Polyurethane Adhesive

[Natlek]

I use this thing all my life in my service .Wherever I used it, there was no failure . I used it on scale on this knife on picture .I used it on ceramic tile for my platen behind belt , when came time to change the ceramic tile, I cried! I can take off the epoxy-glued ceramic tile with one or two strokes on side ! This thing holds incredibly well on the substrate, glass, metal , wood irrelevant and it has an amazing ability to withstand shocks , vibration , completely resistant to moisture, water .............the only problem is that it's a little dirty work around cleaning the excess from scale /tang . I have somewhere in shop two piece wood glued with Polyurethane and two piece of steel glued with this thing and no way I can split that two piece wood ... Every car/bike service must to have it , the next time you go to the service bring two pieces of wood, do not use any preparation and no need to be perfectly flat and just ask them to glue them, leave them for 24 hours and then let me know when you manage to disassemble them
And I really wonder why no one uses it ?

I am talking about polyurethane-adhesive-sealant https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/pu18-black-flexible-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant

I don t think that I will ever again use it on platen ! You have no idea how hard it was to take off the ceramic tile and to clean the steel for the new one , it took me over an hour to do that !

Watch this video from 6 min and 14 sec. I am 99 % sure that they use same thing , watching it how it flow I'm sure it's not epoxy .

 

[fitzo]

They said they heated the adhesive to apply. Does that offer us any clue?

 

[Natlek]

They said they heated the adhesive to apply. Does that offer us any clue?

the special glue is heated to consistency of molasses................I have molasses , I used it sometimes when I make bait/boilies for carp fishing Polyurethane is much more dense then molasses , that's why I emphasized that it's a bit of a dirty job when you work with that. I have no idea my friend , maybe they heat it just for that reason , to make it more more fluid ? Is it too dense to be Epoxy? I worked with black epoxy, it's not even close to that density .
Never mind , i would like someone to try this and make some test ............

 

[FredyCro]

I would like to try it. Do you apply it with a gun? How do you get rid of the squeeze out? Does it harden, can it be completly ground off or is it gummy? How does it react to heat? How does it store? Can it be used after the recommended one year after manufacture?

 

[Natlek]

I would like to try it. Do you apply it with a gun? How do you get rid of the squeeze out? Does it harden, can it be completly ground off or is it gummy? How does it react to heat? How does it store? Can it be used after the recommended one year after manufacture?

Sorry Fredy , I somehow missed your questions . Yes , gun and then finger .It is easy to clean with cloth/rag excess glue .Of course it harden it is like rubber when harden .Heat when you grinding ? You have no problem with heat . I use often that thing in my service they have no time to store , I use up the cartridge quickly .But if it is not well closed it will harden on the opening in time. If it stays for a long time it will most likely harden deep in the cartridge .....
Here is what i used for several knives so far .Soon I will make one knives just to test that thing ..........

 

[FredyCro]

Thanks, Natlek, I will give this a go when before I use up the last Gflex.

 

[Travis Fry]

I'm nearly certain that the original Gorilla Glue here in the US is a polyurethane glue. And some of y'all are old enough to remember Tracy Mickely's epic Glue Wars thread, where Gorilla Glue won hands down for wood to metal bonds (JB Weld won for metal/metal). I'll typically use Gflex if I'm gluing micarta or G10 or other synthetics or for any stick tang, but I Gorilla Glue is the shnizzle for wood handles on full tang knives. The key is very flat surfaces and good clamping; Gorilla Glue basically turns to foam in open space, and has zero structural value. The thin glue line is key for the win.

 

[Natlek]

I'm nearly certain that the original Gorilla Glue here in the US is a polyurethane glue. And some of y'all are old enough to remember Tracy Mickely's epic Glue Wars thread, where Gorilla Glue won hands down for wood to metal bonds (JB Weld won for metal/metal). I'll typically use Gflex if I'm gluing micarta or G10 or other synthetics or for any stick tang, but I Gorilla Glue is the shnizzle for wood handles on full tang knives. The key is very flat surfaces and good clamping; Gorilla Glue basically turns to foam in open space, and has zero structural value. The thin glue line is key for the win.

Several years ago I used this polyurethane to glue ceramic tile for one of my grinders.When come time to change that tile .............it took me two afternoons to peel off the ceramics .So i get idea to use it on handles .I make some test then , wood on wood , wood on steel ..I have pictures somewhere .When i try to separate the wooden scale , on one side peeled off layer of wood / walnut / the glue didn't loosen. I didn't even manage to separate the steel on the steel, they were small pieces and I didn't have enough support ........