possible fix?

skoalart

skoalart

Joined
Dec 17, 2013
Messages
15
While I was on the belt sander putting in my plunge lines I slipped a little and caused a problem. is there any way to fix this without thinning my knife?question.jpg
Thank you for your time and potential help.
 
Bring your plunge line all the way back to take out all the goof, and duplicate on the other side? I'm guessing that would look odd. No way to add material and start over, so only thing left is to try and blend it and make it look intentional.

Edit to add a photo... I'm suggesting something like the heavy beveled edge to the plunge line on this Shiro. It's basically a 45 degree chamfer. Not sure if this would work for you or ruin the look. Just an idea.

20180828_054655~01.jpg
 
Last edited:
TRfromMT said:
Bring your plunge line all the way back to take out all the goof, and duplicate on the other side? I'm guessing that would look odd. No way to add material and start over, so only thing left is to try and blend it and make it look intentional.
Click to expand...
Well , that s the way how I end up with ...........plunge less knife :) I grind all tang ;)
UQMwQMz.jpg
 
Maybe you can try to change angle of plunge line ? I mean leave in same spot on spine plunge line and grind till you get clean line ?
Something like this ? Red line is new plunge line ?
hdBCAbj.png
 
I think I am going to try to make it appear chamfered. I already cut in the choil on 2 other blades. I will be investing in a file guide asap. Thank yall for all the help.
 
Check out bill behnke file guide. He makes an aluminum one for $75. I use it for every knife and never had a problem with the aluminum.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
For the next one:
One reason to add the choil after the plunge is your present situation.
Click to expand...
Diamond file? Daimond burr? I don't have a small wheel that is small enough for a choil on most knives. How do you cut the choil after HT? (or are you just saying add the choil after you establish the basic plunge lines, not after you finish grind them?) I have always just used the file guide as mentioned above.
 
TRfromMT said:
...No way to add material and start over...
Click to expand...
Actually, there is a way (imho). :) Find very skilled tig welder and ask him to add material where You need it. Regrind plunge line. Then You have to repeat heat treating all over including annealing.
 
Jesenius said:
Actually, there is a way (imho). :) Find very skilled tig welder and ask him to add material where You need it. Regrind plunge line. Then You have to repeat heat treating all over including annealing.
Click to expand...

I actually considered that, and I suppose it is within the art-of-the-possible. I figured it would warp the thing too badly to be worth saving. I'm not a blade smith, though, so my brain always goes to making do with what's left.
 
joedhiggins said:
Diamond file? Daimond burr? I don't have a small wheel that is small enough for a choil on most knives. How do you cut the choil after HT? (or are you just saying add the choil after you establish the basic plunge lines, not after you finish grind them?) I have always just used the file guide as mentioned above.
Click to expand...
This is 67 hrc blade .I use cheap diamond burr for Dremel , they cut choil easy ....
rAMoS48.jpg
 
TRfromMT said:
... I figured it would warp the thing too badly to be worth saving...
Click to expand...
Skilled welder knows how to fix it to welding table. Worked piece remain fixed to table until it is completely cooled. This ensure it will stay straight.
 
I tried cutting in the choil after heat treat once. Since then I have done it before. I only recently acquired a belt sander so everything I have done in the past has been entirely by hand with files and sandpaper. I probably should have gotten a file guide when I first started but I have very limited finances.

As for welding a volume less than 1/8^3 that would take a skilled person far surpassing my skill (never even touched a welding machine)
 
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