It is a very dangerous operation, especially considering the blade is most likely very sharp. To make the operation much easier, make a small aluminum stick with a drilled and tapped hole for screwing the disassembled blade to while buffing. You'll want to flip sides with the stick to buff both sides equally.
I get buffing supplies here http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffing.htm
I haven't tried the rough designed specifically for stainless so I can't recommend it. However I do use the white rouge (WBC5 or WBC7) to bring my stainless blades to mirror finish with excellent results.
I would recommend using a 6" or 8" spiral sewn wheel such as SSCW65 or
If so, you can just buff the blade until the black oxides are gone. Pretty simple operation.
If you'll notice on the bottom knife, (which appears to have had the buffing done to it) the contrast in the touchmark has also been reduced.
Without careful masking (or maybe nail polish) you'll have to accept the fact that it will probably happen to your knife during buffing too.
FWIW, something else I notice about the 2 knives shown, is the fact the top one appears to be flat ground, whereas the bottom polished one, appears to have a hollow grind. Could just be the pictures
To get the best results, disassembly of the folder would be advantageous.
Not only to allow for access to the entire blade, but also to prevent damage, if the knife were to be pulled from your hand during buffing. It is a very dangerous operation, especially considering the blade is most likely very sharp. To make the operation much easier, make a small aluminum stick with a drilled and tapped hole for screwing the disassembled blade to while buffing. You'll want to flip sides with the stick to buff both sides equally.
I get buffing supplies here http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffing.htm
I haven't tried the rough designed specifically for stainless so I can't recommend it. However I do use the white rouge (WBC5 or WBC7) to bring my stainless blades to mirror finish with excellent results.
I would recommend using a 6" or 8" spiral sewn wheel such as SSCW65 or
SSCW87. Work slowly and carefully and it should come out fine.
BTW, nice looking knife :thumbup: