polishing wheels

P

paintfool

Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
301
I have a loose stiched cotton wheel, I am wondering if I can put it on my bench grinder and use it to polish my blades/handles...I'm kind of hesitant because of all the loose fibers.
Is this a safe idea if I take my time etc.?
If I do try this should I take the grinder guard off on that side and use it openly or should I leave it on?

I just got 3 blades HT'd and my thumbs hurt from trying to get them polished by hand :mad:
I'm still looking for a solid felt wheel around here so should I just wait?

any thoughts would be helpful at this point.
Thanks, Steve.
 
You're describing exactly what I do. I don't use my bench grinder anymore, so I've got a buffing wheel on both sides (one green the other white) so it will balance properly and give me more buffing options. You may want to get a real buffer eventually, though, because it will give you more room to work (the buffing wheels end up being kinda close to the motor).

- Chris
 
well so far so good, I still have all of my fingers and toes :D
and the best part is it's working like a charm :cool:
Steve
 
Steve,
The loose cotton wheel is usually used for final polishing using the pink abrasive. The grinder is probably a 3500 RPM and too fast for that application, IMHO. If you have a drill press I have heard of people using that for the loose wheel. Use the grinder for 4" sewed wheels and coarser polishing compounds.
Just my thoughts,
Lynn
 
Loose wheels tend to grab things out of your hands and throw them around the shop.

Sewn wheels with 1/2" spacing between rows of stitching are my preferred wheel.
 
What Lynn and George said. I have to confess that I do have one on a bench grinder....Don't follow my example !
I'm also careful as HE!! using it. Buffers are the most dangerous tools in the shop IMHO.
 
I used a bench grinder with buffs for a while, but now I have a Baldor buffer (much better). If you use your bench grinder get the 8" buffs, if they fit, because it will keep your work piece above the motor. The real buffers have longer arbors which make it alot easier. I also use the buffs George is referring to. I agree with Don, the buffer is the most dangerous tool you have. When it grabs something there's no turning back. :eek:
Scott
 
yes the wheel I'm using is a sewn wheel also, it's just that I meant it is more lose than a solid felt wheel ;)
I have to get some compound somewhere though, it's not doing much for the blade, but the handles look like glass :)
Steve.
 
Scott, I stand corrected on using smaller wheels. What you suggest is logical because of the motor. I only suggested using the smaller diameter buffs for safety reasons.
Sorry, Lynn
 
My heart won't take the suspense of loose buffing wheels. I have had the heart stopping wheel grabs and decided to use only hard wheels and go light with the pressure. Yes on the grinder buff wheels, HARD wheels. You need to use the buffer wheels on both arbors of the grinder so the shaft is balanced.
 
Lynn said:
Scott, I stand corrected on using smaller wheels. What you suggest is logical because of the motor. I only suggested using the smaller diameter buffs for safety reasons.
Sorry, Lynn
Click to expand...
I wasn't trying to contradict what you were saying Lynn, that was just what worked for me. I think no matter what size buff you use there is a safety harzard because of the chance it will grab the piece. One other thing I do and you guys will think I'm nuts, is I turned the buffer so it rotates away from me so it the piece is grabed it will throw it away from me instead of toward me.
Scott
 
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