polishing

[snow and steel]

So I've been using my CAK for a while, and I've got scratches all over the polished blade.

Now, I'll admit I haven't kept the convex edge - I simply have a much easier time sharpening with a diamond rod. So the edge dosn't look traditional, but it is sharp and it works, and I personally can sharpen this way so I roll with it.

At any rate, between my sharpening, and my heavy chopping use, I've put scratches all over the polished finish. Now, I've read some members say they can be polished out and put back to a mirrir polish - but I'm curious what you use to do that? I can see where a scotch brite pad would dull it to a matte finish, but what if I want to polish it back to mirror polish without going to matte first? what would I use?

and info you could offer would be appreciated! thanks!

 

[Karda]

You can get it close to polished by using progressively finer grits of sandpaper.
220 grit will give you a satin finish similar to scotch brite.
320 will start to polish.
Grits above 320 will give you progressively finer polishing.
Unfortunately, factory mirror finish can only be achieved by using a buffing wheel.
If you choose to use a buffing wheel, be careful. They can be dangerous and turn a khukuri into a flying sharp projectile if you lose your grip while buffing.

 

[snow and steel]

think it can be done with a dremel and some blue or red buffing compound?

 

[Karda]

think it can be done with a dremel and some blue or red buffing compound?

It could probably be done, but the wheels are so small it would be a bit of work and may leave streaking.
The blue and red compunds are basically the same, they are jewellers rouge. The blue is made to be less greasy than the red. They are made more for soft metals such as brass,copper and aluminum.
Green compound will work, but it is more for stainless steel.
Better results would be achieved with the white or greyish compound. It is for stainless and most other steels.
The black compound will remove most scratches, but is a cutting rouge and must be used carefully so that you do not remove more material than intended.

 

[JayGoliath]

We can't get it here, at least in my country so i use dish cleaner type of polish cream; hand rub to work the dirt, tree goo within the scratches (be careful so you don't count the finger you haven't got), rinse, wipe .Repeat the same with another layer of toothpaste. I call this the poorman's polish.
Then use really clean/glass cleaner cloth free of steel powder or tiny stone to wipe it clean. A layer of baby oil on the blade will do you and the khuk a happy couple.

Most khuks should be used hence i prefer villager or black forged finish (Though Sarge just won't do it). My Gelbu was patina-ed to a nice finishing and i'm just too lazy to maintain that mirror finish for a user.

 

[snow and steel]

thanks guys!

 

[Howard Wallace]

If you want to both use the knife and maintain a mirror finish you are going to be putting a lot of time into the care of your knife. Not a bad thing, if you have the time and that is what you would most like to be doing.

On the other hand, a quick wipe with a scotch-brite pad will get the gunk off your knife. You will lose the mirror finish but you will have a lot more time for other things besides knife care.

Military guys like to keep everything polished. I think they have to polish stuff to keep them busy and out of trouble.

Myself, well I always have enough time to get into trouble.

 

[PghMitchS]

Has anyone used Semichome on their Khukuri? That is my usual polishing paste, but I've not used it with the steel HI uses. When I do use it, I use it sparingly and make sure the blade is wiped down with a clean cloth. I've never attempted to verify it, but I have heard it does have ammonia in the compound. If I use it on kitchen items, they get washed right after the final polish with a clean cloth just for safety's sake.

 

[Karda]

Has anyone used Semichome on their Khukuri? That is my usual polishing paste, but I've not used it with the steel HI uses. When I do use it, I use it sparingly and make sure the blade is wiped down with a clean cloth. I've never attempted to verify it, but I have heard it does have ammonia in the compound. If I use it on kitchen items, they get washed right after the final polish with a clean cloth just for safety's sake.

I think stickfred mentioned he uses it with good results.

 

[Ezaske]

I have used Semichome on many of my khuks. It has always worked well and never discolored the blade. It even makes the knives with a villager finish look better. Now, when ever I get a new khukri I give it an extended rub with Semichome as part of the initial clean up process.

 

[pmwc78]

If you enjoy tedious work you can get a product called micro-mesh. It's like a sandpaper with a cloth backing that goes up to 12000 grit (maybe higher). Websites devoted to woodworking supplies tend to have it.

 

[Bill Sanders]

Closest my khuks get to the original mirror finish is 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper. Normally all they get is a wipe down with a scotch pad and water, then dried and wiped down with oil. Maybe once a month or two, I polish them up a bit. Start with 320 grit, go to 400 at a 45 degree angle to the last grit, go to 600 grit, again at a 45 degree angle, and so on until I finish with 1500 grit. Wipe down with oil, or, if getting stored for longer than a week or so, I use a good carnuba paste wax.