Possible Sharpening manual.

Should I continue on with this?

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 80.0%
  • No

    Votes: 3 20.0%

  • Total voters
    15
Joined
Apr 21, 2016
Messages
226
Here's a little teaser of something I'm beginning to put together, just a low-effort mockup...

Sharpening book.JPGLet me know what you guys think?
 
On one hand, don't let us stop you if it's a project you want to pursue.

On the other hand, what would differentiate your manual from the dozens of free YouTube videos and other resources that are readily available?
 
On one hand, don't let us stop you if it's a project you want to pursue.

On the other hand, what would differentiate your manual from the dozens of free YouTube videos and other resources that are readily available?
Im planning to go into detail, cover all different areas (not just knives), cover equipment, go into some of the science... A sharpening bible of sorts.
 
I'd say if you're passionate about it continue it, if you hope for a big financial reward don't. Can't hurt to create it if you enjoy the project and then self publish on Amazon after some marketing efforts on the usual channels.
 
There's a published book that's supposed to be the "big reference" on sharpening, but I don't own a copy. ....ah found it. "The Complete Guide To Sharpening" by Leonard Lee. It seems (based on reviews and the cover) to be oriented towards woodworking tools. So I was never really interested.

Juranich's famous "Razor Edge Book of Sharpening" covers maybe 6 or 7 different tools to sharpen, including arrows and an Adz. But it's certainly far from complete.

To cover "everything" you'd really have to get pretty crazy. A few examples: Lawnmower blades, which I think are simple 90 degree angles or "flat edges". Scissors, which come in several very expensive configurations and include ones with concave surfaces. These seem to be where a lot of mystery and a lot of money are in the sharpening business. Industrial equipment including things like paper cutters.

In this last case (industrial stuff) apparently the surface finish is super duper important and has to be not too polished or it doesn't work right. Heavy Handed (Martin) has some stories about that which are quite interesting. I've also seen demonstrations of sharpening industrial stuff that runs at super high speeds. Their procedure involves creating an edge, then polishing it through several stages. Then they cut the edge off to a specific edge flatness. So it's nice and polished, but it no longer comes to a point. Instead it comes to a flat spot of a specific width, which has been determined to not collapse under the great forces involved in these cuts, yet also cut the media that needs to be cut and do it cleanly.

I'm not trying to be contrary or outlandish. Just pointing out that there is a pretty wide variety of sharpening to be done in this world. If you really want to cover it all, it's going to be quite a work. Of course it could start with a lot and get added to over time. Or you could just cover a subset of common cutting tools.

You used the phrase "easily accessible". How do you plan to distribute this work? Are you planning on selling it, or doing this as more of a labor of love?

As a student of sharpening, I find this topic interesting for sure. :)

Brian.
 
There's a published book that's supposed to be the "big reference" on sharpening, but I don't own a copy. ....ah found it. "The Complete Guide To Sharpening" by Leonard Lee. It seems (based on reviews and the cover) to be oriented towards woodworking tools. So I was never really interested.

Juranich's famous "Razor Edge Book of Sharpening" covers maybe 6 or 7 different tools to sharpen, including arrows and an Adz. But it's certainly far from complete.

To cover "everything" you'd really have to get pretty crazy. A few examples: Lawnmower blades, which I think are simple 90 degree angles or "flat edges". Scissors, which come in several very expensive configurations and include ones with concave surfaces. These seem to be where a lot of mystery and a lot of money are in the sharpening business. Industrial equipment including things like paper cutters.

In this last case (industrial stuff) apparently the surface finish is super duper important and has to be not too polished or it doesn't work right. Heavy Handed (Martin) has some stories about that which are quite interesting. I've also seen demonstrations of sharpening industrial stuff that runs at super high speeds. Their procedure involves creating an edge, then polishing it through several stages. Then they cut the edge off to a specific edge flatness. So it's nice and polished, but it no longer comes to a point. Instead it comes to a flat spot of a specific width, which has been determined to not collapse under the great forces involved in these cuts, yet also cut the media that needs to be cut and do it cleanly.

I'm not trying to be contrary or outlandish. Just pointing out that there is a pretty wide variety of sharpening to be done in this world. If you really want to cover it all, it's going to be quite a work. Of course it could start with a lot and get added to over time. Or you could just cover a subset of common cutting tools.

You used the phrase "easily accessible". How do you plan to distribute this work? Are you planning on selling it, or doing this as more of a labor of love?

As a student of sharpening, I find this topic interesting for sure. :)

Brian.
This Is a labour of love. And in regards to covering everything... That's what I do. I run a sharpening business doing everything from Full custom folders to chef knives to garden tools to - you guessed it - lawnmower blades. You name it and I've probably sharpened, or CAN sharpen it. I've done work on industrial tools, worked with materials like tungsten carbide and ceramics (for blades in specialized jobs)... Long story short, If it has a blade, I can sharpen it. That's what I want to write about, Not necessarily how to sharpen any given thing, but moreso my philosophy and order of operations when it comes to sharpening.

for example,
choosing the edge angle
what grit to go to
what kind of polish
what kind of burr removal (if at all, some woodturning tools NEED a burr to work)

I have a few years teaching experience under my belt, and my goal with this book is that a 10 year old could pick it up, and given enough focus and practice, use the skills taught to sharpen any blade to perfection. I find that so many people get caught up in the elitism (me included, to be honest) when it comes to knives and sharpening, and it really does nothing to demystify a subject which, for all intents and purposes, is really quite simple on paper.
 
Last edited:
That sounds great. I would be very interested in a book like that. Of course I'm some guy who posts on a sharpening forum though.

Someone else here, who doesn't seem to post any more, once said something like "Welcome to the endless discussion of man's most simple tool." That's kind of how sharpening is. It's really basic at some level. But the details... so many details... get us all caught up.

Good luck with the book. I for one would like to hear some updates if you are inclined to share.

Thanks,

Brian.
 
That sounds great. I would be very interested in a book like that. Of course I'm some guy who posts on a sharpening forum though.

Someone else here, who doesn't seem to post any more, once said something like "Welcome to the endless discussion of man's most simple tool." That's kind of how sharpening is. It's really basic at some level. But the details... so many details... get us all caught up.

Good luck with the book. I for one would like to hear some updates if you are inclined to share.

Thanks,

Brian.
Thanks for the enthusiasm! Im planning to add details like the optimal angle for different tasks on different steels, as an example
 
Im planning to add details like the optimal angle for different tasks on different steels, as an example

I think that will require the establishment of some bona fides on your part as it's unlikely that your experience will be able to dictate what the "optimal" bevel angle is on various steels, at various hardness levels, for a number of activities and tasks etc etc etc

I've enjoyed many books and primers on sharpening and wish you the best with your project but it may help to rein in the scope somewhat.
 
If you end up needing any consultation regarding sharpening scythes, grass hooks, and hay knives feel free to tap me. :D
 
If you end up needing any consultation regarding sharpening scythes, grass hooks, and hay knives feel free to tap me. :D
Absolutely! What's the need for peening a scythe? is it to realign the edge?
I ask because I've seen people going straight from peening to cutting grass
 
Absolutely! What's the need for peening a scythe? is it to realign the edge?
I ask because I've seen people going straight from peening to cutting grass

Peening is only done on continental European style scythes, and is done to maintain a properly thin bevel. Generally it's best to still hone the edge after peening before getting back to work, but it's certainly possible to peen a blade to a sharp state. American, English, and Nordic pattern blades, by contrast, are much harder steel and are often of laminated construction. They're beveled by grinding, which is done much less frequently than peening (1-3 times per season as compared to every ~8 hours of use for peened blades) and they're ground on both sides so the apex lies properly in the middle of the blade's thickness, so it's comprised of the hard edge steel rather than the cladding layers of iron that give it toughness. Peening can be done in several different ways. The same goes for proper grinding methods. :)
 
Peening is only done on continental European style scythes, and is done to maintain a properly thin bevel. Generally it's best to still hone the edge after peening before getting back to work, but it's certainly possible to peen a blade to a sharp state. American, English, and Nordic pattern blades, by contrast, are much harder steel and are often of laminated construction. They're beveled by grinding, which is done much less frequently than peening (1-3 times per season as compared to every ~8 hours of use for peened blades) and they're ground on both sides so the apex lies properly in the middle of the blade's thickness, so it's comprised of the hard edge steel rather than the cladding layers of iron that give it toughness. Peening can be done in several different ways. The same goes for proper grinding methods. :)
We need to chat for sure, My expertise begins to leave when we move into farm equipment.
 
I think that will require the establishment of some bona fides on your part as it's unlikely that your experience will be able to dictate what the "optimal" bevel angle is on various steels, at various hardness levels, for a number of activities and tasks etc etc etc

I've enjoyed many books and primers on sharpening and wish you the best with your project but it may help to rein in the scope somewhat.
for sure. I am not going to write this purely from my own knowledge. That would be very misguided. I am going to ask for help from established members of the community, cliff comes to mind. I will write what I know then fill in the gaps with others' help.
 
Should be a huge hit in Labrador! :thumbsup:

:p (Just kidding. Good luck with it.)
 
Back
Top