Popping the pins on a Jag?

Ive had my jag for about 6 months now, and i havent quiet gone too easy on it, the pins are bent, so sometimes it locks up nicley, and sometimes its way to loose to stay latched, i wanna replace it with the nail method on Clay's site, whats the best way to pop out my stock pins? Thanks
 
Mine felt the same way before I re-pinned... but one of my pins fell out on its own... they're two-part press together pins, and one wasn't pressed together well enough. So that one wasn't too bad.

As for the other, I borrowed a friend's dremel and cutting wheels and ground the heads off of mine... just be ver careful to do it slowly, so you don't tear up the handle instead of the pin.

um... if you can find a professional wire-cutter that's chisel-ground and completely flat on one side, you might be able to coax it under the head of the pin, and pop it apart that way (?)
... but don't use one that's not completely flat, or you'll spend so much time wrangling with the knife, you'll tear it up unnecessarily in the process.

Another alternate method (I guess) would be to sit it down and make threats of violence and torture towards it if it isn't cooperative... didn't work for me, but ya never know.
 
P

pedder2226

Joined
Dec 11, 2000
Messages
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Lol, thats what i was thinking about doing, i got a dremel, so im just gonna cut off the heads, what size nail did you use?
 
Put masking or duct tape all around the area you don't want marked up!

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Please take your seats gentlemen; oh, and flip 'em if you've got 'em.
 
I didn't actually use nails... I used 1/8" stainless rod. It fit the dremel chuck perfectly, and I just spun it down with a metal file from there until it fit perfectly
 
Well, i found a good fit nail, popped the pins out cleanly, figured i'd do some tweaking with its apart, and broke my safe handle
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i dropped it right on one of the prongs the pin goes through, when i tried to bend it back it snapped, anyone got a safe handle for a Jag lying around?
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I had success with a dremel tool with the cutoff wheel. Just push in one side of the pin and get the cutoff wheel under the head of the other side. Use safety glasses!
As far as pins, I have never used nails but I hear that it works great.
I did one jag because the pins were already loose when I got home (manipulated while driving home).Just that short period, the pins were already wearing.
I redrilled the tang holes for 3/16". Bought some bearings (50 cents each) from an industrial supply place and are called oilite (oil impregnated bronze?). the bearings are 3/16" OD and the ID is 1/8". For pins, I used stainless pins sold in electronic stores and are called standoffs. These are used for circuit boards. They are internally threaded and I ground them to the length I needed. I used some thin brass washers to take out some of the play.
Drilling hardened steel is going to take a solid carbide bit and lots of coolant. Whatever you do don't stop the bit in the hole. Lots of trouble I know but it swings as smooth as the higher priced jobs. I have found that the tighter the tolerance (up to a point) between the pin and hole produces less sideways slop and smoother swings.
 
If you haven't gone and dremmeled your knife already, I'd suggest the following method (which I've used before). Take two pairs of pliers, and grab the head of the pins on opposite sides. Pull out. In my experience, the pins are not pressed together very tightly, and they come out with little effort if you use pliers.
 
I already did it, and did a good job with my dremel. I used a sanding drum, put tape around the area, and slowly ground the mushroomed head off, then i used a awl to tap the pins out, worked well, and no dings
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But, as i stated, i broke one handle, we'll see how the JB weld holds up
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someone posted using small used center punches to replace the pins. They just cut the punches to fit and peaned them down.
 
I used a finshing nail(i forgot what size) and it worked well, at least for the one good handle i have
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real smooth, and a good fit
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by balut:

I did one jag because the pins were already loose when I got home (manipulated while driving home).Just that short period, the pins were already wearing.

(sssnipp)

I have found that the tighter the tolerance (up to a point) between the pin and hole produces less sideways slop and smoother swings.[/B]</font>
Click to expand...

Here's a question for ya...what would be the possibility that you'd do this for my Jag, if I were to send it to you, and if you would, what would the cost for parts and service be? What you have described is exactly what I have in mind when it comes time to refit MrJ...and it sounds as if you've got the tools and no-how that I don't.

Just wondering....

Best Regards,

Phil
 
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