polishing washers

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No_b00st

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Aug 10, 2008
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ok, this is a continuation on a different front of my "Pimp the Kershaw JYD" thread. I'm happy with the handles of the knife now; I am wondering what the best way of going about smoothing out the action is? I've heard of sanding or polishing washers, and I've tried it before, but to minimal effect. Then again, i was using a dry piece of worn out 250 grit, so... yeah. What's the word on smooth out the internal friction surfaces of your knife? Concerns about tolerances, etc? Any advice?

-James
 
if they are all ready somewhat smooth i would polish them first as using sand paper can put deeper scratches in the material than what was originally there. I use a dremel tool to buff out the washers that i use in my balisongs. The standard red compound works well. Plus a disadvantage to sanding is if you create an uneven washer in your attempts you may get more binding if you dont keep the action loose. If you dont have a dremel tool you can try flitz polish as i have had great luck with it. also a drop of militech1 on each side of the washers during assembly works well also.
 
what about using a very fine grit sandpaper like 1500, wet, mounted on a sanding block? I dont' have a dremel tool readily accessible.
 
Wet sand with 1500 grit, but you probably did some damage with that old 250 grit.
 
yuck. Well i haven't hit these washers with the 250, but i can't seem to balance this knife between loose vertical play and binding with no play but a bad action. Maybe taking some thickness out of the washers will allow me to tighten down with less friction. We'll see; it was an $11 knife! Never afraid to try... *breaks out the Torx* I will report back with results.

edit: what about wet-sanding internal friction surfaces on the blade or inside of the handles?

-James
 
to be honest with you i dont know if there would be a significant advantage to using sandpaper. are these washers a copper color? (phosphor bronze?) this isnt a very hard metal and has self lubricating properties. Unless the original washer is chewed up i wouldnt sand it. And if it was chewed up i would simply replace it with the same size on knifekits.com. But this is just what i would do. For me i feel in some knives like frame lock folders the thickness of the washer has alot to say for fit and positive lock up. I realize you would be using a very light sandpaper that essentially is on the very low side of polishing but if it needs it i would scrap the washer. If its not in that bad of condition i feel you could skip the sanding step entirely and try just using a metal polish on a rag. Most of the problems that will occur with the washers is simply corrosion or other buildup. most of these washers are never polished from the factory and simply just need a little touch of polish. Im of the mind that the metal is soft enough that a compound would eliminate the need to touch it with sandpaper. Ive used flitz on washers and they glow after a quick rub.
 
No_b00st said:
edit: what about wet-sanding internal friction surfaces on the blade or inside of the handles?

-James
Click to expand...

been there done that with a kershaw boa. i polished all surfaces of all points of friction in the pivot. It actually slowed the action of the knife. It had no give. Highly polished parts tend to stick to one another. they also tend to have a suction effect similar to the plastic decorations that stick to window without adhesive. Its as if they create their own vacuum.
 
I don't believe polishing the washers will be of any benefit if you use an advanced lubricant such as Militec-1, which I've found to be just outstanding on Kershaw SpeedSafe and "flipper" models, including the JYD.
 
No_b00st said:
yuck. Well i haven't hit these washers with the 250, but i can't seem to balance this knife between loose vertical play and binding with no play but a bad action. Maybe taking some thickness out of the washers will allow me to tighten down with less friction. We'll see; it was an $11 knife! Never afraid to try... *breaks out the Torx* I will report back with results.

edit: what about wet-sanding internal friction surfaces on the blade or inside of the handles?

-James
Click to expand...

Do you think you need to compensate for any reduction in thickness of the scales after sanding out the logos and buffing while using the same screws? Probably not but it crossed my mind . . .
 
Other than thickness concerns, polishing the washers will have no effect. The first time you open the knife the polish will be gone.
Try Latama Quick Release lube.
Bill
 
All the pivot area surfaces of my Camillus Heat & Blaze, and my Byrd Cara Cara got mirror polished, not just the washers, and the action really smoothed out, and the Camillus blades sped up.
I use a dremel with soft felt and 1000 & 2000 grit wet/dry paper on a flat hard backer to totally slick everything that rubs anything. My results are great, and tighter fit lets less junk in the pivot. Yes, the steel will wear the PB washers, but mirror smooth steel, on mirror smooth PB washers is a good starting point IMO.
The biggest advantage on my blades is the ability to run my pivot screw tighter, eliminating nearly all blade play, while still having smooth, quick opening.
And for lube, I use Tetra Gun products.
Just my .02 YMMV

BKRHD
 
I used a sheet of paper and a glass top with a little flitz on the paper. I start out by "coating" the washer then got to the dry paper and do small circles. this really polishes the washer and takes no metal off, or enough to make a difference. I must admit that it may just be my need to improve upon everything I get but it seems to help.
-Barry-
 
The polishing did little, if anything. Polishing just increased the clearances a little.
Bill
 
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