polishing infi

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Oct 29, 2005
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i vaguely remember someone mentioning they used a fine grit sandpaper to polish/buff their knife. does the sanding leave bad scratches? and will metal polish suffice in removing them? i dont have a buffer or any power tool to do the work, just elbow grease
 
I haven't done any INFI but, I have polished a couple blades in the past using Japanese finger stones.
 
Should work fine on INFI but, if you think F5'ing the company store gives your digits a workout, than you have got another thing coming...LOL
 
I have already satin done a few, I use 220 grit SP on a foam block and run with the grain, then goto 320, then 420. After I use fine automotive polishing compund and rub it in circles. It seems to work well. And doesn't really take that much work
 
thanks wirenut. i think i will try your technique first,less labor intensive. i have flitz metal polish, think that is good enough?
 
Morimotom,
I polished that Game Warden mostly by hand. I'm working on the other side right now and my HR too. :D :thumbup:
I used sandpaper, then a buffing wheel just for the final touch. But even with just 2000 grit sandpaper it's like a mirror. The buffing wheel just takes the final haze out and makes it glossy. But it's still hella shiny w/o the buffing wheel! You could even buff it by hand with some buffing compound if you want to. :thumbup:
Here's a litte more about it.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421507&highlight=ice+warden
 
is the 'rough metal sanding paper' a special type of sandpaper? can i get this at my local hardware store?

btw, thanks for the tips.
 
I've been using emory cloth on my ST Ripper. I don't want it shiny, it's a dull matte and the ridges highlight a little brighter. I started off wanting to take some major grind marks off the spine, using a coarse diamond stone and a file. Still working the grinds out of the exposed tang, skull crusher and choil. The finish is getting very smooth with smaller amounts of sandpaper scratching, but I'm swirling it for what I envision a "Ghost Skinner":D , hazy finish to look like.
 
I assume you all are doing this with coated blades for the most part... do you use some kind of EZ Strip or something to remove the coating first?
 
Metal Sanding paper is "Emory Cloth". It is very hard abrasive rock adhered to a tough fabric. It holds up a lot better than sand-on-paper.
I just bought it at Sears.
I also bought 800, 1500, and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper at Wal-Mart.
The trick is at every stage of sanding (changing grits) remove all signs of the previous cut, which will not always be easily visible. So make each cut cross it's previous one at 90 degrees, this way you can see the scratches.
This site may be useful as well :thumbup:
http://www.englishcustompolishing.com/usca/howto.html
Good luck! Let me know how it goes! :thumbup:
 
Mike Thourot does one hell of a job!
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PorkGunner, THAT is SOOOOWEET! Very rarely do I like a polished knife, this is one of those rare times. Thanks for sharing!:thumbup:
 
i took this sjatc to mirror polish, but didn't like it so i made it satin again. but the convexed edge is mirror polished..... i used Jerry Hossom's method for sharpening, but did the whole blade.
 
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