Portaband and S90v

navman

navman

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
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Alrighty blade making gurus (and other assorted steel junkies), I have a dilemma to deal with. Cutting .156 thick bladestock from a plate of S90v, I have been using a 14tpi Starrett bimetal blade from Mcmasterr Carr on a HF portaband. The saw blade lasts for approximately 1 blank at the lowest speed setting before becoming dull. I am following the break in procedures outlined by Starrett. It cuts titanium and AEBL without issue.

Any recommendations, TTPs, etc?

Help me Obi Wan Kenobi(s), your my only hope....
 
I'm going to go out on a limb and say.. welcome to working with s90v. I use a abrasive wheel to chop up my blanks, then grind to profile.
 
I tried to use my Milwaukie portaband and could get about 6" of S35VN before the blade was gone. It's just too fast. Now, I use a 4" grinder to rough cut the bland and then finish grinding with a 10" wheel and 36 grit belt.

Tim
 
Seems to be the consensus. I have a few different TPI blades on the way and will experiment, but I will probably end up back with a cut off disc and grinder/ files. I have used S110v as well and could not cut it, had to grind it to shape.
 
Gave the 18 TPI a try...after break in and at the lowest setting...cut like a champ. That's one blade, now let's see how many I can get profiled.
 
The finer tooth pattern means more cuts per revolution, which translates into more knife blades per bandsaw blade. I like 18 TPI for most work, and 24 TPI for thinner stock.


Also, the type of blade matters. Not all "bi-metal" blades are equal. Try a Die-master II blade and see if it doesn't last a lot longer.

The next suggestion is to set up a dedicated larger saw. Get a HF 7" metal saw when they are on sale and throw out the base ( unless you will be cutting bar and pipe often). Mount the arm vertically and put the motor behind it with a longer V-belt attached to the smallest pulley of the gear box. Make a new table that will raise the table to within 1" of the upper blade guides, or make the blade guide slide longer by cutting it in half and welding on a 5" extension. Once the saw is firmly mounted on the end of your workbench (since it has the blade at a slight angle, the corner works perfect), you can put on a Lenox Die-master or similar blade and cut hundreds of blades before replacement.
 
Hi Stacy. When I transfer back CONUS (back to Norfolk/Virginia Beach area for my twilight tour) that is my plans. I will be making a visit to HF down Military Highway. Unfortunately that won't be for another year and a half, so HF portaband it is. I am using the Starret UNIVERZ blades from Mcmaster Carr. I have heard excellent reviews about the Die-master II blades from many makers.

Cheers! Josh
 
Lenox Die master 2's here, 14-18 TPI 1/4" blades. I use 3/16 CPM 154 and S35vn and can get quite a few blades cut before the blade starts burning the material. Slowest setting on my JET metal/wood saw. I actually wish they lasted longer or were a bit cheaper... The blades actually stay cool to the touch, the steel actually gets pretty hot and can work harden instantly if the blade is getting dull. It all works out though as if I had to grind to shape I'd go through more belts and it would take longer.
 
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