poo darn - any suggestions

SVanderkolff

SVanderkolff

Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
979
As you can see from the picture, I broke off the threaded portion while checking the fit of the ferrule. I really hate to throw out the blade. Any suggestions as to how to fit this?
Thanks
Steve
 
The only thing that I can think of is to high temp braze on a new threaded rod. If you keep the blade in water or wrapped with a wet rag the temper should not be affected. I would try to find a different way to make that transition in the future so that it doesn't happen in use, that is a weak area in the design IMHO. Good luck with the repair.
 
Mill in a T-slot into what is left of the tang, then braze a threaded rod that has a nut on the top to slide in the slot and then braze it
 
rocketmann said:
The only thing that I can think of is to high temp braze on a new threaded rod. If you keep the blade in water or wrapped with a wet rag the temper should not be affected. I would try to find a different way to make that transition in the future so that it doesn't happen in use, that is a weak area in the design IMHO. Good luck with the repair.
Click to expand...

Or TIG ?
 
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Get a 300 degree temp stick and make sure you don't exceed that temp while welding on a new thicker threaded rod... Be patient and take it slow give lots of time between small weld beads for it to cool... Id say weld about 1/4 of the new rod then let it fully cool to room temp before the next weld...
 
SVanderkolff said:
As you can see from the picture, I broke off the threaded portion while checking the fit of the ferrule. I really hate to throw out the blade. Any suggestions as to how to fit this?
Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...

Can we see the broken piece too?

Is it threaded that close to the guard ?

No 3 or 4 inches or more of tang extension before you thread it?


did you thread it and then etch ?
 
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I think that the problem would be in the process of welding itself. Any welding will heat the steel in the heat affected zone beyond its melting temp. I would expect to see grain growth and subsequent weakness in that area regardless of how carefull you were. The reason that I suggested high temp brazing is that the temps required fall well below what would cause grain growth and should produce a very strong join if done with care. I could be worring about nothing of course.
 
rocketmann said:
Would you worry about grain growth with tig ?
Click to expand...

I think he has an oven - so I was assuming he could run it through some normalizing cycles and re HT

With brazing, he still may overheat, but couldn't do the normalizing. .


And for the future, some larger radius curves?
and wider tang extension?
 
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I wrote this for someone just a week or so ago in another forum. Hard to believe but this is true. You can silver solder a length back on without hurting the heat treat of the blade if you take a thick slice of potatoe and run it up on the ricasso area. There is products you can get that will do the same thing called "heat trap" in fact it can be used to give a hamone on some steels. This is like a thick paste. Frank.
 
i froze a blade in water before to heat the tang so i could remove an antler handle. it worked great and it never discolored the blade from the heat. i bet a frozen potato would work really well.
 
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