Polishing with waterstone dust.

nozh2002 · Mar 31, 2008

I recently found few rust spot on one of my old knives. I already tryed before to use sandpaper - that was a disaster, it ruined fine polish etc. I started with Green Rouge and it turns to be too fine. So I start thinking about something more coarse, but still finer then sandpaper. And decide to use waterstone dust - scratch a bit from the waterstone corner and it works better, I take initially too fine and went to coarser again. Result turns out to be pretty good and much efficient then Green Rouge.

I use leather for polishing with that waterstone dust. In general this is same thing which waterstone develops during sharpening - mix of abrasive dust with water, like mud.

I do not now is it well known tip or not, but I discovered it on my own and it works very well for me.

Thanks, Vassili.

SakuTheGreat · Mar 31, 2008

Toothpaste also works very well to remove small rust spots without leaving scratches

StretchNM · Mar 31, 2008

I believe that's why everything I always read about sharpening with waterstones was to leave the slurry. I think the reasoning was, as the stone honed the edge, the slurry helped to polish it. THis all had to do with woodworking chisels, but recently, I've pulled out my old waterstones to use on scandi-grind knives.

Native Justice · Apr 1, 2008

Great tip Nozh. I've been using the slurry paste from my Norton 8000 waterstone the same way. For difficult spots I've used my dremel with the hard felt tip. Apply some of the slurry and it works like a top.

NJ

ksskss · Apr 1, 2008

I've been trying to promote a similar technique over at foodie and knifeforums.

1. Get your stone clean eg with nagura or a diamond plate. Rinse it off, leaving it wet.

2. With a DMT plate (coarse or less) flatten the stone and wipe off the grit from the stone and the plate, and quickly smear the grit on either copier (computer) paper or, my favorite, postit notes.

3. Let it dry. The stone abrasive sticks to the paper.. Cut small squares off as needed and using finger pressure (the finger adapts to the shape of the knife) rub the knife sides to remove scratches. The grit from a Bester 1200 removes small scratches reasonably well and a 2k Naniwa (natural synthetic blend IR-0260) gives a mirror polish. Try this out on your own stones rather than just letting it go down the drain. This grit on postits layed on a glass plate also works SUPERBLY for sharpening blades, in most instances better than the stone itself and can be used multiple times, even after turning black.

---
Ken

Zeasor · Apr 1, 2008

ksskss said:
I've been trying to promote a similar technique over at foodie and knifeforums.

1. Get your stone clean eg with nagura or a diamond plate. Rinse it off, leaving it wet.

2. With a DMT plate (coarse or less) flatten the stone and wipe off the grit from the stone and the plate, and quickly smear the grit on either copier (computer) paper or, my favorite, postit notes.

3. Let it dry. The stone abrasive sticks to the paper.. Cut small squares off as needed and using finger pressure (the finger adapts to the shape of the knife) rub the knife sides to remove scratches. The grit from a Bester 1200 removes small scratches reasonably well and a 2k Naniwa (natural synthetic blend IR-0260) gives a mirror polish. Try this out on your own stones rather than just letting it go down the drain. This grit on postits layed on a glass plate also works SUPERBLY for sharpening blades, in most instances better than the stone itself and can be used multiple times, even after turning black.

Ken--- Terrific tip. I have been using brown paper packaging tape (used to seal boxes, etc.) as a substrate for compounds. It sticks to cardboard, glass, even stones. The tape can be soaked off and the water-soluable glue easily washes away. It's tough and seems to hold compounds well. Would you please try this tape and let me know how it compares with other papers you have tried?

nozh2002 · Apr 1, 2008

I have good leather with pores - it is stronger then paper. I do not have too much use for waterstones - except for one only Yanagiba and so take dust from corner, anyway it is very flat.

Thanks, Vassili.

ksskss · Apr 2, 2008

Zeasor,

I also am starting to use paper tape (used for bandages) and just bought 4 rolls of the stuff, so I doubt I'll be buying more tape anytime soon, but feel free to send me some stuff to try. Not meaning to be difficult, but I still have three stones to try and a couple knives I'm redoing at the moment.

Vasili, I use paper because it (over glass) is flatter and doesn't give like leather. I like using it for flat rather than convex edges. Besides, One pack of postits lasts a loooong time. I use it for a wide range of grits.

---
Ken

nozh2002 · Apr 2, 2008

ksskss said:
Vasili, I use paper because it (over glass) is flatter and doesn't give like leather. I like using it for flat rather than convex edges. Besides, One pack of postits lasts a loooong time. I use it for a wide range of grits.

---
Ken

For polishing blade it does not matter and even preferable for concave grind. And I use same leather on wood for polishing edge - works for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQPwHu4lxsQ

Thanks, Vassili.