Some of you Lanksy and Gatco sharpener users might find this interesting. Last year I had an old Lansky system sitting on my work bench looking all sad and lonely. While I was staring at it I thought .... what if you didn't have to fool around with clamping the knife in? I tried several methods and modifications, here is what I tried.
For all these methods I did not use the base or hold the unit because the idea was to not have to rotate the whole thing around but to simply flip just the knife as it would not be clamped into the Lansky jaws.. I used a bench vise, and clamped the lower part into it.
First I clamped a piece of flat metal between the jaws of the clamp and used it as a rest, Problem was it extended the edge of the blade too far out. It just didn't really work all that well.
Second attempt I clamped (between the jaws and back towards the tightening screw) a thin piece of flat metal, slightly thicker than the knife I was sharpening and not so wide as to keep the knife from resting on the bottom part of the clamp or extending too far out. Slide the knife into the gap, sharpen .... slide it out, flip it around and sharpen the other side. Worked pretty well and made it easy to alternate the sides of the edge to be worked on and gave a consistent way of placing the knife for even bevels.
Third attempt I physically cut the top part of the clamp back a little bit, leaving just the bottom part to rest the knife on. I cut the top part back enough to give me a place to but the spine of the blade against but not extend the edge too far forward. This method worked ok, but limited the widths of the blades I could use and negatively compromised the overall adjustability/flexibility of the system for different blade widths.
Fourth attempt, using the now cut jaw/clamp (but just the top one), I made a small right angle piece of flat metal which I could clamp between the jaws to make an adjustable stop. This piece extended back slightly beyond the jaw/clamp screw so it was necessary to file out a groove to accomodate the screw.
I had a pretty good degree of success using all but method one. I liked not having to physically clamp the knife in. However, if you are not too keen on cutting your system, stick to my second attempt. That way, your not physically altering your sharpener. Since I have an EdgePro and have also gotten into sharpening free hand I gave this unit away.
For all these methods I did not use the base or hold the unit because the idea was to not have to rotate the whole thing around but to simply flip just the knife as it would not be clamped into the Lansky jaws.. I used a bench vise, and clamped the lower part into it.
First I clamped a piece of flat metal between the jaws of the clamp and used it as a rest, Problem was it extended the edge of the blade too far out. It just didn't really work all that well.
Second attempt I clamped (between the jaws and back towards the tightening screw) a thin piece of flat metal, slightly thicker than the knife I was sharpening and not so wide as to keep the knife from resting on the bottom part of the clamp or extending too far out. Slide the knife into the gap, sharpen .... slide it out, flip it around and sharpen the other side. Worked pretty well and made it easy to alternate the sides of the edge to be worked on and gave a consistent way of placing the knife for even bevels.
Third attempt I physically cut the top part of the clamp back a little bit, leaving just the bottom part to rest the knife on. I cut the top part back enough to give me a place to but the spine of the blade against but not extend the edge too far forward. This method worked ok, but limited the widths of the blades I could use and negatively compromised the overall adjustability/flexibility of the system for different blade widths.
Fourth attempt, using the now cut jaw/clamp (but just the top one), I made a small right angle piece of flat metal which I could clamp between the jaws to make an adjustable stop. This piece extended back slightly beyond the jaw/clamp screw so it was necessary to file out a groove to accomodate the screw.
I had a pretty good degree of success using all but method one. I liked not having to physically clamp the knife in. However, if you are not too keen on cutting your system, stick to my second attempt. That way, your not physically altering your sharpener. Since I have an EdgePro and have also gotten into sharpening free hand I gave this unit away.