Possible damage to my Spyderco Military blade

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ToXicXxX

ToXicXxX

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So recently I was trying to cut what I thought was a simple ribbon with my favorite knife, and so I gave it a gentle slice, but I then noticed it wouldn't give, so I gave it a few gentle motions. I then noticed to my chagrin that the ribbon had those stupid steel wires in the sides. My blade now feels no where near as immaculately sharp and if I run a fingernail over it I feel almost a microscopic divit or two. I hope my pictures perhaps shed some light on it.

I have a Spyderco sharpmaker on the way, and im hoping that it will solve my problems.

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I also have one of these, not sure if it would help. Honestly cannot remember how I came by it.

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The virgin edge looks nifty good to my low standard eyes :D It probably just a couple tiny dents on the edge, I would ignore them for now until your sharpmaker arrive. If you like, you can probably partially smooth these dents out by steeling on the edge/lip of the pyrex pan at the same factory angle (probably 15 degrees per side).
 
bluntcut said:
The virgin edge looks nifty good to my low standard eyes :D It probably just a couple tiny dents on the edge, I would ignore them for now until your sharpmaker arrive. If you like, you can probably partially smooth these dents out by steeling on the edge/lip of the pyrex pan at the same factory angle (probably 15 degrees per side).
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Which angle should I be using on the sharp maker? Should probably watch a few videos on the thing and maybe test it on one of my CRKT's before.
 
use sharpie to mark your edge bevel, then start gentle grind using finest rod with 30* (inclusive) - go higher or lower angle, whichever angle abrade the marker completely. Once you figured out the angle, progress from medium to finest rods to create a new edge, which should be a lot better than factory.
 
bluntcut said:
use sharpie to mark your edge bevel, then start gentle grind using finest rod with 30* (inclusive) - go higher or lower angle, whichever angle abrade the marker completely. Once you figured out the angle, progress from medium to finest rods to create a new edge, which should be a lot better than factory.
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Sounds like quite the process! A lot better then factory eh? That blade was the sharpest thing i've ever touched! What happens if I screw up?
 
Lol - it's a journey so yeah you'll screw up early on as expected but once you've learned to fill gas in your sport car, it's exhilarating ride ever after...
 
bluntcut said:
Lol - it's a journey so yeah you'll screw up early on as expected but once you've learned to fill gas in your sport car, it's exhilarating ride ever after...
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So I should probably not be trying this on my spyderco first?

Funny story, my ex girlfriend had no idea how to put gas in her car. The one time she tried she almost put diesel. It was my job since then. I wonder what she does these days.
 
I can't envision how much damage you can really do using a sharp maker, except for rounding the tip. Just make sure you keep the blade vertical, there isn't much room for screw up. Hm... diesel in gasoline engine - maybe she tries to increase the engine compression ratio - organically :)
 
nice military! makes me miss my black one that i sold to a buddy awhile ago (i still have my orange one though)...sharpmaker with the 15° should fix it right up!

if you haven't already, i highly recommend picking up the ultra-fine stones too. we've been using ours to cut sheetrock/insulation/wood trimming/etc. this past several weeks (his house got flooded from hurricane sandy) and all it takes is a few minutes with the sharpmaker to bring it sharper than how it came from the factory :)
 
JV3 said:
nice military! makes me miss my black one that i sold to a buddy awhile ago (i still have my orange one though)...sharpmaker with the 15° should fix it right up!

if you haven't already, i highly recommend picking up the ultra-fine stones too. we've been using ours to cut sheetrock/insulation/wood trimming/etc. this past several weeks (his house got flooded from hurricane sandy) and all it takes is a few minutes with the sharpmaker to bring it sharper than how it came from the factory :)
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Orange? one of those safety ones? Thats quite the use! I work at Rona when im not working on my degree, and i've seen a lot of contractors with spyderco's. Mind you they were beat to shit, but still. I have the ultra fine, just didn't get the diamond one (sooo expensive!). I think the most action this one has seen is some heavy nylon rope. I thought it only had a 40, 30 and 12.5 degree?
 
ToXicXxX said:
Orange? one of those safety ones? Thats quite the use! I work at Rona when im not working on my degree, and i've seen a lot of contractors with spyderco's. Mind you they were beat to shit, but still. I have the ultra fine, just didn't get the diamond one (sooo expensive!). I think the most action this one has seen is some heavy nylon rope. I thought it only had a 40, 30 and 12.5 degree?
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this one:

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the sharpmaker has a 40° inclusive (20° per side) and 30° inclusive (15° per side) settings. my military, para-military 2 and manix 2 are all 15° per side from the factory so yours is probably too (or very close to it). i do have the bushcraft (fixed blade) and the scandi grind on it is roughly 12° per side but other than that i'm not sure what else is around that's 12.5°.

so long as you don't chip the edge or reprofile it i don't think you'll need the diamond stones...just don't get it too dull (usually at the end of the day i try to cut printer paper and if it can't cut it at all i go ahead and touch it up before using it again. it will continue to cut cardboard for a long time though!) and the brown stones is coarse enough from what i've experienced.
 
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