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portable knife target
- Thread starter kokoek9
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 6,168
I can think of 3 options right off the top of my head -
1 - I saw where a guy used a folding aluminum step ladder and made some mods to it - bolted some "arms" to the ladder legs to hold it up and a couple more higher up to keep it from tipping forward.
2 - You could make something similar, (this is my mental design that I just haven't gotten around to making it yet}.
Using 4 2x4s for the legs, a couple of 2x4s for the top flats where you would use a couple of large door hinges to allow it to fold open/closed.
Then a couple of 2x4 near the bottom to stabilize the legs laterally,
and
then a couple of 2x4s in the middle, 1 in front to support the target butt and 1 across the back legs opposite the butt support.
Then a chain/rope between the front/back middle boards to keep the legs from opening out too far.
And finally a couple of boards to stabilize the top of the butt.
To assist in portability I intend to mount some lawn mower wheels on the legs.
The 3rd option is similar to my design, but is a three-legged design, 2 forward and 1 back, 2 chains from the front legs to the back leg. The top is either with all 3 legs coming together at the top or having the 3 legs fixed laterally on a pipe.
I need to get busy making mine, I guess.
1 - I saw where a guy used a folding aluminum step ladder and made some mods to it - bolted some "arms" to the ladder legs to hold it up and a couple more higher up to keep it from tipping forward.
2 - You could make something similar, (this is my mental design that I just haven't gotten around to making it yet}.
Using 4 2x4s for the legs, a couple of 2x4s for the top flats where you would use a couple of large door hinges to allow it to fold open/closed.
Then a couple of 2x4 near the bottom to stabilize the legs laterally,
and
then a couple of 2x4s in the middle, 1 in front to support the target butt and 1 across the back legs opposite the butt support.
Then a chain/rope between the front/back middle boards to keep the legs from opening out too far.
And finally a couple of boards to stabilize the top of the butt.
To assist in portability I intend to mount some lawn mower wheels on the legs.
The 3rd option is similar to my design, but is a three-legged design, 2 forward and 1 back, 2 chains from the front legs to the back leg. The top is either with all 3 legs coming together at the top or having the 3 legs fixed laterally on a pipe.
I need to get busy making mine, I guess.
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 6,168
Let's see if I can explain what my brain is seeing since I don't have a CAD program available.....
This target stand is based on the following assumption...
1) Target butt is made of end-grain 2x4s as depicted in the IKTHOF video and is approximately 24" x 24".
2) There will be only 1 target butt on the stand, as compared to the IKTHOF competition standard of 3 adjacent targets, with the center of the middle target at 50" (127cm) and the center of the 2 outer targets at 60" (152cm).
3) The final height of the center of the single target is 55" (139cm) above the ground. This is a compromise of half way between the 2 center heights for standard IKTHOF target heights (see specs in assumption 2).
Construction materials consist of
4 - 2x4s 72 inches long (Legs 1,2,3,4)
7 - 2x4s 21 inches long (Boards A, B, C, D, E, F, G)
2 large door hinges (or 3 hinges if you are into overkill)
2 pieces of light chain 24 inches long (rope could be used instead)
screws for the hinges with provided hinges (or 1.5" screws to provide additional hold... typically the screws that come with the hinges are about 1" long).
28 3" or 4" wood screws, preferably stainless steel or galvanized (outdoor use screws) for the leg construction.
4 - 3" screw hooks
4 - zip ties
4 - 2" angle brackets and screws. 3" or 4" brackets may be used for overkill.
optional - 14 additional angle brackets to use in backing up the wood screws holding boards A, B, C, D, E, F and G to the legs
This "easel stand" has 4 legs. The 4 legs are all about 2 legs angle forward and 2 legs angle backwards. Each set of leg are joined using 3 of the shorter 2x4s as follow......
The 2 front legs are joined together by using 3 shorter 2x4s. Specifically, 2x4s A, B and C.
Board A is attached to the ends of legs 1 and 2 with 2 long wood screws on each end. The screws go through the 4" side of the board into the end grain of the legs, forming 3 sides of a rectangle. The purpose of Board A is to hold the top ends of the legs rigid and provide a location for the hinges to be attached.
The 4th side of the rectangle is board C. It is placed flat on the upper edge of the legs, about 1 inch up from the end of the legs. using 2 long wood screws on each end. The purpose of Board C is to keep legs 1 and 2 stable laterally. The 1 inch clearance is to allow for the nose of a dolly to be slid under the target stand for transportation.
Board B is attached between boards A and C in an orientation the same as that of board C, with the upper (closest to board A) edge 45" from the bottom ends of legs 1 and 2. The purpose of Board B is to provide a ledge for the target butt to rest on while it is being attached to the stand and stiffen the middle of the legs.
Legs 3/4 and Boards D, E, and F are screwed together as A,B, and C.
The "back legs" section is placed short boards down and the "front legs" section is lined up on top of the "back legs" section with the short boards up so that the the ends of the legs are aligned.
The 2 (or 3) hinges are attached to the TOP of boards A and D using the hinge screws provided with the hinges, or you can use longer 1.5" outdoor wood screws for greater hold.
At about 36" from the bottom of the legs, drill pilot holes in the center of the legs from the sides and then screw in the 4 hook screws. The purpose of the hook screws is to have something to attach the chains to, so that the legs won't spread apart farther than you want them too.
Zip tie the chains to the hook screws so they won't accidentally slip off.
Stand the target stand up and spread its legs. Adjust the chains accordingly so as to position the legs how far apart you want them. You can adjust the target center somewhat by adjusting the leg separation.
Lift the target butt up and place it on the target butt rest. Use 4 angle brackets to attach the target to the front legs.
Additional options - a couple of handles for lifting/dragging the target stand to the desired location and a couple of scavenged lawn mower wheel bolted near the bottom of the back legs for rolling the stand around when folded up.
Hope this is clearer than mud. It makes sense to me but I know what I'm thinking.
Dang. I almost could have built one in the time it took me to explain it.
EDIT::: A picture will be added after I make it.
since I don't have a CAD program available.....This target stand is based on the following assumption...
1) Target butt is made of end-grain 2x4s as depicted in the IKTHOF video and is approximately 24" x 24".
2) There will be only 1 target butt on the stand, as compared to the IKTHOF competition standard of 3 adjacent targets, with the center of the middle target at 50" (127cm) and the center of the 2 outer targets at 60" (152cm).
3) The final height of the center of the single target is 55" (139cm) above the ground. This is a compromise of half way between the 2 center heights for standard IKTHOF target heights (see specs in assumption 2).
Construction materials consist of
4 - 2x4s 72 inches long (Legs 1,2,3,4)
7 - 2x4s 21 inches long (Boards A, B, C, D, E, F, G)
2 large door hinges (or 3 hinges if you are into overkill)
2 pieces of light chain 24 inches long (rope could be used instead)
screws for the hinges with provided hinges (or 1.5" screws to provide additional hold... typically the screws that come with the hinges are about 1" long).
28 3" or 4" wood screws, preferably stainless steel or galvanized (outdoor use screws) for the leg construction.
4 - 3" screw hooks
4 - zip ties
4 - 2" angle brackets and screws. 3" or 4" brackets may be used for overkill.
optional - 14 additional angle brackets to use in backing up the wood screws holding boards A, B, C, D, E, F and G to the legs
This "easel stand" has 4 legs. The 4 legs are all about 2 legs angle forward and 2 legs angle backwards. Each set of leg are joined using 3 of the shorter 2x4s as follow......
The 2 front legs are joined together by using 3 shorter 2x4s. Specifically, 2x4s A, B and C.
Board A is attached to the ends of legs 1 and 2 with 2 long wood screws on each end. The screws go through the 4" side of the board into the end grain of the legs, forming 3 sides of a rectangle. The purpose of Board A is to hold the top ends of the legs rigid and provide a location for the hinges to be attached.
The 4th side of the rectangle is board C. It is placed flat on the upper edge of the legs, about 1 inch up from the end of the legs. using 2 long wood screws on each end. The purpose of Board C is to keep legs 1 and 2 stable laterally. The 1 inch clearance is to allow for the nose of a dolly to be slid under the target stand for transportation.
Board B is attached between boards A and C in an orientation the same as that of board C, with the upper (closest to board A) edge 45" from the bottom ends of legs 1 and 2. The purpose of Board B is to provide a ledge for the target butt to rest on while it is being attached to the stand and stiffen the middle of the legs.
Legs 3/4 and Boards D, E, and F are screwed together as A,B, and C.
The "back legs" section is placed short boards down and the "front legs" section is lined up on top of the "back legs" section with the short boards up so that the the ends of the legs are aligned.
The 2 (or 3) hinges are attached to the TOP of boards A and D using the hinge screws provided with the hinges, or you can use longer 1.5" outdoor wood screws for greater hold.
At about 36" from the bottom of the legs, drill pilot holes in the center of the legs from the sides and then screw in the 4 hook screws. The purpose of the hook screws is to have something to attach the chains to, so that the legs won't spread apart farther than you want them too.
Zip tie the chains to the hook screws so they won't accidentally slip off.
Stand the target stand up and spread its legs. Adjust the chains accordingly so as to position the legs how far apart you want them. You can adjust the target center somewhat by adjusting the leg separation.
Lift the target butt up and place it on the target butt rest. Use 4 angle brackets to attach the target to the front legs.
Additional options - a couple of handles for lifting/dragging the target stand to the desired location and a couple of scavenged lawn mower wheel bolted near the bottom of the back legs for rolling the stand around when folded up.
Hope this is clearer than mud. It makes sense to me but I know what I'm thinking.
Dang. I almost could have built one in the time it took me to explain it.
EDIT::: A picture will be added after I make it.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2006
- Messages
- 1,360
I'm that guy that did it out of the aluminum step ladder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFhdU6_wkNk
One thing I did notice when I was practicing at my throwing partner's house is that on pre-finished concrete heavy throwers can move the target.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFhdU6_wkNk
One thing I did notice when I was practicing at my throwing partner's house is that on pre-finished concrete heavy throwers can move the target.