Possible Khuk Finishing Substance

Now that's interesting. I've got the equivalent of the AC K-SWD that I can try it on.
 
If it's like the Loctite brand "Extend" rust treatment that we use here at the plant, it's good stuff. We use it here on rusty metal. Scrape or brush off the loose stuff, paint it on, then topcoat with paint the next day. MSDS says it contains an organic acid, (probably phosphoric), in the 1-5% range. It's contained in a latex paint-like binder.

Interesting.

Steve
 
I note that the instructions recommend top coating with paint afterwards, that would suggest that it could rust again if left outdoors for extended periods.
 
I've used something similar on other stuff. My primary complaint is that it stinks to high heaven.

None of my khuks have ever gotten to the point where it would be worthwhile to use a rust converter, but if one does I'll give it a shot.
 
I dunno if a rust-conversion product like this is preferable to leaving as-is, or taking the object to the old belt grinder, and linishing it back to its original specs.
One might say, " It's either original Nepali Ghorka rust, or it isn't." Hmmm...
When I asked a fairly well-known tool collector about removing rust from a decent old Stanley plane, he said, "rust has no collectors value." I guess it's about how unobtrusively it's done. Careful restoration, rather than polishing the $hit out of it is my objective. However it's done.
 
I've used the Extend that Steve mentioned when I was working on my old '67 AMC Ambassador.
I've also used it on an old cast iron No.7 kettle that I also used JB Weld on to repair a rather large hole in the bottom, good stuff.

I've also restored a couple of old German Solingen knives.
One was a beautiful serpentine Bowie that I dissassembled and carefully brought back to a full pit free satin finish except for one side of the blade on the ricasso. I gave it to my oldest grandson one year for Christmas.
The other was just an ordinary hunting knife that was rusted enough that it was unusable as it was. All I did with it was bring it back to usable condition and put it in my collection.

I've had the two old Atlanta Cutlery Khukuris for a long time now as well as the kardas I got from them. None of them have been touched yet.
Methinks they could be brought a long ways back as there are so many of them but so far I haven't been able to bring myself to do it.
Only thing I've really done is run a file along their edges to check the hardness.
One is good to go and the file skates nicely, the oldest one. The WW II I got the file will cut. I figure it's somewhere about 52 Rc maybe.
 
Has anybody here tried using electrolysis to remove rust from old knives or tools? Try searching google for "rust electrolysis". There are lots of tutorials. You only need minimal equipment and people say it works real well for restoring antiques (although I haven't tried it myself). It will remove the rust but leave a patina.
 
cliff355 said:
My mower is a little big for that process, but I have a '92 Winchester given to me as a relic some time ago which is rusted shut. Unfortunately it also appears to be loaded and I have been trying to figure out a way to loosen that thing up and get the round out.
Click to expand...
Cliff a long careful soaking in Naval Jelly might do the trick as well. I think if you coated it well and then wrapped in some sort of Saran Wrap or similar to help keep it from drying out and evaporating it might help do the trick.
 
In my experience electrolysis does NOT leave patina on a piece of metal. The process is actually removing a thin layer of metal (and the corrosion attached to it), and it ultimately leaves a bright, shiny surface. Yes, you can carefully remove corrosion using this technique and salvage some of the origional patina, but I would not try it with anything that is particularly valuable.

You also end up with an unbelievable volume of toxic biproducts using electrolysis--but it's very cool.
 
Cliff,
Any of these processes will leave you with a lump of iron that resembles a Winchester receiver. A relic is a relic. Leave it alone. Stabilize the active rust with Balistol, or some such product and resist the urge to "salvage" it. If you're worried about the round in the chamber, take it to a competent gunsmith and have him pull the bullet, dump out the powder and de-activate the primer with oil.
Enjoy it for what it is, a piece of American history. Make up a story about your grandfather and a grizzly, if you need to, but don't try to turn that piece into a shooter, without competent gunsmith advice. My $.02. :D
 
Seems to me that WD-40 neutralizes primers...dunno where I read/heard this information. As a precaution, might just soak either the magazine or the chamber in it.

It won't HURT it, may de-fuse. Again, dunno for sure.

wacherass.
 
bismark77 said:
In my experience electrolysis does NOT leave patina on a piece of metal. The process is actually removing a thin layer of metal (and the corrosion attached to it), and it ultimately leaves a bright, shiny surface. Yes, you can carefully remove corrosion using this technique and salvage some of the origional patina, but I would not try it with anything that is particularly valuable.

You also end up with an unbelievable volume of toxic biproducts using electrolysis--but it's very cool.
Click to expand...

I'm sure you're right about the patina. I'm just going off of what I read once in a ABANA magazine article. The author didn't mention any toxic byproducts either - just that the solution that you use gets colored from the rust over time. Could you elaborate on this?
 
On primers: American Rifleman responded to a Mailbag question concerning the neutralization of primers with a note from one of the ammunition companies. They said that penetrating oils will TEMPORARILY neutralize a primer, but that the compound will still be useable once it dries. They emphasized that there was no good way to kill a primer. FWIW

On electrolysis: I've used electrolitic cleaning on some old crusty bronze items and some badly corroded pieces of copper and brass. I used a saline bath method with a 6v lantern battery--very simple. The metal items bubble and fizz and the crusty dirt and corrosion come right off in the solution (or under light scrubing after they come out of te bath). The process forms lots of fluffy, light, multi-colored metal salts that float and sink and build up to look like stalactites and stalagmites in a cave. The vloume of these biproducts is astounding! (at least with cooper and its alloys--iron might produce a lot less) I have photos somewhere that I might be able to find.
 
Here are (I hope) some photos of one of my electrolytic cleaning set-ups. I'm cleaning ancient brionze coins in this little bath. The photos don't really do justice to the colorful biproducts, but you can sorta see them.

Photos Here

This is my first attempt at posting photos, so any help or advice is welcomed.

(thanks KM!)
 
bismark77 said:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59116229@N00/sets/654334/

This is my first attempt at posting photos, so any help or advice is welcomed.
Click to expand...

Your URL is messed up. The text is correct, but the hyperlink is missing. So when I copy and paste the text, I can visit your photo album - but when I click on the link, it just goes to the fictitious "http://".

If you edit your post, you will see what I mean. Right now you have

"<URL=http://>http://www.flickr.com/photos/59116229@N00/sets/654334/</URL>"

(I replaced the square brackets [] with angle brackets <> so the software doesn't interpret that literally - when you edit your post you will see the square brackets)

It should say:

"<URL=http://www.flickr.com/photos/59116229@N00/sets/654334/>http://www.flickr.com/photos/59116229@N00/sets/654334/</URL>"

which would come out as http://www.flickr.com/photos/59116229@N00/sets/654334/

or if you want:

"<URL=http://www.flickr.com/photos/59116229@N00/sets/654334/>My Electolysis Photo Gallery</URL>"

which would so up as:
"My Electolysis Photo Gallery"

In the future, all you really have to do is paste the link as text. The vBulletin software ought to automatically take care of the URL tags so you never see them.
 
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