Popalar handle material, not popular

mattd

mattd

Joined
Oct 6, 2003
Messages
252
I was at the hardware store the other day looking for a piece of wood that doesn't have many grains. I thought It would be enteresting to see what happens. I am wondering if anyone else has used this material and what they think? Can I put rivets in like other woods or is there some trick to this kind of material?
 
Poplar or actually tulip poplar ? Both are softer than I would like for a handle. The better woods with plain grain and light color are hard maple or birch.Scandinavians often use birch. Both can be riveted if done carefully and they can be carved.There are darker woods with plain grain too such as walnut.
 
its probably just regular poplar, it cost $1.50 for a three foot piece of it. I got some nice looking oak too, does it work well?
 
You could try pear wood also. It will have a bit more grain than poplar, but finishes very nicely.

WS
 
There ARE some interesting aspects to polar though! First of all, just let me say that the softness of a wood really shouldn't be a concern if its stabilized - just my opinion. Poplar can be a very pretty wood and produce some fabulous w-i-d-e grain patterns if cut properly. The closer to the base of the trunk, the wider the grain pattern gets. Once the wood is harvested, slice it on a bias to the grain and the patterns will emerge.

I have made some very nice-looking stuff out of poplar. Beavers love the juicy bark from its branches and will cut down trees up to 2 feet in diameter just to get at them. I try to find this fallen wood. I get a kick out of telling folks that the wood in their knife handle, bowl, furniture - whatever - has been "touched by beavers."
 
J,
where do I find info on stablizing wood? Is all wood stableized the same?
 
Please don't let you're beaver eat stabilized wood , it's not safe.
 
Poplar is a great, easy cutting trim wood for your house, but I doubt it has the strength you want for a knife handle. Basically it has the same strength as white pine. Try birch - usually they're the hardwood dowels you find (at least in my neighborhood) in a hardware store. They have very little grain and much more strength than poplar. If you're bored, try putting a coat of WD-40 on birch. You get an interesting tan color with a slight hint of orange. It's almost like a "blond osage" if there were such a thing.

Tim
 
The Japanese use Hinoki or Ho wood for their saya (sword scabbards) and thuska (handles). The wood is easily worked, has the "plain/clean" look that the Japanese like, and doesn't really have the potential to prech blades via chemicals, like some woods can. But don't forget that Japanese handles that use Hinoki also usually have same palens (rayskin) and silk wrap over that, plus fuchi and kashira too (metal collars). Saya re calquered with a very hard lacquer, the mouth of the scabbard is often reinforced, and sometimes other metal fittings are put on it to help keep things together.

Translation: Poplar, a close relative of Ho wood, all by itself might not make the best handle. But you know what? Go ahead and play around, maybe you'll love the stuff. Maybe you'll try a wrap job!
 
Originally posted by mete
Please don't let you're beaver eat stabilized wood , it's not safe.
Click to expand...

*rubs chin whiskers*

Jeez, Mete I dunno bro... we got us a lot of beaver here in NH...

Hard to control 'em all.
 
Originally posted by TimWieneke
Poplar is a great, easy cutting trim wood for your house, but I doubt it has the strength you want for a knife handle.

Tim
Click to expand...

I respectfully disagree, Tim. I've made large bowls out of poplar with very thin walls less than 1/4 inch. They are all holding up just fine. With the curvature of the sides of some of my bowls, the grains themselves spread out over 3/4" between them! That makes for a very unique look.

I have also used poplar on knife handles that I have vacuum-stabilized with minwax wood hardener, and despite the "plastic" feel to them, they are quite hard and durable. Think about this: What is G-10 or Micarta? Nothing but paper, fiberglass, or cloth. Add the resin and you have a very durable product.

I've used Poplar in many different things, and its grain patterning has its merits and should not be dismissed as a poor choice of handle materials just because in its original state it is soft.

Oh and if any of you decide to experiment with poplar, I have a couple words of advice.

1. Be absolutely SURE its dry and seasoned well before you stabilize. Poplar is one wood that really suffers from warpage.

2. Keep whatever blades or instruments you use for working the wood very sharp, and SHEAR the wood - not just scrape it away. The shearing action produces a much better finish and you'll have less clean up, and way less fuzziness to the grain.
 
I thought the large grains of poplar would be good for the knife I'm making because the blade requires a uniquely shaped handle and I thought the less graines the better for looks and the awckward shape. Its hard to explain but I will post it soon. I used the poplar last night and I put a small split in it but when you see what I was trying too do you'll understand. :rolleyes:
 
Hi Jeff,
Was thinking unstabilized wood (yes, some of us still like it...lol), but I agree with you on the stabilized poplar. Plastic does some amazing things to brittle/soft materials.

Tim
 
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